How to kill boredom when you are not building observatories.

[bloodhound31]

The answer to my boredom prayers, to keep me sane and creative.

Found a cool site called the 405th. It's very geeky and nerdy so it's right up my alley. These guys use scratch-building and Pepakura techniques to build 3D wearable armour. It could be just a helmet, or full-body complete with lighting, mini arc-reactors and energy weapons.

There's Stormtrooper helmets (Clone Trooper and the newer ones), Halo armour, Predator heads and much more. I'm thinking of making a collection of sci-fi helmets to adorn the observatory.

The cutting, folding and shaping is very fiddly, technical and requires a lot of concentration, patience and planing.

Once the paper/card is shaped, resin is applied to the outside to stiffen, then the inside is lined with fibreglass matt, sanded and trimmed.

The outside is then bogged with car-body-filler, sanded, shaped and cut in with fine details.

Lastly, it is primed, painted and clear-coated with high quality automotive paint for a movie-grade finish.

Humble beginnings with stunning results. (I've included someone else's pic of their attempt.) Here's where I am at so far. Just applied the first coat of resin to the outside. It looks a bit rough, but you just wait.

P.S. the old paper shuttle is one I made a couple of years ago. Need to dust it off and repair it to hang in the observatory, along with my paper Cassini and Galileo models.

Baz.

[sheeny]

I can see that being a time filler.

Al.

[bartman]

Thats wicked Baz!
I'm going to have a look at this site!
BTW why 'dust off' the shuttle?. It's been Moth Balled..... so the dust will give it some authenticity.......:thumbsup::rofl: :thumbsup::rofl:
Just kiddink.....
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

LOL Bart! :lol:

I warn you, the 405th forum is a strange beast. It's hard to get answers sometimes and often when you ask a question, rather than answer it you will get directed to stickys and FAQ's. If you are new, it can be difficult finding what you want. Patience and perseverance is the key.

[bloodhound31]

Reinforced the inside with thick fibreglass mat tonight and left it to cure overnight.

[Barrykgerdes]

What is boredom?

There are not enough hours in the day (or night) to do what I like to do.

I have so many hobbies that need to have my time spread about

This of course leaves no time for "chores" like painting the house, digging the garden, cutting the lawn etc. that "she" who must be obeyed believes is necessary.

Barry

[Astro_Bot]

You should consider joining the 501st Legion (http://501st.com.au/). It sounds like they're right up your alley. I'm not a member but I've met some of the guys - they're a good bunch and do a fair bit of charity work.

[bloodhound31]

You underestimate me Barry... ;) If I have an hour of a day (after I have done the, "chores") I get twitchy and need to have something creative to do.


Thanks mate, I'll have a look at that.

baz.

[bloodhound31]

Tonight's work. I was able to borrow a Dremel tool and some wonderful mini-cut-off disks and sanding wheels. Makes light work of this!

1. Fully fibreglassed, faceplate separated and eyes cut out.

2. Faceplate test-fit. Initial sanding begins.


3. I see potential here. Would make a great motorcycle helmet or downhill ski helmet yes?

[bloodhound31]

First layer of body-filler applied - roughing out the shape. Curing to rock-hard overnight ready for sanding tomorrow.

[bloodhound31]

First sanding and shaping layer of body-filler done, ready for the next layer. Got some edges to match up a little, but fitting together better than I expected.

[bloodhound31]

This mask has been bugging me and I've come to the decision to trash it and start again.

The problem is that I printed it off without the numbers, as I did not know about them at the time. Nor did I know that the lines indicate hill folds and valley folds.
This has resulted in torsion of both the faceplate AND the helmet, making it warped and uneven.

Plus, there are parts I would not bother with and parts I would not cut next time. I would also make the helmet and mask together as one, fibreglass and bondo, then cut the faceplate off after, to ensure perfect alignment.

Tony Stark is the extraordinary engineer and his suit should reflect that in it's precision. I can't live with a warped helmet.

In saying that, getting this far has been an AWESOME learning experience. I've never worked with car-body-filler before, but it's great stuff to work and shape. I can't wait to start again, knowing what I know now.

Baz.

[Astro_Bot]

There's a school of thought that the first run of anything significant should always be a prototype/learning experience, and the result put aside, never used, no matter what the personal attachment. The premise is that large endeavours are too complex to plan precisely and that inevitable changes, particularly in materials and manufacturing, will compromise quality unacceptably.

Large projects often entail not ony prototyping (and various associated development models and testing regimes) but also Production Testing and Low Rate Initial Production - all aimed at permitting unforeseen problems to be identified and rectified at the lowest reasonable cost.

[bloodhound31]

OK, starting again from scratch, this time scaled to fit AND with the edge ID printed on it, to help me align. Now I know which lines represent hill and valley folds, it is soooooo much simpler to assemble correctly instead of GUESSING!

[brian nordstrom]

:shrug: I went to the site and my Nortons antivirus blockede a " Root bot " attack straight away !!! scary stuff , enter at your own risk :question:.
Brian.

[Astro_Bot]

Which site (I mean the 405th or 501st, or other)?

[bloodhound31]

I run AVG free version and have done for years. Never had a virus or security problem since.

[brian nordstrom]

:) The 405th .
Brian.

[bloodhound31]

Using the edge ID numbers really makes a difference to the shape and overall appearance of this thing! Who'd have thought hey? Jaw and bottom half of faceplate assembled.

[ourkind]

Hi Barry!

Kudos on your determination and starting all over again, you can't rush perfection and I'm sure you'll get it right :thumbsup:

I also just took a look at the asignobservatory website and I look foward to visiting next time I'm down in Canberra.

[bloodhound31]

Thanks mate! You will be welcome to tour the observatory of course!

Baz.

[bloodhound31]

This helmet is exactly the same as my last attempt, but using the numbers and fold designators changes the shape and overall appearance of it dramatically.

[Trixie]

Wow that looks like fun. I had better not show my son that site just yet. He has already been experimenting with making Iron man armour but at six his skill set is a bit limited. That is the sort of thing which really gets him interested. Sadly it is hard to find the hours in the day to sit and help him with his various projects!

[bloodhound31]

It's a monster task Trix! I've been at it for hours!

Made some progress tonight. Only the top half of the faceplate to go.

[bloodhound31]

RIGHT! Second attempt at the MkIV helmet. This time it looks much better and has a well-matched and symmetrical shape. A couple more minor alignment adjustments and it's ready for a couple of coats of resin on the outside.

Some problems along the way with a few glues. Tarzan Grip worked well. One Superglue worked well and another Superglue would not stick to anything but my fingers. I ended up finishing it with standard PVA wood glue. A little slower to stick, but the trick was to use vary thin layers of it.

[bloodhound31]

1. This time I'm using temporary adjustable telescoping braces on the inside to help shape the helmet while the resin cures.


2. Temporary tabs fixed on the outside to hold shape and spacing while the resin cures.


3. Just about to start the first coat of resin. Comparing the new Pepakura attempt (left) with the first try. (Right.)

[bloodhound31]

602 views and 25 comments..... look at all those closet NERDS out there!!! :lol::lol::lol: :rofl::rofl::rofl:

[omegacrux]

I must admit I have been following your progress
I'm a closet nerd , at work I prtend to be a bogan sssh
It's cool , looks hard advanced origami , like it

David

[bloodhound31]

At least you are an honest nerd David. Does it feel good to finally come out of the closet mate? :rofl: :P

Baz.

[omegacrux]

It does feel good now I don't have to talk about footy and old commodore's

David

[bloodhound31]

YESSSS! I have set another one free!! Fly away and live now David! :lol:

My job here is done.

Baz.

[bloodhound31]

All shiny and wet with two coats of resin on the outside and one coat on the inside. Tomorrow it should be as stiff as a plank and ready for fibreglassing.

[bloodhound31]

1. First layer or Rondo (Resin mixed with Bondo) on the inside to stiffen the helmet and fill all the corners.

2. First layer of body-filler on the outside. (Partially done)

3. First layer done on the outside. Curing overnight. Sanding tomorrow.

[bloodhound31]

First layer of body-filler sanded - ready for second layer.

[ZeroID]

Blimey !! A lot more patience than I've got. Nice work ...

[bloodhound31]

Thanks Brent.

1. Second layer of body filler applied. Curing overnight. Shape looking a lot better now.

2. Face-off.

[bloodhound31]

Second layer of body-filler sanded and shaped. One coat of dark primer applied. Once dry, a light sand all over will reveal all the low spots for filling in the next layer.

Each layer of body-filler and subsequent sand makes it rounder and more symmetrical.

[omegacrux]

Starting to come together nicely
Would plaster make a good filler ?
Or is it too soft I suppose I will crack if there's any sideways movement

David

[bloodhound31]

Yep, too brittle.

[Vegeta]

WOW, thats a ripper of a mask!!! Nice work!!!

[ourkind]

Looking good!

[bloodhound31]

Ta mate.

Primer sanded back to reveal low spots. Ready for final (hopefully) coat of body filler to complete shaping and smoothing.

[bloodhound31]

Yeah I know, they are all starting to look the same. This is hopefully the third and final layer of body-filler, curing overnight and ready for final sanding tomorrow. Then the detailing starts and it really starts to look the part!

Sorry, this is a bit of a blurry one. Stuck with only a crappy phone-camera today. I was in a hurry....sue me. :P

[Tandum]

baz, do you have a job?

[bloodhound31]

Full time tree surgeon mate.

[bloodhound31]

Home from work - Too wet to build the observatory. To light to go inside the house. (Wasted daylight) Started fine-sanding and trimming edges etc. Now back to wedding-photo processing!! Busy life!

[bloodhound31]

Third sanding and some detailing. Made the cut lines to separate the face-plate. Coated with etch primer to reveal rough spots for fill and finishing.

[bloodhound31]

More sanding, more filling, a little more detailing. Built up the bottom lip a bit. Cut in a couple of join-lines. Primed again - it helps locate rough patches.

[multiweb]

Starting to look real smooth now. Pretty cool! :thumbsup:

[omegacrux]

Back from my sabbatical of book reading and documentarys
Looking good

David

[bloodhound31]

Thanks David. :thumbsup:

1.Building up the bottom lip and correcting some distortion caused by excessive sanding on one side of the chin. Starting to shape the crown recess and tidying the eye edges.

2. Added a little too much hardener to the mix, causing it to go off VERY quickly! Goes lumpy and gets very hard to work, spread and smooth. Will go over it with a thinner mix after it cures.

3. Looking more symmetrical. Time to sand it again.

[bloodhound31]

1. Shaping the chin and bottom lip. Cutting in seams.

2. Chin starting to shape up and look more tough, rigid and tech.

3. Ready for yet another sand.

4. Lookin cool.

[bloodhound31]

1. Seperated the face-plate and gave it a trim and tidy on the edges and inside. First spray of chrome to get a bit of an idea. More sanding on the outside to be done, with each coat getting smoother.

2. Faceplate back on. Contrast shot.

[Varangian]

When you're finished bury it in your backyard in order to spin out archaeologists in 2000 years.

I really like it, you should build the whole suit and try to power it:D

[bloodhound31]

Sounds like fun mate. :thumbsup:

Still some work to go, but starting to look the goods.

[bloodhound31]

Faceplate in the raised position.

[bloodhound31]

1. Found a nice fine woven fibreglass cloth in Bunnings for $17. Much better than the chopped-strand mat.

2. Comparison between chopped strand fibreglass mat and woven fibreglass cloth.

3. The finer cloth is easier to lay and cut to shape and size.

4. Resin applied to fibreglass cloth on the inside of the faceplate. Edges will be trimmed after curing overnight.

5. Fibreglass cloth and resin applied to layer the inside of the helmet. Edges will be trimmed after it has cured overnight.

[omegacrux]

That will firm it up nicely
Good job

David

[bloodhound31]

Yep, it's mega strong now.

1. Reinforcing the inside with fibreglass cloth and resin.

2. Before I trim the cured fibreglass edges off, a little filler to finish off shaping the helmet recess.

3. Got a curve on the cheek I'm not happy with. It's a little too smooth and round, so I've built it up a little to reshape it to be more angular and with a sharper corner.

4. Faceplate has had it's last application of bog. Very fine except on the cheek corners and a small flat spot on the top left forehead.

5. Scruffy lookin' Tony Stark.

[bloodhound31]

1. The weakest part of the helmet is the recess at the top-centre that centres the faceplate. I've already cracked it twice while sanding it. Solution - a piece of scrap brass plate.

2. Bent the brass plate to conform with the helmet contours.

3. laying fibreglass mat over the brass plate.

4 & 5. Fibreglass mat over brass plate resined and curing.

6. Shinier and shinier!

7. Faceplate off.

8. Faceplate on.

[ourkind]

Will yours have lights and sounds too? :lol:

Looks great by the way! Impatiently waiting to see more progress :thumbsup:

[bloodhound31]

I'm going to illuminate opaque lenses inside the eyes and motorise the faceplate.

[ourkind]

:prey2: Awesome!!!

[bloodhound31]

I knew there was a reason why I kept my old crappy first attempt at a helmet... TO TEST PAINT SCHEMES ON! :p

So, what do you think?

1. The Copper and Chrome?

2. Or..the Metallic Red and Chrome?

3. Here's the good helmet getting it's final preparation coats applied.

[multiweb]

Faceplate gold and helmet cherry red.

[omegacrux]

Can you do a mock up with red with gold faceplate
The red looks good on the helmet part

Dave

[bloodhound31]

I'll give it a crack and see how it looks. The colour I have there is not gold, it's copper - but it's close enough.

[bloodhound31]

Here you go....

[omegacrux]

Kawasaki racing green be nice just kidding
Copper looks good but its up to you

David

[ourkind]

+1

[Ric]

I reckon BMW blue and white ;)

[bloodhound31]

Decided to go for the Copper faceplate with the classic metallic red helmet. I think it was a good decision.

Here it is with the first coat applied.

[bloodhound31]

1. Three coats now. Think I might give it one more in the morning before clear-coating it, just to be sure!

2. You and I are going to get to know one another very well over the next few months while I build the rest of you!

[TrevorW]

Barry can I suggest scribing the joins a bit deeper and then run black marker pen in them before clear coating

[multiweb]

Yeah that's looking very cool now. So you're going for the whole body armour now? :)

[bloodhound31]

I'm not sure I want to risk it now that I've got it to this stage. Scribing deeper lines should have been done before painting if I was going to do it.



Thinking seriously about it yes. I'm 6'2" so I have the height to make it an imposing suit.

Final coats done, ready for clear coat. I still have to mask off the bottom lip and paint that copper too.

[bloodhound31]

Now onto the electronics...

1. Building on the cheap - desoldering the LED lights from the circuit-board of the head of an old torch.

2. Re-wiring each LED for use inside the helmet.

3. Cut-outs for the eyes. Lenses - old broken Oakley sunglasses. Surrounds - milk carton plastic covered in black electrical tape.

4. Lace mesh from an old gift decoration. Sandwiched between lens and plastic surround.

5. View from behind illuminated lens.

6. Bonding silicone to secure and seal the eye lenses in.

7. Front view of completed lens.

8. Test illumination with a single LED light. There will be two LEDs per eye.

[ourkind]

that's so cool !!!

[omegacrux]

Nice
It's come up well

David

[Ric]

Awesome Baz

That is looking fantastic.

[bloodhound31]

Thanks guys! It's been a LOT of fun!

Finally took the good camera into the shed...

Painted the bottom lip to match the faceplate.

and it all started from paper...

[bloodhound31]

AAARRRGGHHH!!! I just sprayed a clear coat over the top and it turns out it wasn't compatible. It reacted badly and now I have to sand it down and re-spray it.

[bloodhound31]

This mistake has provided an interesting side-benefit. I went over the helmet again with the red, only to find the red turning darker and darker. The lid on the can is a real metallic red, which is what the paint should be. Unexpectantly, where I sprayed the red over the gold lip, the metallic red is REALLY metallic! So, what I am doing now is experimenting. I have sprayed the whole helmet now with gold. I'll do a couple of layers to make the colour gold consistent all over then over-spray with the metallic red again. Should come up a treat. All I will have to do then is mask off around the lip again and spray the lip gold only.

Oh, and it turns out the gold and red are enamels, while the clear coat I bought is acrylic. Didn't see that....Lesson learned, pay attention to the fine print when buying paint. I'm no stranger to painting and I should have known better. Time for a self-administered uppercut.

[bloodhound31]

Well, I fixed the clear-coat incompatibility disaster. I sprayed the whole helmet with metallic copper, then put the metallic red over that. Huge difference and improvement.

Someone asked for a bit of a view from the inside looking out too.

[omegacrux]

Its come up a treat
What's next ? , a Cylon ( Battlestar Galactica is back on tv )
You hinted at the rest of the body that would take a lot of posts !

David

[ourkind]

Great job Baz! Looks so good!

[multiweb]

The blend looks great. Bottom lip should be gold though.

[bartman]

Awesome!
2 Months....still going strong!!!!!
Cheers
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

Thanks guys. Marc, read post #83 mate.:)

[multiweb]

ha... missed that. I only check the posts with pics :P

[bloodhound31]

All I had this afternoon was the phone camera so excuse the low quality of the images this time around.....

First, I had to cut a section out of the back of the helmet to allow my fat head through. I will hinge this in the centre and find some fasteners for the sides. Some guys have used powerful magnets, but I might look around for alternatives.

I spent about $5 at Bunnings hardware today to buy this soft foam rubber. Much softer than the foam mat some guys build suits from, but firm enough to support itself.

I made templates out of cardboard to fit inside the helmet in manageable sized pieces. Once I worked out the size and shape of the padding, I then traced it onto the rubber and cut it out.

I found gluing with the hot-glue was easiest to position the piece in place, then glue a small part of it, usually in the centre to hold it in place. Then it was just a matter of gluing the edges bit at a time.

I've left a little protruding past the edge of the helmet so the faceplate has an edge to seat on for a snug seal. The exposed textured rubber looks great in the cheek depressions.

[bloodhound31]

Padding is all in. The fit is nice and snug, but not uncomfortable or tight.

Hell yes I'm a strange one. :P

[multiweb]

:lol: That looks so cool. When you have the whole armour done I reckon you can go and do Iron Man paid gigs around Canberra. :thumbsup:

[bloodhound31]

Could be the go Marc. :thumbsup:

Moving on with the suit, I started the neck and collar today. Cutting out the card templates.

[omegacrux]

The suit is it the same build process as the helmet ?
It's going to take a while if it comes out like the helmet it will be nice !

David

[bloodhound31]

It should take me around a year. The helmet was pretty hard, being the first, but now I have the techniques down pat the rest should flow a bit smoother. The rest of the suit is built similar, but articulating parts will have to be hinged, jointed or elasticised to allow movement.

[multiweb]

I reckon you're better off velcroing the panels on a black suit. If it's an epic fail you can always fall back onto 'velcroman' :P

[ourkind]

My nephew turns 8 next July reckon you'll be ready!?!

[bloodhound31]

Possibly....

Pepakura assembly of neck and collar nearing completion.

[bloodhound31]

Ready for resin.

[bloodhound31]

When I started the helmet, I thought that's all I would build so I was prepared for a little risk in short-term toxicity. Now I've made the decision to build the whole suit and maybe more, I've upgraded mask from particulate to organic vapour and toxic gas filters.

1. Prep for resining.

2. Neck piece resined inside and out.

[bartman]

Awesome work there Barry!!!!

Talk about dedication!!!!!!!
Soon fiction might become fact!!!!!!
Nothing short of a possible seed for future robotic enterprises......
Terminator, I robot, Bicentenial man......or even Cylon.....ala Caprica, BSG etc......hehehhehehehehe

Bartman

[bloodhound31]

Not sure how bullet-proof fibreglass is.... :P

Today's work -

1. Mixed bog with resin to make a smooth paste. Painted it on thick on the inside to fill in all the little details that the fibreglass mat won't reach.

2. Preparing the woven fibreglass mat.

3. Fully resined inside and out, fully supported by fibreglass mat now. Hard as a rock.

[bloodhound31]

While waiting for the neck to cure overnight, I thought I'd get started on the chest and arc-reactor.

[bloodhound31]

That will do for tonight...time for some zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

[Ric]

LOL, that looks like a giant pair of reinforced Y-fronts. :D

[bloodhound31]

Well...I didn't want to brag... :P :lol:

[Logieberra]

Baz, you've got some truly amazing gifts! Awesome.

[bloodhound31]

Ta Logan. I guess if you are given a gift, you should honour the giver by using it hey? ;)

Here's the last few hours work...

1. Chest piece assembled. No fibreglassing until the matching back-piece is assembled and paired with it, or distortion could potentially ruin it.

2. Even though I carefully measured linear width of chest at it's widest point, it's good to confirm with a quick fit-up before going any further and wasting materials. really getting the hang of this Pepakura technique now.

[strongmanmike]

Ooooh S-E-X-Y! :evil2:

That's a project and a half you are taking on AND at the same time constructing an Observatory shrine in your front yard :eyepop:...mazing...

Mike

[bloodhound31]

I hope you are enjoying the build with me mate! Thanks!

Making progress on the spine and back. Sorry about the rubbish phone-camera snap...

[LewisM]

I am finding myself compelled to make a helmet of the newborn xeno fom Prometheus... anyone got "plans"?

[bloodhound31]

Join the 405th and ask around mate. :thumbsup:

[bloodhound31]

Back is progressing. Quite a difficult fold this one.

[bloodhound31]

Here's the torso chest and back fitted together.

[LewisM]

I take it this suit is to protect you from Drop Bears when you are doing your wildlife shoots?

[bloodhound31]

....and hoop snakes. :P

[bloodhound31]

One of the biggest things to check before going to the resin stage is to make sure the armour is symmetrical and shaped correctly. This is the fiddly stage. I found that lots of extra gluing of tiny paper tabs over areas that were weak helped tremendously.

1. Placing the armour over a mannequin. I borrowed a very small female torso, so I put a t-shirt on it then stuffed it with newspaper to bulk it out.

2. When the armour is spread to shape, I found the spine tended to collapse slightly so I wedged a strut in there temporarily to keep it spread the right distance.

3. A strut inside at identical points both sides helps shape the torso.

4. Once the armour is hung correctly, it's time to space the pieces. As another gentleman advised me, the chest and back don't actually meet up at the front, they just kind of float apart. More support will be underneath to connect them later. Until then, it's sticky tape to hang it in place.

5. In places where the paper or joining tab was too flimsy to support itself, I glued tiny card tabs to reinforce the joins.

6. Some final re-pinching of folds to correct and adjust shape and form before the resin stage. Once resined, there will be no turning back.

[bloodhound31]

The hardened neck and collar fitted over the mannequin helps shape the shoulders of the torso.

One complete coat of resin on the outside. Curing overnight.

[bartman]

Coming along nicely Barry!!!!
Like the tatts on your back. May I ask what it is /of ?
Cheers
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

Cybernetic warrior series of cartoons I drew up years ago.

[bartman]

Wildlife Photographer, Astronomer, Exo skeleton builder, Cartoon artist/writer..............what else/next??????:eyepop:

Man of many talents!
Impressed....
:thumbsup:
Bartman
PS and are there any links to your work (cartoons) online?

[bloodhound31]

I've actually been looking into the different methods, creams, lasers to remove them. Getting tired of them and being branded.

[bartman]

K fair enough( you are talking about the Tattoos right?)
Did you ever publish the cartoons?
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

Nope. Got a hard-copy portfolio kept for memento's sake. That's all.

[Ric]

A bit off topic Baz but forget the laser removal.

A mate used the laser method to remove a name on his arm, the scar looked so bad after it healed he got another tatt to cover that.

I've heard that the creams work but take a while.

Cheers

[bloodhound31]

Thanks Ric. I've been looking into the removal creams and they seem to take 6 to 12 months with everyday application, breaking down the inks to be absorbed into the body. From what I've seen on the comparisons, they look pretty effective. Cost is a couple of hundred dollars for a year's supply, but way cheaper than laser and by the looks of it, more effective with no chance of scarring. Now looking into the leading, reputable and most trusted brands.

Anyway, back to the shed for a bit to start laying fibreglass into the suit before the welder arrives this afternoon to do some more on the observatory. :D

Baz.

[bloodhound31]

1. Proportions all looking good. Bits fit other bits so that's encouraging. I must be doing something right....


2. Hinging the plate at the back of the helmet to swing open and allow my fat head in. Hinges are glues and screwed. I think I will also put a layer of fibreglass over them to completely embed them in the helmet shell.

[bloodhound31]

1. Making the hinges for the faceplate, starting with cardboard to experiment and make a template.

2. Tracing the cardboard templates onto scraps of aluminium.

3. Aluminium cut, shaped, drilled and pop-riveted together. After riveting them I loosened them up so they can freely swivel.

4. Showing where the hinge gets mounted inside the helmet shell.

5. Position of the faceplate with the hinges in the up position.

[bloodhound31]

1. The faceplate hinges need something for the liquid-nails to grip, so I drilled the back of them with multiple holes about 3/4 the way through the metal.

2. Gluing the hinges in place between helmet and faceplate.

[Osirisra]

I'm enjoying watching the progress of this awesome build :)

[bloodhound31]

Thanks mate!

I finally got the hinges all glued in with liquid nails. Works a treat!

[bartman]

Thoroughly Impressed!!!!
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

Cheers Bart.

Sitting at home with a busted back...what else can I do but cut, fold and glue in a comfy chair? I think I'll be needing a real suit to assist my ageing body!

Here's the last couple of day's work from the chair while my back heals. This project is GREAT for incapacitation and boredom!

1. Some people use a pen to score the fold lines, others use a pizza-cutter style wheel (miniature). I use the edge of an engineers steel ruler. It is sharp and straight. Hold the piece up to a light source so you can see the ruler behind the fold-line and run your thumb up the fold. Presto! Precise, sharp fold.

2. Chest and back-brace - front. This goes under the chest and back armour to provide support and lock the pieces together.

3. Back view

4. Collar plates: I ran out of 200gsm card-stock but I figured these are so simple and small, that they could support themselves as normal A4 printing paper until they are resined.

[bloodhound31]

Starting on the abdominal armour plates.

[bartman]

Not Iron Man Barry , its......
BIONIC BARRY !( BAZ):P
Might need to look at patenting this if it helps your back???:thumbsup:
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

You can help me from my wheelchair to my walking frame down to the patent office mate. :lol:

[bartman]

Happy to help Bionic Baz!:thumbsup:
Cheers:D
Bartman

[bloodhound31]

Abdominal armour assembled.

[bloodhound31]

Lower torso back armour plates assembled.

[bloodhound31]

Things have slowed a little due to having to spend time constructing the observatory (http://www.asignobservatoryii.com/observatoryconstruction.htm), but I made some late-night progress tonight.

Stomach and waist armour ready for resin.

[bloodhound31]

Just doing some minor improvements today. The fake screws I engraved into the helmet really didn't look good, so today I drilled and countersunk the helmet in those locations, then screwed in some brass screws. Looks heaps better.

[bloodhound31]

Busy night tonight. Four hours in the shed with a bunch of scraps, just like Mr Stark in a cave...

Thanks to Xrobots for the ideas, I found some equivalent gear in the $2 shop, plus some junk from my shed and put together an arc-reactor to mount in the chest of my suit.

[bloodhound31]

1. Rondo (car-body-filler mixed with fibreglass resin) slush casting on the inside of the pepakura paper armour.

2. Parts of the armour amassing in the shed.

3. Got to mount the battery pack for the eye-lights in the faceplate. Making a paper template first to be traced onto metal.

4. Metal battery-pack holder fabricated by hand and drilled to provide grip for liquid-nails on the inside of the faceplate.

5. Battery-pack holder liquid-nailed in place. Leaving for a few days to harden completely.

[TrevorW]

Do you have a day job ???? :question::D

[bloodhound31]

I do this at night.... :)

[TrevorW]

Way to much free time :D

Bit of a night owl are we ;)

[bloodhound31]

I wish I had more. I don't have enough.

Off to work early morning, get home late afternoon, straight outside to work on the observatory and as soon as it gets dark, into the shed to work on Iron Man. I often get to come home at lunch time too so I get some work in on the obs or Iron man then. Juggling a newborn baby, time with wife, socialising with friends and family as well as all that...who has time? That's why I usually stay up until around 3 or 4 am. It's the only time I actually get to myself to relax!

[TrevorW]

If I don't get my 8 hrs sleep I'm grumpy all day

Up for work 5:30-6:00 at work by 7:30-8:00 home 4:45pm usually, exercise maybe 1hr walk or bike ride 3-4 times a week. play with dogs (2) feed them, cook dinner most nights, clean up dishes etc, bit on computer catch up emails, IIS etc, watch maybe 2hrs TV usually a serial, watching BSG at moment, then bed by 10:00 - 10:30 most nights.

You are doing a great job on this :thumbsup:

[bloodhound31]

It's a good life isn't it Trev? Thanks mate.

Wiring in the lights for the eyes on the inside of the faceplate. Some wiring harness to organise and some reflector/shielding to reflect the light forward but shield my own eyes from direct light.

[bloodhound31]

1. Using the spring out of a pen soldered onto the wire and hot-glued to the inside of the faceplate, when the faceplate closes it contacts the bent-over spade connector glued inside the jaw.

2. Completed eye illumination rig. Now to put some shielding over them to dress it off and also reflect the light forward through the glass.

3. Faceplate closes, eyes light up!

[bloodhound31]

1. FINALLY!! The servo and cable kit arrived from Singapore. Only took 8 weeks...

2. Installing the first pull-cable to the inside hinge of the faceplate.

3. The pull-cable goes through a bent and shaped copper sleeve towards where the servo-motor will be installed in the chin cavity. Glued in with liquid-nails and left for a few days to go rock-hard before I put any kind of stress on it.

[bloodhound31]

Routing the copper tube and return-cable to the hinge on the opposite side of the faceplate.

[bloodhound31]

1. Installing the servo-motor in the chin space. First a fitted card tub is made then the resin is poured.

2. Installing the servo-motor in the chin space. Once the resin has hardened, the servo motor is dropped into place and screwed down.

3. Parts of the suit are starting to fit together really well now. Neck, shoulders, chest and back brace inside, chest, back, abdominals, rib and lumbar armour.

[bloodhound31]

As part of the whole suit currently under construction, the helmet has taken me a while, but I got the servo and cable working for the downward motion of the helmet's faceplate. Now to duplicate this for the upward motion.

Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Wb9q0Rv7_OM)

[LewisM]

Have you got the Stark goatee and mo happening yet? :)

Now, put some Estes rocket motors in the shoes and palms :lol:

[bloodhound31]

I did for a while.... but I just felt stoopid.... :P

If I ever go to a Comic Con or event worthy of wearing it, then I'll grow one before suiting up.

[bloodhound31]

1. The cable tube for pulling the faceplate up has too many curves in it, as well as lifting against gravity, compounded by pulling on the hinge from too far back in the helmet. All these things led to the servo being unable to lift the faceplate, even though it can lower it perfectly well.

2. To solve the problem, the cable tube was removed. Instead, I have placed an aluminium plate inside the helmet. The pull-cable will now be routed through steel eyelets screwed into the helmet and plate, right at the tip. This will achieve superior mechanical advantage to pull the faceplate up.

Trial and error is making the inside of the helmet look messy, but it will all be cleaned up and then lined when it's working properly.

3. To ensure the back, ribs and abdominal armour retain the correct size and shape while the slush-cast is poured inside, I test fit it over my waist, marked the contact points then wired it in place. Braces inside maintain shape while the resin cures and hardens.

[bloodhound31]

Today was all about getting the mid-section of the armour to fit. I fibreglassed the inside, then drew a line where I want to cut it for fitting. I used a couple of plastic wall-plugs wrapped in paper to make seating pins and poured resin mixed with car-body filler over them. I then cut them apart, pulled the cut wall-plugs out and installed new full-length ones. One end will be glued in, while the other end will serve as a guide-pin when getting dressed.

1. Wall-plugs covered in paper and tape. A block taped off to form a dam where the casting will be poured.

2. Cast poured

3. Cut the armour apart with a hacksaw, straight across the middle of the pins.

4. To get the pins out, I used a wood-screw, screwed it in part way then pulled out the plugs.

5. Now both halves fit together perfectly, lined up by the guide pins.

6. It fits! I might have to go for a run or two though, this mid-section is starting to getting a little bloated underneath... ;)

[bloodhound31]

The suit is now ready for the bench. Now that the waist is hardened, it's time to fit it inside the torso to begin hardening the torso in shape. While the fibreglass inside was curing, I modified the arc-reactor and fit it inside it's housing in the torso. I found a beautiful big glass lens out of an old overhead projector and it fits EXACTLY over the top of the arc-reactor, sealing it into the suit.

[bloodhound31]

I both love and hate the fact that I have to work out how this all fits together! There is NO instruction manual on how to do this, just a mish-mash of other peoples ideas and short-cuts. It's SO frustrating!!! What I am doing here is placing all the pieces where they need to be, then laying fibreglass mat on the inside wherever I can see exposed paper.

Layer by layer, working from the inside of the outside layers, they will all be stiffened to the right shape and all fit together.

[bloodhound31]

1. With the outer chest and back shell now fibreglassed inside, it's time to position the collar plates and back brace so I can fibreglass them in shape while they are inside.

2. Bracing the brace. The chest brace needs to be held up against the inside of the chest piece while the fibreglass cures.

3. Back brace in position inside the back shell. Nearly ready for coating the outside with car-body filler and starting the sanding, shaping and detailing process.

[bloodhound31]

Coming together...

[omegacrux]

Looking good
Still a long way to go !
I wondered if one of those 3d printers could of made some of the parts ? ,

David

[bloodhound31]

That would be awesome!

[omegacrux]

Yeah small parts like the joints of the fingers , feet , ankles , shoulder
and it could be made in the correct colour to start !
Matt and gloss black stealth.

David

[bloodhound31]

Here's a quick video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7-5XcLCRTk) of the next process beginning.


1. Starting to shape the outside of the chest now. First layer of car-body-filler applied in a moderate, yet controlled layer. I mix no more than three teaspoons of filler with a pea-sized amount of hardener at a time to prevent premature curing before I've finished working it. Three is actually pushing it.

2. The waist is fitted inside the chest to keep it's shape while the filler is applied. I'll separate the two later to finish them.

3. Already, with the first sand-back of the rough coat, a very thin re-application of filler is making it look the goods!

[bloodhound31]

1. I've found that a very light spray of colour (and I mean light), can help in the sanding process to clearly identify low-spots. The downside is that if you spray too heavy, the paint can very quickly clog your sandpaper.

2. Rough filler application continues around the left side.

3. Now getting a bit of an idea of symmetry for adjustment.

[bloodhound31]

Not satisfied with my first arc reactor, I am constructing a new one from bits and pieces of other ideas.

Here's a quick tutorial video on it.

http://youtu.be/szoKJt73Voc

[Ric]

That suit is starting to look so cool Baz.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

[bloodhound31]

Thanks Ric! Me either mate!

I've still been tinkering around with theis arc reactor. Finally, I think I have come up with one I am happy with that is bright enough to be seen in daylight.

Video of the new one here. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3YBL9agPLU)

[bloodhound31]

The sanding continues.

[bloodhound31]

Night-time project - Iron Man's arms. preparing to cut all the parts out of 23 sheets of 200gsm card-stock per arm, before folding, gluing and hardening.

[LewisM]

Have you got RSI or carpal tunnel in your scissor fingers yet? :)

[bloodhound31]

Not yet mate.. workin' on it.. ;)

Here's over 8 hours work last night and today. Upper arm/bicep and shoulder-bells for right arm constructed from card-stock ready for resin hardening. Fits my arm nicely.

[bloodhound31]

Right arm assembled, ready for hardening with resin.

[bloodhound31]

Trial fit. Looking alright so far....

[bloodhound31]

1. Had a friend come over yesterday. I bogged up the torso while he applied resin to all the arm components. Today I filled each piece with a 4:1 slush-mix of car-body-filler and fibreglass resin. Rock solid on the inside now, ready for fibreglass matt on the inside then filler on the outside for sanding and detailing.

2. Checking for proportions, this thing is looking MEEEAANNN! Can't wait to put it on!

[bloodhound31]

Seems someone was spying on my top-secret project with an iPhone..... ;)

[acropolite]

You're certainly putting in the hours Baz, 3-4 am finishes, super-human effort, makes me tired just thinking about it.

Looking forward to seeing the completed suit and of course the first test flight..... it is going to fly isn't it..:P

[LewisM]

I still NEED to buy a Xenomorph suit... even the wife thought it brilliant...

Go for a walk on the walking tracks around here when the joggers come out at evening. Either hide in the bushes, or actually jog along in it... be an absolute HOOT! :) Even put jogging shorts and a sweat band on :)

Not sure how long before the police would be called, and may get pepper sprayed :) I could always hiss at them back or spit acid LOL

[Ric]

I hope your not going to get kidnapped and locked in a cave somewhere. :lol:

[bloodhound31]

I think I have a trampoline out the back.... :D

[bloodhound31]

Fitting finished pieces together is proving quite difficult. The pepakura files show you how to make the pieces, but not how to fit them together.

I've now filled each arm-piece with slush-cast, but not yet reinforced them with fibreglass mat. I wanted to check for fit first.

I put the shoulder bell on, upper arm, forearm and wrist with the elbow pivot plate in between. Bent my elbow and promptly broke the pivot plate. I think I might make one (temporary template) out of cardboard, fit it and get it working, then make one out of aluminium plate.

It fits well though. Nice and snug with just a little room for padding inside.

[bloodhound31]

Just having some fun with the phone camera.

[bloodhound31]

Got the left arm assembled and started work on the gauntlets.

[Kunama]

Seeing this project first hand and seeing the amount of work and detail that you have poured into it, Barry ............ nothing short of amazing

:eyepop::eyepop::eyepop::eyepop:

[LewisM]

I can see Barry at ll the Comicons now, picking up Furrbies and Anime girls... what a life ;)

Like I said, I need a Xenomorph suit, but one big enough that looks like the Xeno has been eating a lot of Colonial Marines :)

[bloodhound31]

Thanks mate. I only wish I had more time to work on it. A couple of hours here and there in a month is not much.



I see McHappy day in the drive thru. I see childrens hospital wards. The kids are going to go beserk! With any luck, the suit will brighten some lives in that regard.

[LewisM]

Even better!

[bloodhound31]

The wee hours of the night when everyone else goes to bed is my time. My time to relax and be nerdy. I got the left hand fully assembled tonight and this morning. The good camera is out in the observatory and it's too darned cold to go out and get it, so a phone-camera shot it is.....

[bloodhound31]

Time for some creative photography.

I set-up the work so far in my studio and prepared the lighting, height, distance etc. I then donned what I could and played with the result in Photoshop to bring in some colour that I'm not yet ready to paint on.

It's good to just get a little bit of an idea of where I am headed with the suit. It's also good to see it all together so I can check proportions etc.

1. Setting up studio lighting.

2. All the bits taped together in position.

3. Fun with Photoshop!

[Stardrifter_WA]

Nice job Bloodhound. It has been an interesting journey. You are quite talented.

Cheers Peter

[multiweb]

Cool - not long now. :thumbsup:

[Ric]

Awesome Baz

It's coming together wonderfully.

[TrevorW]

Tony Stark look alike

[multiweb]

Have you worked out how you're gonna get in and out? There's no way you're going to slip into anything. That's gotta be cut in halves like clam shells right? Even the hands. :question:

[bloodhound31]

Different parts are split, dowelled, earth magnets, velcro, buckles etc.

To get the whole suit on is typically a two-man job that takes around 30 to 40 minutes.

[multiweb]

:lol: You need a Jarvis.

[bloodhound31]

This much is true.....

[bloodhound31]

Got busy building the cod-piece.

1 Front

2 Back

[bloodhound31]

Something I should have done in the very beginning -

MAKE A TAPE DUMMY!

Fitting, modifying and adjusting the suit needs to be done accurately and doing it on my own body is darned near impossible.

With a tape dummy to my exact proportions, I can build and modify the whole suit on it and have it all fit together exactly, being sure that it will fit me when done.

I watched some U-tube tutorials by a guy called STEALTH on how to make this.

First a supporting frame has to be made out of PVC pipe. Then it's just a matter of putting on some thin clothes that you don't mind cutting up, tape up the sleeves, ankles and waist then get an assistant to wrap you up like a mummy in PVC Duct tape.

I couldn't believe how good it made my back feel... I might have to tape up my back every day before a start swinging the chainsaw at work!

Once covered from ankle to neck, then it's a matter of the assistant cutting the silver suit off - just enough to wriggle out of it, which can be slow and tedious, but taking your time is key.

Next insert the skeleton support and start to tape up the cuts, leaving the torso open until last. Stuff the whole suit with newspaper, rags, sheets, foam or whatever you have and pack it right out. The tape won't stretch beyond how it was while you were wearing it, so your form is retained.

I've run out of tape (used three rolls of 30 metres) so I'll have to pick up another roll tomorrow and stuff the suit as soon as possible.

This is going down as one of the top few weirdest things I've done.....

[Ric]

"Anti swoon safety square" :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :thumbsup:

That's a classic Baz.

[Kunama]

Just fell off my chair ................ are you sure this is the weirdest thing you've ever done Baz ?????

B&D ................................... ...................... If I had known you wanted to do this I could have loaned you a wetsuit and a couple of old bean bags for fill or my Drysuit which can sealed and inflated!

[bloodhound31]

No no.. I said, "One of the wierdest...." ;)

You'd never get your wetsuit back mate. It's going to get covered in paint, fibreglass and all sorts....

[Kunama]

All you need now is a can of Ramset Fomofill, spray it in through the cuffs etc and hey presto !

[bloodhound31]

Stuffed it with shopping bags and the yellow pages.

Tape dummy complete with some of the armour mounted on it.

[LewisM]

Looks like a Mercury programme spacesuit :)

You are a talented man Barry - from a perfect observatory to this time consuming marathon effort! You wife must be either VERY tolerant/patient, or prefers you out of the house :) ;)

[bloodhound31]

On the grounds I may incriminate myself...... no comment on the wife's behalf.... ;)

Here's one hip-pod I finished pepping tonight.

[bloodhound31]

Left thigh work in progress.

[TrevorW]

Maybe you should go work for the prop department of a movie studio, send details of this along in your resume

[bloodhound31]

Hook me up bro! :nerd:

[bloodhound31]

Left thigh assembled. This one was a little more difficult than I expected. For such a large piece it is made of an incredible amount of small parts. Very fiddly cutting and folding on this one.

This is the first part I've made that came with braces to go inside it for shaping. This way I can harden it then cut the braces out and it will retain the correct shape.

I tried it on my leg and it fits perfectly, even allowing for thick and loose tracksuit pants, later to be replaced by bicycle long-johns and the padding inside the armour.

[bloodhound31]

I just laid the cod on the floor with the thigh under it and hip-pod attached to check for scale. Looks ok so far.

[bloodhound31]

Shin assembled.

[bloodhound31]

Checking for fit. By the time I get the inside fibreglassed and padded, then the undersuit - there won't be much room left in there. Should be a snug fit.

[bloodhound31]

I spent a few hours immersed in toxic organic fumes today in the shed, while sleet and snow outside kept the resin temperatures low.

I painted the inside and outside of thigh and shin with resin, then bit at a time - poured in the slush-cast.

One thing I would do in future, is tape the knee joint together before doing anything. I was lucky that the slush-cast was still a bit pliable so I could bend and squeeze the knee together then tape them in place while it sets properly. Before I line the inside with fibreglass matt, I will do the same again.

[LewisM]

This thread will surpass the EQ8 thread... hopefully :)

[bloodhound31]

EQ8 thread?

[LewisM]

Equipment forum - you can't miss it :)

[bloodhound31]

Ah. Thanks for that. I'm saving up to buy an EQ8. What a coincidence.

[bloodhound31]

Now the inside is slush-cast and the knee is taped tight into position, today I started laying in the fibreglass mat. Thigh and ankle flaps done.

I also found a broken headlight and thought the reflector inside would be great in the chest behind the arc-reactor LED's. I'll trim it to shape and see how it looks.

[bloodhound31]

I started working on the headlight reflector today to go behind the front face of the arc reactor. There looks to be a 50/50 chance I might like it or throw it away.

Gave the collar plates another application of filler, sanded than painted. I think I'll keep going until they are smoother, but they are looking ok so far. Getting it made is easy. Getting it perfect.... well that's another story. It's harder than you might think.

I've been having trouble articulating the elbow joint. It has broken already in two places. Fibreglass is hard, but also brittle. Now I've fabricated some reinforcing aluminium bar to join the upper and lower arm. It's a lot of fiddling about.

[bloodhound31]

It's been a while since I've had any time to work on the suit, but today I had a little time to put all I've done so far together on the tape dummy to see how it all sits.

I have some major adjustments to do on the waist/cod piece. I'm thinking of cutting the rigid sides off the waist/abs and replacing them with roam rubber. For the cod, all I need to do is cut and extend it slightly to give it a bit more diameter around the hips until the hip-pods are vertical.

At least it's still in the paper stage so that's not difficult.

[bloodhound31]

I got nearly a whole day to myself today and with no observatory to build anymore, it was off to the workshop with me!!!

One of the problems I've had with the suit is in the scaling and fitting. The suit is not anatomically correct for a human being, so even if you get the right height and width, some parts just narrow down far too much.

The waist is as such.

The rigid sides that go from lumbar armour around to abdominal armour have been sitting very uncomfortably over my hips and are about 2 inches in diameter too small so it's very tight.

To solve this, I cut the rigid sides off and replaced them with foam rubber mat.

Once I got that done I did a quick test fit. Now that's done I can move onto the cod piece and widen that around the waist too.

[bloodhound31]

Lots of concurrent bits to do while waiting for the filler to set on other parts.

1. The internal chest/back brace only needs filling and sanding where it shows so I'm not wasting any more bog where it doesn't need it. I will, however, put another layer of fibreglass matt on the inside to make it as rigid as I can.
2. Where I have used foam around the waist, today I used a wood-burning soldering iron to melt in the joints between the rib plates. I placed a big elastic band around the whole piece to see if I can pre-shape it a bit before I put some heat into it later.
3. Getting some more sanding and detailing done on the chest/back. The back is very detailed and has a lot of raised and sunken sections to negotiate with body-filler and the sanding block.
4. Finally got onto a finishing sand of the abdominal plates so I could give it a paint. The ankle and achilles control surfaces are also on the painting block.

[bloodhound31]

Got into some serious finishing today. I bought a can of paint that had a GOLD lid, but the colour label said ORANGE. I asked the paint salesman which was correct and he said the colour of the lid was correct.

Looks like he was wrong.

[bloodhound31]

FINALLY!! I found a gold paint that satisfies!

http://youtu.be/qnp44YTjtiE

[bloodhound31]

Now I've got the colours right, I've sanded down the helmet again to prepare for the colour upgrade. Before I do that, I want to improve the faceplate hinge animatronics. I visited an engineer friend of mine and he gave me a solve, but it's something that needs to be done in a machine shop with precision lathing and milling.

Whilst that's great, it departs from the theme of being achievable in the average blokes shed, so I am opting for a solve of my own, repositioning my servo motor and using an aluminium push-rod.

Until then, I'm going to hold off re-painting the helmet.

[bloodhound31]

Here's the idea constructed in some cardboard to see if it's going to work. I've located the point of mechanical advantage, done the calculations on the servo's torque and load to move. This might actually work!

There's just enough room along the jaw to fit the servo sideways but I'll have to put something between the armature and my cheek, lest I rip out a few of my designer facial hairs.....

[bloodhound31]

Fabricated a push-rod from some aluminium round bar. Servo push-pulls it fine. It's a bit squeezy in there so I bent the bar to contour my cheek a bit better.

[bloodhound31]

Got a bit done this afternoon. The internal chest/back-brace needed to be filled and sanded where it shows under the suit.

I also laid a second layer of fibreglass inside this one to give it extra strength/stiffness.

Here's a quick test-fit now that it's been shaped. I've traced a pencil line on it so I can take it out, give it a hit with spray-putty then a final sand before painting.

[bloodhound31]

I got a few hours over the last couple of days so I got a bit done.

I'm still running into troubles with paint. I found the gold I am happy with and thought a clear coat over the top to protect it would be good. Today I sprayed an acrylic clear coat over the gold and it turned it a dull gold almost brown. GAHHHH! :mad2:

Anyway, back to the drawing board with paint I guess. I could just leave the gold unprotected, but it means it will wear quicker.

Once I tested it all for fit and look, I have made a bit more progress on shaping the back. This is probably the hardest part of the suit as there are so many recesses. Hard to get sandpaper in there.

1. Undercoating the chest/back-brace with gold

2. Overcoating with the anodised red. (only the smoothed areas will show outside the suit)

3. Paint selection

4. Clear over gold on the right. Looks crap.

5. Looks good together

6. Continuing on the back

[bloodhound31]

I buffed and polished the collar plate with the clear lacquer on it. (The one on the left) It makes it highly glossy, but still hasn't restored the original shine of the gold paint underneath.

Meanwhile, I've been tinkering with the faceplate mechanism. I built a dam out of tape, wrapped the servo in paper and poured a rondo mix in to harden around the motor. The mechanism works now, with a bit of tweaking/tidying to go to get it smooth. I'll put a short video on you-tube once I'm happy with it.

[bloodhound31]

Faceplate mechanism finally working!

Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HaBs2XUU1w8)






.

[omegacrux]

Cool
It's coming along nice
I take it you didn't want to give the suit a 'distressed' or battle worn look ?

David

[bloodhound31]

No. I want to keep it straight out of production looking. The battle worn look will come naturally through wear and tear.

[bloodhound31]

Here's tonight's work.

Eyes AGAIN. I acquired a sheet of thick perspex in opaque white so I cut the eye shapes and put them in the oven until they were soft enough to bend and contour inside the helmet.

Next, I found some hex-pattern steel mesh on the front of some old speakers. I cut them to shape for the eyes too. The vision through them is pretty good. If I do use the perspex I will glue them in with a gap at the bottom to see through. Otherwise I might find some good LED's to put in there on their own instead.

Glued them in with hot glue, taped them up and painted the whole helmet in the shiny gold acrylic. Once that's dry, I'll mask off the faceplate and lip then paint the rest of the helmet the anodised red over the gold. Should come up pretty stunning.

[bloodhound31]

Got a bit of painting and detailing done today.

[multiweb]

That looks cool. Are the eyes going to light up?

[bloodhound31]

yep! :D

[LewisM]

That "anodising in a can" lacquer is great stuff - I use it not only to colour my custom made adapters for AP, but I also use it to make red torches - I find 3 coats over the lens is sufficient to give a nice medium-dim red.

[bloodhound31]

Yes it's very nice stuff, particularly when sprayed over the gold.

[bloodhound31]

Just for fun....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48NI9wwdGpY

[multiweb]

:lol: So that's where it went. :)

[bloodhound31]

I know! Getting flash now! Using state-of-the-art Windows Movie Maker and all! :rofl:

Everyone else who does these suits puts the same Black Sabbath, "I am Iron Man" music to it.... Ugh..

[bloodhound31]

I've been working my dodgy electrical skills for a couple of days getting in these 180 Lumen LEDs behind some opaque perspex. Vision is limited, but I can still see what's in front of me.

The lights have kill switches inside the helmet, as well as contacts on the faceplate to cheek that activate the eyes once the faceplate is down.

Still having problems with the faceplate mechanism stripping the plastic gear on the servo though. I feel some superglue is needed....

I'm ready for the padding now.

[multiweb]

Pretty cool. #3 bada$$ pose is right on the money :lol:

[bloodhound31]

Thanks Marc. :thumbsup:

[strongmanmike]

So, once this is finished Barry are you going to do kids parties?...the ones you don't scare will love it :thumbsup:

Mike