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I live in Cairns and have done for the last 10 years.
We always stay at the Eco Lodge when we go to Chillagoe to do some star gazing. I went to Speewah camp grounds recently, very dark but surrounded by forest. There must be loads of places on the Tablelands, I can easily see the MW just by stepping outside at home (N. beaches suburbs).
Probably Lake Tinaroo (NP campsites dotted around the lake. We usually stay at Kauri Creek which has large open aspect but of course always the prospect of people with torches etc. but Kauri is family oriented unlike say Fong On Bay where the young hoons with speed boats camp for example)
Regarding Mareeba, I reckon Granite Gorge might be good, they have camping.
Kingfisher Park at Julatten, it's a birding campsite but there are playing fields next door - have sat on a plastic chair there in the pitch black taking photos of Barn Owl in hollow tree.
Lake Eacham Van Park is nice, again probably rainforest in the way but v.dark locally.
I haven't stayed there but there are a few stations that do camping eg Emu Creek (very popular during holidays), I think that is on the way to Chillagoe, there is Mont Albion Station too down by Herbeton way.
I'll try and think of more, it's something I've been thinking about too, like I say if you look at the darksitefinder.com site there is so much dark sky up here.
Not much light pollution, just the usual campers, cars headlights etc.
Hope that helps
Andy
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