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Hi Steven. I hope you've sorted out everything. I was going to suggest trying a full optical alignment. This process precedes collimation. A carpenters square, tape measure, straight edge, bamboo skewer and a pencil is needed. Using the square and straight edge, check that the optical tube sections ends are squared against the tube.
Place the top tube section upside down on a flat surface. Place the square against the tube and check for any variances other than the thickness of the end ring. Do this at various points around the tube. This is to see if the tube ends are seated square with the tube.
(Do the same with the bottom section but primary mirror facing up.)
Turn the top section right side up. Place the straight edge across the top of the tube above the spider vanes. Measure the distance from the spider vane to the straight edge. Using the skewer, place this on the spider vane with one end against the inner wall of the tube and mark the skewer where it sits above the screw which holds the secondary mirror. Rotate the skewer and check that each spider vane is the same distance.
Check each strut against the straight edge.
With the scope assembled, measure from the top edge of the secondary section to the top of the primary section at various points around the tube.
Just a couple of other things to try. Without the 1.25 adapter in the focuser, try looking through a 1.25 EP starting from right inside the focuser itself then gradually moving further away.
Check and see if the focuser is squared with the tube.
See if you can swap the secondary mirror over with another.
Apologies if you'd tried all this already and hope it does work out.
Cheers!
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