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Hi,
I have a 10inch F4 and from my tests, there is significant difference to the 8inch and I sold my 8inchF4. mine is a home built serrurier similar to Brent's.
I would definitely go the 10inchF4 as the tube is not that long and coma can easily be corrected with the mpcc, and get the mpcc mark 3.
the speed of the F4 is what makes it worth it. you get so much in so less time.
8inch to 12inch F4 shows a very significant difference in details and 8inch to 10inch relatively minor but in my opinion and trials, worth it. the longer FL gets your targets a bit larger than the 8inch.
why do you want to guide with the SW80? I would keep it simple and get an off axis guider, saves so much of weight and your guiding will improve heaps as you wont have to contend with flexure that is common with the steel tubes and at f4. You do need a sensitive guide cam though. the qhy5L2-mono works very well.
Bintel claim 15kg for the 10inch F4 OTA with dovertail and rings.
I would suggest go with 10inch F4 if you are using an OAG, as you'll save weight on the SW80, or 8inch F4 if you are using the SW80 as the guidescope.
the neq6 should support the 10inchF4 with the SW80 but you'll be dealing with a fair bit of flexure.
if you do go F4, save up for a decent focuser. the moonlite's are very good, and are short profile, meaning you can reduce the width of the light cone at the focuser opening and reduce vignetting.
A good focuser is required as the focus zone for F4's is small and any focuser tilt shows up easily.
Lower profile focusers also allow for a smaller secondary as you can move the mirror down rather than up.
finally, get a cheshire for collimation. that's all you'll need.
cheers
Alistair
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