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Now make sure to install not only the bolts but the springs that provide tension to make the adjustments to the primary. (pic 9)
Install all three bolts and three springs. Now the primary mirror cell is installed onto the rear assembly. (pic 10)
Now install the out casing (black painted shield). Make sure it fits into the slotted ring in the rear plate. (pic 11)
Next fit the truss back onto the rear assembly and shield. Look out for the slotted ring on the middle support plate. The shield fits into that. (pic 12) Screw all the bolts that hold the truss blocks and the dovetails back into position.
Now remove the secondary assembly from the old scope. Undo the collimation bolts first and then remove the centre bolts with a Phillips screw driver. (pic 13)
Install the secondary onto the truss in the reverse fashion to the removal from the old scope. (pic 14)
Now it is time to collimate the scope. You will need a takahashi collimation scope to perform this task. If you own one of these scopes it is best to have a collimation scope anyway. (pic 15). The trick with this is to roughly centre the primary by using the large screws. Then work on moving the secondary so that the centre spot is centred around the tak spot. Then go back to the primary and get that centred. This needs to be repeated several times until you have it all concentric. It should take you about 15-20 minutes at most. I recommend you take a look at Ken Crawfords site for a video explanation of the procedure.
Pic 16 shows a view through the tak scope of the secondary getting close to being centred.
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