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I put a very small amount of engine oil on a paper towel and smear it on the threads so only a small amount is deposited. Works fine, no side effects.
Tak threads are the worst as they seem to be very close together and they bind easily.
Astrophysics threads are much better as they are almost slightly loose and tend not to bind.
The other tool that is handy is the rubber strap lid opener tool Bunnings sells.
It has a plastic handle and a rubber strap that forms a loop with one end fixed and the other end able to be pulled tight or loosened.
Its a non destructive way of undoing overly tightened threads.
Items like reducers, adapters can be overly tightened when you have a camera and filter wheel that have leverage if you turn them to tighten them. Sometimes I have put the filter wheel and camera back on and fixed it then spun slightly the other way to undo a tight adapter. The Bunnings tool though works well and you can even hold the say reducer in your hand or between your legs and apply the tool and it will undo it. A really stuck Tak item though will need quite a bit of force.
I reluctantly once had a $600 reducer stuck to an adapter and I had to put it in a vice to undo it. I thought I was going to destroy it but it survived.
As you say its not a nice experience.
So when you get something new then a small wipe of engine oil on a paper towel before it gets used is a good policy. I don't use grease but if it were applied sparingly like above then I don't see why that wouldn't work too. Just a very small amount as obviously you don't want to transfer it to optics when handling the item.
Some anodising seems to be very dry and high friction. Tak's for example. They are the worst.
I have never had an adverse effect from doing the above.
Greg.
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