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I was there last month...
...I rented a 4WD but as I picked it up they told me about the tracking device on the car to ensure I DID NOT GO UP, d'oh! So I went to the half way point twice and the road to the top was also closed due to bad weather. The visitors centre was good though I didn't think the guides were all that friendly and some of the other foreign tourists were less than well behaved.
In 1994 I went up with Pat from Mauna Kea Summit Tours. It was expensive but I had a ball and he looked after EVERYTHING.
I stayed in Hilo at the Hilo Naniloa hotel. I think Hilo is an interesting run down town. The resorts on the other side of the island are great but stunningly expensive. Check Trip adviser for reviews of the Naniloa.
Hawaii is a great place and you'll have a ball BUT be careful about trying to get to the top with the wrong vehicle. Go with Pat imo.
Cheers
Geoff
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