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Just to answer some of the random questions.
Use the camera you have with smallest pixel size and highest frame rate, NOT the camera with most pixels, you're c ropping away 99% them , so use a region of interest or smaller capture resolution to capture already cropped close to the planet, this lets the camera capture at best frame rate. Likewise exposure small and gain small if any, I use between 10ms and 30ms exposure and maybe a little gain to get histogram above 50% if needed and reduce both if above 70%. I capture around 100fps regularly with over 15,000 frames within a few minutes capture time. So lots of data to choose from to process.
Not sure about mono rgb, i do osc. But dont you need to refocus for each filter even in rgb?
Derotation with winjupos is technically always useful but it doesnt fix everything. I'd say 3min is your capture time limit from start to finish for data to make one photo. So if you can capture rgb with mono within 3min thats best, not 3min per filter unless you want a mono only shot with the contrast one particular filter gives. So go back to my first suggestion on capturing as many frames cropped within the timeframe.
3min is a good guide, not an exact rule. On mars 5min is ok usually when its not so close to us but for jupiter 3min is about it since there is so much surface detail going on its quick to blur. There is information online about working out the precise limit for your gear and target on a given night which is worth slogging through if you are measuring surface features but for most of us 3min is good. I find by sticking to that limit for all the big bright planets I get a 20-30gb ser file for each capture and I dont have to tweak settings for different targets, plus its easy to take a few such captures back to back for planets with less features and combine all the data if i want.
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