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Originally posted by ballaratdragons
The theory behind the lock screws on the GS 12" was covered in another thread which I have been unable to find.
Now, the idea is to do as David said above. Geoff and one of our overseas members went into great detail to help me get mine just right.
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I just had a search for that thread as well without success. I searched on keywords I knew I used but the thread seems to have dissapeared. Its a shame too as Ken made some nice diagrams.
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What I am doing is against everything I have been taught and should slightly distort the image but it doesn't. (Maybe because I have the mirror clamps quite loose)
I don't recommend this method one bit, but it works a treat for me.
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Distortion of the cell may not affect the mirror depending how tight the cork pads are I imagine. If it works for you well and good Ken
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The 3 'locking' screws you mentioned ,unless you've a different setup I presume your talking about the 3 that hold the dustcap on, are'nt.
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By dustcap do you mean the metal plate covering the rear of the mirror cell ? Yes the lockscrews work against the surface of the metal plate.
The spring loaded collimation screws ( the larger ones ) adjust the angle of the mirror cell, and the lockscrews push against the underside of the mirror cell via the metal back plate.
Technique
Adjust the three larger collimation screws and then
very lightly seat the locking screws against the metal plate. If you then gradually tighten each lock screw in turn a little at a time working around in a circle, checking collimation as you go, you'll find that you can get it right and stay there.