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The theory behind the lock screws on the GS 12" was covered in another thread which I have been unable to find.
Now, the idea is to do as David said above. Geoff and one of our overseas members went into great detail to help me get mine just right.
<b>Contraversy Time!</b>
I did it this way for a week or two and found that it still went out of collimation easily. The cell did not wobble, rattle or move. It just kept going out! I decided to do the wrong thing and yet it works for me. I get collimation as close as I can using the spring screws, then I gently tighten the lock screws (as above) then I break all the rules: I use a screwdriver to adjust the lock screws to get collimation perfect. Since doing it this way I have not had to re-adjust collimation (1 month so far) and I get a much crisper focus on objects than I had previously.
What I am doing is against everything I have been taught and should slightly distort the image but it doesn't. (Maybe because I have the mirror clamps quite loose)
I don't recommend this method one bit, but it works a treat for me.
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