Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroID
Hey Russ, nice work. Now you've got me digging out my O III filter to have a play. As if I haven't got enough to learn already !!
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Cheers Brent! Have fun with the filter! The learning never seems to end!
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymo
Thor is nice, and the blend is intriguing.
raymo
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Thanks Raymo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akwestland
Thank Andrew.
these were taken on my 12" f4 newt which is on an eq8.
RGB subs were 70 seconds at iso 1600 and the OIII subs were 4 minutes @ iso 1600. if I could take longer subs more OIII would pop out of the area but the noise was too much i'm limited to 70 second exposures on rgb because of light pollution - I have ordered a light pollution filter which will allow an increase in the sub time (a cooled camera would increase the sub time even more).
the camera was a modified canon 600d. I think the total integration time was about an hour and 45 mins or so.
Thats a great amount of info that I am trying to digest, how does one measure the temp of the camera? I have been given a cooler box by a fantastic member on here, is it purely measured by the temp probe in the box or is there more to it? I have just bought myself a Nikon D5300, not specifically for this, which is better CCD or DSLR?
I use a program called Backyard Eos to acquire images on my laptop (it works with canon eos cameras). It gives a reading of the temperature that the camera records - i doubt it is 100% accurate but it is an indication nonetheless. I see now they have a version for Nikon cameras http://www.otelescope.com/index.php?...emium-edition/
A mono CCD will give the best results due to increased sensitivity and deep cooling. However there are added complications to the already steep learning curve especially processing and of course costs (filter wheel, filters). Great results are achievable on dslr's too but they generally a let down in hot weather. A cooled dslr can perform really well.
i use an off axis guider to guide the mount and have a RCCI coma corrector. i used to use a MPCC (coma corrector) with the OAG but to use a filter would have meant i would have to use a clip in filter (specialised for canon cameras) as the MPCC has a shorter spacing distance. i wanted a filter i could use on other systems (2"). I would recommend the RCCI over a MPCC as it allows greater flexibility in guiding and filter choices due to its greater spacing.
I am trying to understand all of this so that I will be prepared for when I start. Maybe even picking up the odd item as they become available via this forum.
I stacked the images in Deep Sky Stacker and processed the stack in photoshop. i did have some trouble blending the OIII to the rgb because the frames weren't that close. so ended up doing it in photoshop manually.
http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=132073
I have downloaded various programs and am "playing" with them to start getting a feel for it. I have a background in photography and a good knowledge of computers. Although I have only just bought my first real DSLR, others have been cheap point and click cameras.
if you are looking at getting a new system you won't need that much aperture an 8" newt on a HEQ5 or NEQ6 will give great results.
i hope that makes sense!
Cheers,
Russ
I have recently purchased a secondhand 200mm Newtonian F5 Skywatcher off here. I have not used it yet as I am sorting out what to mount it on. Like all others the budget comes in to play here. I am debating a little between piers and tripods.
Also, I live on a farm, the nearest town (Orbost) is about 15-20 minutes drive, so great dark skys, open paddocks with some trees to dodge. The down side to this is no local community to engage in the learning. All of it so far is on here and other forums/websites. I am trying to convince the good lady wife that we need to attend a star party, but distance is hard.
Again, thank you for your response, it is helping me form a picture (pun intended) of what is required.
Cheers
Andrew
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No worries Andrew
good luck with it.
things to me that sounds like you need to sort out:
firstly:
- mount. eg HEQ5 / NEQ6
- coma corrector (eg MPCC or RCCI - keeping in mind what guiding solution you plan to use as an OAG takes up space between the CC and camera).
secondly:
- Auto guiding solution: Off axis guider or a Guide scope (i'd recommend a OAG to avoid flexure - although this means you can't use a cooler box - guide scope packages can be cheaper).
- Guide camera (lodestar / QHY5L ii) - i think the QHY is cheaper and the same chip...
- cabling for your dslr
- focuser upgrade (eg moonlite)
thirdly:
- upgrading camera to a CCD or the like - after you've got the hang of everything image capture and processing and of course what the budget allows!
A star party is a great idea, i'm not sure exactly where you are based (Gippsland?) also be aware that the Mornington peninsula astronomical society has regular public open nights
http://www.mpas.asn.au/PVN.htm but there may be societies closer by.
Cheers
Russell