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Ralph, about $15 will get you a cheap intervalometer on ebay, which will
let you plan and execute as many subs of any length as you like. It plugs
into the same socket as a conventional shutter release cable.
Higher ISO equates to higher noise, so the lowest possible ISO in any given situation is always best. This is even more important in the warmer months, as noise increases dramatically with higher ambient temps.
Many serious imagers have cooled cameras to tackle the problem.
Darks are essential for any night sky imaging, but flats can come a little further down the track. If you are taking short subs [up to 30 secs or so],
enable the camera's high ISO and long exposure features, and the camera will automatically take a dark after each sub. A dark has to be of the same duration as the normal sub, so it does mean that the number of subs that you can get in a given time will be halved. If taking longer subs
too much imaging time would be wasted taking darks; better to take some darks separately yourself, so you would disable the noise reduction features in this case.
All the interesting things are frequently imaged, so initially I suggest
concentrating on getting your imaging technique up to the standard you require before worrying too much about what targets to select.
raymo
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