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Yes, wooden pine box is best with mirror face down resting on four pine cleats (one per corner of box). There should be about 2-3mm gap between the sides of the mirror and side walls of the pine box for some 3-4mm cardboard spacers (box cardboard) as well as a similar amount between the back of the mirror and the inside of the lid. The side walls of the box should be 16mm thick and about 6-8mm more that the mirror thickness in width so this will determine the width of pine to buy. You can tweak the cleat thickness or the cardboard packing on the mirror back to suit available pine dimensions. The base and lid should be made of 6mm Masonite and nailed or screwed into place around the edges of the box both top and bottom (if nailed use small light grade nails that require little effort in hammering). You can easily remove these later.
DO NOT place anything between the primary face of the mirror and base lid of box. The cleats provide the spacing and there should be nothing else there to rub against the mirror face during transport.
Once the mirror is in the box with the edges of the primary surface face down and sealed (don't forget the cardboard) and the lid nailed down (nail the base before you put the mirror in), then tape the outside of the box across the middle and at right angles (to make a cross) all around with packaging tape to ensure the nail don't loosen, then wrap the whole box in a lot of bubble wrap, (larger bubbles) and place the whole thing in a larger cardboard carton filled with further packaging material (foam cornflakes I call it) or bubble pillows or more wrap to build up the inside walls of the carton. Seal box with packaging tape and it's ready to go.
My Astro-Optical 6" custom mirror came like this and I built a similar box for my 10" mirror. I still have the boxes in case I need to ship for re-aluminusing or moving. I think it is a good and well proven design as it is also mentioned in a mirror grinding book I have that I cannot locate at present for reference.
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