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There are two schools of thought and some very adamant opinions.
1. Take your darks after imaging at a similar temperature and exposure time to the light frames - create a super dark/master dark, which is an average of typical dark noise over the imaging period. This method increases the time for obtaining signal.
2. Use in camera reduction which is more accurate.
This method should produce better sub frames than applying an averaged dark and possibly less subs are required because SNR per image is better. Half as many doesn't add up in my mind and this is something I intend experimenting with, with my cooled DSLR at the next astro camp.
Need to do the maths.
Mixing the methods would mean combining one set of in-camera dark subtracted subs with post imaging average dark subtracted subs. That's OK, I guess.
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