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Brian,
ISO80 isn't going to show anything. ISO3200 to 6400 is the usual range used.
Use 25mm wide open. Use RAW. Use 30 seconds. You will get some star elongation but its not really visible in usual sizes of image presentation. I don't know what the noise levels are of your camera but most modern cameras are reasonably noise free at ISO3200 and the better ones ISO6400. Colour noise is fairly easy to reduce in Lightroom or Photoshop later on.
Wide open your lens may display false colour where bright stars look magenta. If that is the case you can either process that out in Photoshop or Adobe Lightroom or stop it down a bit until that goes. That depends on the quality of the lens. Some lenses also display bad star distortions in the corners until stopped down. If its a fixed zoom to the camera chances are its not bad as its a small sensor and its been matched to that sensor. I have a Sony RX100 that is good wide open.
Use a tripod. Setting a timer delay is a good idea.
Turn noise reduction off and any stabilisation off.
Use auto white balance, do manual focusing you are unlikely to get a lock on auto focus but I suppose you could try on a bright star. I usually use magnified view on a bright star with a mirrorless and manual focus.
If you can't do that then try a few exposures and check the focus carefully in the electronic viewfinder after each shot until its spot on.
Once its all working you can also take multiple shots of the same scene and add them in Photoshop later. Say 4 or 5 shots at 30 seconds or even 20 seconds if you want to tighten up the stars but reduce the extra noise by stacking.
You can create a panorama by simply reframing to the next overlapping scene (overlap by about 40%) say 6 wide and 2 or 3 up to form a Milky Way bow type shot.
Micosoft ICE is a free stitching program that works. I use PT Gui Pro which is pretty fast and I am used to it which helps with software, using what you know.
Greg.
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