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I guess owning a truss-tube scope has an extra set of rules...
Prior to collimation...mark the top and bottom housing with a permanent marker where the trusses connect..eg..A to A..B to B..(use a white paper stick-on label on the paintwork first!)
I use a Chershire collimator first off then fine-tune with a laser..another trick with a laser is note where the beam strikes the primary mirror with the focuser fully in and out...if the beam shifts..then your focuser is loose or not squared in!..
If your EP holder in the focuser has the 'ol 2 screws..then secure the collimator in the same as you would your EP's..eg..right screw first..left screw last...The amount of gap play does make a diffrence!!
As for the locking screws for the primary mirror..it's a matter of choice..but you should only have to turn them until you feel resistance against the mirror cell.
Collimation does get easier the more you do it.
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