Quote:
Originally Posted by pmrid
Yep.
Both my DSLRs are in cooler boxes ATM and I don't want to disassemble them. So I had a try with my Canon S3 IS which has an internal temp sensor. It also has limited bulb settings and the max I could do is 60x15 secs subs. Still, I ran it for an hour with the camera sitting on but not screwed into the bar.
Bar temp fell pretty much in line with the data in the previous graph - down to 2.5 or so within 30 minutes and stabilised there.
The body of the DSLR must be well insulated - the internal temperature never went below 24 and climbed to 29 by the end of the sequence. As far as I could tell, the cooling of the bar had no appreciable impact on the internal temps of the camera. Perhaps if I had screwed it down so there was a positive pressure between bar and camera and some sort of metal-to-metal contact via the securing screw it might have made some difference. But I doubt it would have been significant. I think I can discard this experiment as a failure. I could always use it as a stubby cooler I suppose!!
Peter
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So much for bright ideas. The most successful is the copper finger. Stay tuned, mod #6 on the way, with an intriguing twist - which is classified - just in case another bright idea bites the dust.
I confess the bar works if you remove the plastic bottom cover and fit a metal shoe directly in contact with the camera chassis. Brutal, and I think the electronics should first be coated in PCB lacquer or some such thing. I do not recommend this approach. The camera and bar require insulation to minimize competition with surrounding air mass, if you do try it.
EDIT: Bar temp -13C
A fully controllable coldfinger with sensor de-icing, as posted some years ago (#5) has been the most successful of all my hairbrained attempts at cooling.