|
Honestly IMHO you can do darks at almost anytime. For uncooled DSLRs, people will argue that they need to be done when your shooting your subs but I don't agree with that, the marginal gains you get from duplicating the exact conditions of the subs are not worth chasing in most fairly quiet DSLRs (yes you do need to use the same ISO and sub exposure length). Just setup your intervalmeter (of BYEOS if you use that) and let it go with the lense cap on. I just set my camera on the table in the observatory and let it run by itself.
Build up a dark library on your laptop/pc that holds the darks for the ISO and sub lengths that you normally shoot. Once you have master darks for those values it make the process easier (at least I find it so).
Of course if you can cool your DSLR then darks become less important (but I am building a library of darks shot at my cooled setpoint of -10C, -15C etc) , but bias/offsets should still be done. As bias/offsets are taken at the fastest possible shutter speed of your camera, they can be done and then kept in the library for use at stacking time as well.
PS: Camera batteries will produce some heat, to minimise heat build-up use a AC/DC or a DC/DC adaptor in the camera so that your power is coming from outside the camera.
|