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jjjnettie
28-03-2012, 01:22 PM
Time lapses are so much fun to create and even at their most basic they can be very impressive.
So here are some pointers to get you started.

First of all you need a camera. duhhh!! It can be a either a DSLR or a point and shoot.
For night time work you will need to be able to take long exposures. Most cameras will take 15 - 30 seconds shots without having to throw a remote timer into the works. I'll come back to that later.

Second, you will need a tripod. This is essential for keeping the camera in exactly the same position for the entire sequence. If the camera moves just a few millimetres it will give the time lapse a jerkiness that isn't very appealing.
It's best to practice in the day time before taking up a night time challenge. A time lapse of clouds crossing the sky is ideal.

So, let's get started.

1. Choose where you will shoot from. If the day is breezy try for a sheltered position so the wind won't buffett your camera strap around and ruin any of the shots. ( tie down the camera strap with velcro if you have to )

2. A nice wide lens is best. I've used the 18-55mm kit lens @ 18mm to good effect. For a point and shoot, don't zoom in.

3. Don't forget to fully charge your batteries!!!

4. Frame your shot to suit. Make sure the Sun won't move into the field of view during the session.

5. Set your camera to Manual Mode. Take some test shots to make sure they won't be over or under exposed.
On a sunny day try ISO 100, F6, exp 1/300.
Experiment with the settings.

6. You will need to be able to time your intervals between your images. If you're shooting clouds scudding, an interval of 10 seconds will probably suit.

With a DSLR you can use a digital remote timer to set the interval and number of shots, so you can just click the Go button and not have to do
anything else until the run is finished.

If you have just a basic shutter release you will need to manually time the interval and press the shutter release button for each exposure.

Some form of count down timer is advised to make sure of the accuracy of your interval between the shots. Most phones have a timer function you can utilise. :)

If you don't have either of these, you will have to go fully manual. The biggest concern here is camera shake from pressing the shutter release button. To avoid that you will have to set your inbuilt camera timer to 2 seconds. That will give the camera time to settle before taking the photo. Again, some form of count down timer will be needed to accurately time the interval between shots.

7. Capture your sequence. Take around 50 shots for this trial run.

8. Processing.
Download your photos to your computer. You will need to resize them. I use Image Resizer for Windows (freebie download) . Selecting all the photos at once, right click and select Image Resize and Medium.

We will use "Startrails" (another freebie) to create the time lapse.
Simply open the program.
File - Open Images
Build - Video
A window will come up, select the size you want the video to be and the frame rate ( 15 fps is pretty good but experiment to see what suits you)

Choose where you wish the final video to be placed. I generally choose Desktop, so I don't have to dig into folders to find it. :) Click ok.

Now minimise the program, because hiding behind it is another small window where you choose if you wish to compress the video to a smaller size. I don't generally use this function. But again, experiment if you wish.

And there you have it, you're first Time Lapse, done. :D

The photo shows 3 types of shutter releases.
The first is a Remote Control that activate an LCD Timer Battery Grip for a DSLR.
The second is a basic Shutter Release for a DSLR.
The third is an LCD Timer Remote.

jjjnettie
28-03-2012, 01:22 PM
Making night time Time Lapses is a bit more complicated.

Focus - super sharp focus isn't necessarily what you are after. Having your stars ever so slightly out of focus will make them stand out more in the final video.
Swing your camera over to a bright star, a planet or the Moon to get focus. You will only frustrate yourself if you try to focus on fainter stars.

Exposure time - Point and shoot cameras generally only go up to 15 second exposures. To make the most of that time, set your ISO as high as you can (keeping in mind that the higher the ISO the more noise you will have in the pictures ) and your F stop as low as it will go.

DSLR's without remote timers or shutter releases are the same. You have only 30 seconds to capture as much light as you can so ISO 1600 - 3200 and a low F stop are necessary.
Hooking up a Digital Timer Remote to your DSLR is ideal for this sort of work. Set your camera to "Bulb" then set your timer exposure to around 1 minute (do a test shot to make sure there isn't too much star trailing ) and again, ISO 1600 - 3200 and a low F stop.

Interval - For night time work go with an interval of 1 minute between shots, it will give a smoother final video than say a 4 minute inteval.
Use your Digital Timer Remote or do this manually as explained previously.
If you aren't using a Timer Remote, don't forget to set your cameras built in timer to 2 seconds to prevent camera shake. :)

It's not unusual for dew to start to form on the lens during the course of the night. Be mindful and check from time to time. A short blow of warm air from a hair dryer during the interval time is all that is needed.


You can process your night time shots the same way as you did the day time ones. :)

I hope this was comprehensible. I tried to keep it as basic as possible. If you have any question please ask.

Shark Bait
28-03-2012, 02:27 PM
Thanks for the info JJJ. Very detailed. I will have a go at this when I can find a suitable setting.

JB80
28-03-2012, 05:53 PM
Thanks for the info.:)

Is this using startrails.de?
I have never been able to get that video option to work for me and I know others haven't either.

jjjnettie
28-03-2012, 06:00 PM
Jarrod, that's the program.
Note where I said you have to minimise the program to access that last pop up window. That may be where things go pear shaped for those that have tried using Startrails for their time lapses.

JB80
28-03-2012, 06:07 PM
Hmmm... I only deleted a whole heap of sequenced pictures the other day. I would like to try this again then because I haven't minimised it before.

I'll give it a crack and see waht happens.

JB80
28-03-2012, 06:28 PM
OK, I can only get it to work with about 30 images. If I use any more it processes roughly 30 and then stops and gives me an error message that just says "error".
I tried all of the compression rates and they range from processing some of it to none at all.
I did however get a 2 to 3 second timelapse video.

It looks like he is going to make an update to the software which might help.....

Liz
29-03-2012, 10:54 AM
Thanks jjj, look forward to giving it a go. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Intergage
29-03-2012, 04:03 PM
Really? I point my Canon XH A1s at the night sky filming in 60fps and then double the speed, I can make the speed 16 times faster before it starts jumping around the place. :)

astro_mike
29-03-2012, 08:34 PM
Great stuff Jeanette! Thanks for the tutorial :)

As I use a Mac (OS X), I went looking for some freeware to do the job, and found StarStaX (http://markus-enzweiler.de/StarStaX/StarStaX.html) for doing star trail images and Time Lapse Assembler (http://www.dayofthenewdan.com/projects/time-lapse-assembler-1) for doing, well, time lapse movies of course!

Cheers,
Mike

jjjnettie
29-03-2012, 09:06 PM
:D Thanks for sharing the link Mike.
I enjoyed your movies.

hotspur
29-03-2012, 10:35 PM
looks handy jjj,will give this a good read,when less tired,I want to try this.

What size files are the best? I have my camera on jpeg and raw in largest size.can you just use jpegs in a slightly lower size?

Those remote timers are great,I have a cheap $28 ebay knock off,it has developed a small fault,the cable going into it got a pizzling the other night
as the tripod got picked up it dangled about.But it has lasted two years of hard use,at the price-good value and one can have a couple,as a back up-still cheaper than half the price of canon one.

Not sure where to get the knock off ones,but should be easy to find.

Cheers Chris

JB80
30-03-2012, 01:57 AM
OK, so I was determined to make it happen and found a way. Basically these are just a couple of short vids that were left over pics from when I had the lightning trigger running so the pics weren't taken at timed intervals but it seems to have worked out alright. I want to try it with a bit more purpose next time, it'll give me an excuse to work out how my digital shutter cable works too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pV8MCkdirGk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2E_uw5-oE4

jjjnettie
30-03-2012, 01:36 PM
:) Nice vids Jarrod.
A time lapse of a very active thunderstorm would be awesome wouldn't it.

JB80
30-03-2012, 11:10 PM
Thanks. :)

It would be nice, it's a shame I cleaned out my pictures as I had a heap spare like that but with lightning as well. I kept the lightning and deleted the ones without it.

Oh well...

jjjnettie
31-03-2012, 12:07 AM
Have you tried any of the un delete programs you can get off the net?
So long as you haven't written over them or done a defrag, you should still be able to salvage them.

JB80
01-04-2012, 03:22 AM
I could try it I guess, I never would of thought of that.
I have no idea if they would be there still but there would be no harm in checking.

Oscar in Bin
02-04-2012, 12:51 PM
I did my first time lapse on Saturday night. Some comments
1. Settings - ISO 3200 20sec exposures at f2.8
2. 14mm lens on a full frame DSLR
3. 1000 images joined together using Virtualdub (freeware)
4. Used 15 frames per sec.
End result was a 3Gb video that was IMHO pretty darn good. Software was very easy to use. Just drag in the first image and the software pulls in the rest and sticks them all together. You just need to nominate the frame rate and the avi processing you wish to use.
However, reinforce the earlier comments about dew!!

jjjnettie
02-04-2012, 01:01 PM
:) I'm loving that you are all getting out there and having a go.