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Stefan just about any Cheshire will do the job, so don't spend alot on that. You will need a laser to align the focuser with the secondary centre spot, but you can actually get away with a fairly cheap narrow beam one like maybe the GSO one - but make sure the laser is properly collimated itself and not aiming all over the place when you rotate it on a target. I don't know if there is a collimation ring for the RC06 but certainly there is for the RC08 and 10. The collimation ring gives you the ability to adjust the alignment of the focuser to dead centre on the secondary, necessary for later secondary alignment. Your probably looking at $100 for the Collimation Ring and really GSO should equip each scope with one from the factory. People will chime in and tell you to replace the focuser but mine works fine with my DSLR. I believe the placement of the extension tubes and collimation ring determines how stiff the back end of the RC is going to be. I experimented with mine in various combinations and found that putting the extension tubes on first (from the rear of the scope, and then the collimation ring and the focuser mounted to that, gave me the stiffest structure. I found that collimation ring threads and bevel gave a better focuser lock than just the focuser on the extension tube.
Your scope maybe aligned pretty well out of the box, I'd suggest you put in on a mount and do a star test and see what you get before you touch anything. Pick a star field that has stars out to the corners, use a fairly wide angle EP, and infocus to the point the stars resemble donuts. If they are all perfectly round, and then out focus to pin point stars without tails other than the usual diffraction spikes - you may have a well setup scope. However, if they are oddly shaped in a corner of the field, or don't look like perfectly round donuts then you will need to go through the collimation routine.
Good luck, they can be frustrating until you understand what your doing.
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