Quote:
Originally Posted by RickS
Looks promising, Colin. Once you get the scope dialed in you will be cooking with gas!
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It's now just down to improving star shapes are FWHM across the frame. Going to get some adapters so I can put a Nikon D810 on the back, it'll make seeing whats happening over the whole corrected imaging circle a lot easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slawomir
IMO the data looks great already Colin. And a beautiful scope too! Great to know that 3nm Astrodons work at F/3  |
One thing I have noticed going from an EQ6 to premium mount and now to a premium scope, as with you going to a Mach 1, even when things aren't working perfectly they still work well. When my EQ6 was having a bad day (gremlins), it just plain didn't work!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimmoW
Wow, thats a top shelf setup you have there now Colin! Good first light too.
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Thanks Simon. Once I get the collimation set, Official First Light will commence
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley
Something is shifting when you go on the other side of the meridian do you mean?
F3 would be touchy collimation. Tiny changes would be the go.
If you are using an OAG then the pick off mirror can easily create a big shadow. I had one on my RHA for a while until I raised the pick off prism and it went away! F3 means the light rays are at a steep angle and that will cause the prism to cast a larger shadow. Perhaps check this is not the case.
Greg.
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Nothing shifting, just that the top of the image is better than the bottom so once you go over meridian everything flips 180º. After stacking it helps star shapes all over the frame... to some extent.
Just waiting to hear what I need to touch. I've been told it isn't difficult to do but with just shy of 10 hex bolts at the aperture of various sizes, don't want to go eany meany manie mo
Also not using an OAG but I have noticed that the very steep light angles cause more "artefacts" on a sensor with micron lens' and no anti-reflection plate on sensor