Advice before buying a dobsonian

[EricB]

Hi there! I am new of IIS which seems to be a great forum!

A bit of background on me: I am not totally new to astronomy having practised it in my teens and 20s with a refractor (75mn, equatorial mount). My experience is mostly in the northern hemisphere. I now live in the southern Adelaide hills where I have a good night sky to the south east.

I am now very keen to return to astronomy, but I am experiencing the typical beginner's dilemma in relation to what to buy. Having done some web research, I am set on a dobsonian because it delivers decent aperture for reasonable prices. I also like its simplicity of use. I am leaning towards Sky-Watcher because of the consistent positive reviews I have seen on the web. A collapsible seems a good option as I have limited storage room in my garage. I have a budget of $1500 to $2000, including accessories.

Here are my options as I see them:

- Buy a SW 10" GOTO for $1499 (Andrews Comm.)
- Buy a SW 12" manual for $1299 (Andrews)
- Spend an extra $500 and buy a SW 12" GOTO for $1999 (Andrews)

At this stage I feel that I should get the 10 GOTO, but I am sill unsure. Here are my questions:

- Is there a very noticeable difference between a 10" and a 12" Dobs in terms of performance?
- Is GOTO a big advantage compared to manual for someone like me who is relatively unfamiliar with the southern skies but not very tech minded. In other words is GOTO straightforward in terms of set up and use?
- Does at 12" fit in a Corolla sedan?
- I am set on Sky-Watcher but should I consider other brands?

Sorry for the long post. I would be very appreciative of your help and advice.:)

Cheers,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

Hi Eric,

I am fairly new to IIS as well. This is a great forum.



I think the 12" allows for approx 30% improvement in light gathering abiltiy over the 10". The views at the eyepiece are very good once the optics have been collimated.

I find the GoTo very useful. It does help to locate the faint DSO's in light polluted skies. It is also easier to keep my 5 year old interested as it tracks the objects being viewed.

The 12" Flex Tube GoTo Dob fits into my 2002 Astra Sedan. I kept the moulded packing material and the OTA fits into the boot without contacting any surfaces, but it is a snug fit. The base fits on the back seat with some care not to make contact with the door frame. If you need dimensions of the 12" I can measure it up for you. This may assist you in making determining if it will fit into your Corolla Sedan.

There seems to be plenty of happy GSO Dob owners on this forum. I went for the Sky Watcher and am very happy with it. Would have liked an SDM but that will have to wait.

[Brian W]

I personally enjoyed the skills of star hopping. I find that if i am trying to find an object that i enjoy the hunt so goto is not important for me. That being said on those rare nights when high mag is possible tracking would come in handy to keep the object centered.
Brian

[EricB]

Thanks very much Stu and Brian.

The Astra is comparable in size to the Corolla. Stu if it's not too much trouble, it would be great if you could give me the measuments.

So far I have very good deals at Andrews Comm. From what I can gather they seem the cheapest in Australia. Are there other dealers I should be aware of?

Eric

[Screwdriverone]

Hi Eric,

I had the manual 12" truss Skywatcher dob, and while I enjoyed star hopping for a while, I really only looked for the "bright" and easy objects that I knew were there.....if you have GOTO, you simply dial up the object you want or connect the scope to a laptop and use Stellarium to drive the scope, its awesome.

One thing which you will not need any tech skills for is the alignment, enter the time, date, location (coordinates, which you can find using google maps or even your GPS enabled phone) into the hand controller and simply select ONE star alignment.....the manual tells you how.

The scope will slew to where it thinks the star should be (say Sirius - which is south of Orion) and then all you do is use the arrows on the controller to centre the view of Sirius in the eyepiece, press enter and then it should say "Alignment Successful".

Then you can use the TOUR function which will step you through the objects visible that night for the place you are and the time of night....VERY cool as it just gives you a list, you scroll through (or simply start at the beginning) and then the scope slews to the object you want, all you have to do is wait for it to beep, maybe adjust it slightly and then enjoy the views....:)

All quite easy and my point is, GOTO will give you HOURS of things to LOOK at rather than spend HOURS trying to find things you may not recognise in the eyepiece.....once you have tried and used GOTO, its VERY difficult to go back to manual nudge nudge nudge to keep the object you have spent time finding, in the eyepiece....

If you also want to "share" the scope so others can look at the target too, the scope will TRACK it so it will stay there for as long as you want it to.

If you want to take some (less than 30 sec shots, or video) using a webcam or other camera, then GOTO with tracking will let you do that.

So, my opinion (if you havent already guessed) is GOTO, well worth it.

Cheers

Chris

[Screwdriverone]

Andrews is fine to deal with Eric and at the moment, I think they ship Skywatchers free to Australian locations, so thats a bonus....

I bought my 12" dob and my HEQ5Pro with 8" reflector from there and I am quite happy with both, as well as the service etc.

Cheers

Chris

[Screwdriverone]

Oh, one more thing in favour of the goto Eric, if you accidentally (or on purpose) move the scope away from what you were looking at, it doesnt forget where it is, so you can simply press ENTER on the hand controller and it will go straight back to the object you were on.

VERY cool as I used to spend AGES getting an object into view and then someone (usually me, or the wind) would move or bump the scope and I would have to spend more time getting it back on target again and then get frustrated that it wouldnt stay put for long....quite annoying after a while.

Also, the 12" is quite a big bugger, so carting it around is hard (I am 6 foot 9 with no back problems but it was a lump even for me).

For that extra portability (and a bit cheaper too) the 10" will be more than adequate to go DEEEEEEP, I dont think you will miss the extra aperture as I have gone from a 12" manual down to a GOTO 8" and am quite happy with the views as I can spend MUCH more time at the eyepiece than I used to.

Hope this all helps, sorry for waffling....

Cheers

Chris

[Vegeta]

hi, I own a 12" dob and am really happy withe the results. my mate owns a 10" skywatcher goto dob. iv'e looked through both. The difference is there, but its not like the difference between night and day. the goto was handy on his dob as it kept the image centered as we shared the scope, but i personally prefer manual as i enjoy the "hunt" for the object i'm viewing and it sort of defeats the purpose. don't get me wrong though as the goto is still a handy feature as the traking is extremely useful.

hope this helps, clear skies :thumbsup:

[AG Hybrid]

Id go for a manual 10" and then with the rest of your money get some decent eyepieces. I have a 12" and I find that quite often I cant be bothered taking the bugger out and setting it up. The portability of a 10" is actually substantial compared to the 12". I often wish I had the 10" instead. You really don't give much away in the view at all.

If you have an iPhone or a Android smart phone. Buy Sky Safari Plus for like $15 and use it as a sky atlas to find stuff. Don't need any of this goto malaki unless your a serious planet, double star and planetary nebula observer.

Besides a 12" in the city is crushed by a 6" at a dark sky site. I know this because I have both. Still the 10" will show you lots. Open star clusters and any to about mag 7 will be cake. At a surface brightness of Mag 7+ the individual stars in the clusters are Mag 12-14. A bit tough in the city. Some bright nebula's can be seen too with a filter. I am able to pick up some of the brighter galaxies with the 12". Ive seen Mag 10 galaxies in the Fornax cluster from where I live when they are at zenith. So the mag 9 stuff should be doable in the 10". I also live right in the middle of Sydney.

So try a 10" take it to a dark sky site as often as you can. The views will keep you occupied for years to come. Also if you get a skywatcher 10" it will fold up like an accordion.

I hope I have made your decision even more confusing. :D

[Shark Bait]

Hi Eric,

Back with some dimensions for the 12" Collapsible GoTo Dobsonian.



Optical Tube Assembly (OTA):

Fully Extended - 1400 mm
Collapsed for Transport - 925 mm (1025 mm with packing at each end)
OTA Diameter - 365 mm
OTA Dimension including frame for extension rods - 400 mm Max
Focuser Assembly - 125 mm protrusion from face of OTA

Base:

Height - 820 mm
Diameter - 640 mm

Packing Foam Blocks:

Length - 495 mm
Height - 245 mm
Depth - 145 mm (a 95mm moulded recess is cut into the depth for the OTA)

This scope is a heavy lump, but I can move the OTA / Base in stages and then reassemble without any assistance. Hope these dimensions help.

[EricB]

Thank you very much every one. It much more advice than I expected (thanks Stu for the dimensions).

The GOTO functions as described by Chris sound very appealling. I am not exactly a model of patience, so the easier it is the better.

At this stage, I think I stick with my initial impression: SW 10' GOTO, but I take Adrian's point about the quality eye pieces.

Thanks again. I sleep on it for a little while and let you know how I go.

Happy sky watching!

Cheers,

Eric

[EricB]

Hi there, I have one more question, if I may:

What important accessories should I get with the SW 10' goto? It comes with two eyepieces. What additional ones should I get? Also, should I get a light shroud? ( that's two questions...)

Thank you in advance for your advice.

Cheers,

Eric

[sopticals]

Add a 2x Barlow. GSO produce very good, inexpensive, quality barlows. I have all three of theirs available: 2" ED 2x (this has a 1.25" adapter), 1.25" ED 3x, and a standard 1.25" 2x. All of these work well with my 14" f5.1 Dob. A great way to double/treble your range of available magnifications, and at the same time preserve eye relief.

Stephen:)

[AndyK]

You may want to consider a collimator, particularly if you're buying the collapsible. My 8" SW flex-tube holds collimation quite well ... but it still needs to be done.

[jjjnettie]

Added extras....a collimator and a good barlow. I agree with Stephen, the GSO ED barlow (make sure it ED) pairs up very well with the eyepieces that come with the scope.
Down the track, if you decide to invest in some high end glass, upgrade to the equivalent barlow.

[EricB]

Thank you very much. So what about a light shroud (I think it's the right term) to cover the gap when the telescope is open? Is it useful?

Cheers,

Eric

[erick]

Hi Eric.

Yes to a shroud - but you would be able to make up one with a bit of design work and a friendly person with a sewing machine.

I think there are three purposes for the shroud on truss or strut dobsonians:-

1. To prevent extraneous light from finding its way to the eyepiece leading to loss of contrast and strange reflections.

2. To reduce dew formation on the primary mirror

3. To protect the mirror from damage when do do finally drop something between the trusses or struts. :rolleyes:

[Shark Bait]

Yes, a light shroud is nice to have but you can get away with not using it in the short term. The shroud assists in preventing 'stray' light finding its way into the light path of the object being observed. A shroud will also assist with helping to prevent some dew build up on the mirror surfaces with the added benefit of preventing people from dropping / spilling items onto the primary mirror at public observing events.

I ended up making my own with some matt black elastic material, velcro and some corset boning purchased from a local fabric shop. When I asked for the material and told them it was for a shroud, the staff thought I was preparing for a burial. Some Goth's had picked the same fabric for that exact reason a few weeks earlier (I am not a Goth).

[EricB]

Thanks Eric and Stu for you advice. I think I will get a shroud. As I am not handy with the sewing maching ( nor is my mrs), I will need to buy a ready-made one. Do you know where I could get one?

Also Andrews doesn't sell online, is that right?

Thanks,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

Astrozap make light shrouds for Sky Watcher Collapsible Dobsonians. I know that Sirius Optics sell this brand and would be surprised if the other retailers did not carry them.

[EricB]

Thanks Stu. I will contact Sirius optics.

Cheers,

Eric

[dj gravelrash]

Awesum advice guys. Im currently renting a 8inch dob from my astro club and am looking to purchase a newy. The 10inch goto sounds the business.
Cheers again:thumbsup:

[EricB]

A little update:

I have now contacted Andrews to have clarifications on prices, delivery, etc.

At this stage, my scope package looks like this:
My telescope package
- Sky Watcher Black Diamond Dobsonian 10” GOTO = $1499 (Andrews)
- GSO 6 mm Super Possl eyepiece = $29
- GSO 2x magnification, 1.25", FMC = $29
- Andrews adjustable brightness laser collimator = $69
- Light shroud price unknown yet

I would also like to add a power pack. Would this one be ok? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Jumpstart-900-Amp-Heavy-Duty.aspx?pid=283446#Description

I am also wondering if I should also get a GSO 30mm Superview and a reticulated eyepiece for scope alignment.

I am hoping that I can order the scope next week.

Thank you in advance for your advice!

Eric

[RobF]

Whatever you do Eric, don't look through any high quality Televue or Pentax eyepieces. To get the best quality views from your new investment you'd be looking at around the cost of your new scope in just eyepieces later down the track. (unless you ignore my warning and find out what you're missing out on.....;))

Just something to keep in mind while doing the budget.

[Screwdriverone]

Yes, this will be fine Eric, I have a smaller 650 one for $49.98 which I use on my HEQ5 and it drives it for over 5 - 6 hours so the one you listed may be over kill.....you could get away with the smaller one no problem.

Cheers

Chris

[EricB]

Thanks. Then I will get the cheaper powerpack then.

Rob, thanks for the advice. I'll make sure I stay away from top quality eye piece for a while... but I do get your point. I'm sure GSO can't be worse than my current 35 year old no-brand eye pieces though!

I forgot to put on my list collimation knobs for the secondary mirror Chris mentions in his beginners package thread. I can't seem to find them on the web. Could you point me towards the right direction Chris?

Cheers,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

This is the website for the knobs that you are after:

www.bobsknobs.com (http://www.bobsknobs.com)

I have got 3 secondary mirror knobs on order through my local dealer. Can't wait until they arrive. It is a pity that this is not standard on these scopes.

[Screwdriverone]

Section C, $20.95 for the secondary mirror is all you need, the primary ones are just fine on the scope.

Here http://www.bobsknobs.com/Newt/page66/SWdob.html

Cheers

Chris.

[EricB]

Thanks a lot Stu and Chris!

Cheers,

Eric

[AG Hybrid]

Actually the GSO superview eyepieces arn't bad. They are also very reasonably priced. Correction is ok too. Get the 15mm and a 30 mm for your mid-low power observing range.

Also Ive got a GSO 6mm super plossl and well... its rubbish IMO. Might be better off getting the gso 2.5x barlow and use that on the 15 mm instead.
I also have the GSO 32mm plossl and in my f5 dob the view was like looking through a fish bowl. The outer 50% was worthless to my eyes. I don;t know about you but I think that rather spoils the point of a low power eyepiece. Being 26 its not like I have old eyes either.

GSO superviews btw are 68 degrees or there abouts, compared to a super plossl of about 50-55 degrees. A very reasonably priced way to a bit of wide field observing.

[EricB]

Well, I ordered this morning (before I saw Adrian's post...).

I got the 15mm and 6mm in Super Plossl and the 30mm SuperView, plus a x2 barlow.

Hopefully I'll get the scope before the weekend. Can't wait!

Cheers,

Eric

[EricB]

Well, the scope was ordered on Monday (from Andrews); it arrived Wednesday afternoon in Adelaide, earlier than I thought.

Unpacking to full assembly took about 2.00 hours, putting the parts together slowly, making sure I was doing the right thing.

I must say that I was impressed with the way the scope had been packed. As your very average DIY, I found the assembly easy, everything fitting well. I am also impressed with the quality of parts used, even if the mount is particle board, the finish looks good. The only criticism I have so far is that the screwdriver provided is too small.

I would like to ask those of you who are familiar with Sky watcher GOTO dobs the following:

- between the 2 round plates that make the base there is a stip of white packing foam material that seem to protect the mechanism that makes the scope rotate. Should it be taken off?

- In the user manuel (page 7) there is mention of a "provided battery pack that holds 8 D type batteries", as far as I can tell no battery pack has been included with my scope. Do Australian SW dobs should have a battery pack?

-There is no jack to connect the Altitude motor box to at power source (eg battery pack of 12 v power pack). Is it normal?

- The other thing is that no invoice was included in the package.

Other than that the scope looks great and is heavy enough for me.

The next step is to try it during daylight to familiarise myself with it, use the focuser, align the finderscope and collimate it.

Hopefully, I will be able to take it out at night next weekend!

I let you know how I go. Until then...

Cheers,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

Congratulations on the safe delivery of your new scope!

between the 2 round plates that make the base there is a stip of white packing foam material that seem to protect the mechanism that makes the scope rotate. Should it be taken off?

The strip is attached to the base using double sided tape. I left it on my scope. It does not interfere with the mechanical movement and I am hoping it will help to keep the dust away from the gears.

In the user manuel (page 7) there is mention of a "provided battery pack that holds 8 D type batteries", as far as I can tell no battery pack has been included with my scope. Do Australian SW dobs should have a battery pack?

I did not get a battery pack either. When I asked about this, I was told this was not included with the Australian scopes. You will have to use a 12V portable power supply. The 12V system will be more efficient when compared to D cell batteries.

There is no jack to connect the Altitude motor box to at power source (eg battery pack of 12 v power pack). Is it normal?

That does not sound right. My scope did arrive with the cable to suit the 12V power supply. I would chase the retailer for this item.

The other thing is that no invoice was included in the package.

I would chase the retailer for the invoice. It is your proof of purchase for any warranty issues that may crop up in the future.

[EricB]

Thanks a lot Stu for your help. i will contact Andrews today.

Cheers,

Eric

[EricB]

I have contacted Andrews. They have confirmed that the Sky Watchers truss dobs sold in Australia don't include the battery pack.

The scope is outside, collimated, waiting for the night... I will have to do a manual first light test since I can't run the GOTO.

Cheers,

Eric

[EricB]

The scope performed well last night for its first outing. I started with the moon which looked spectacular with all eye piece except with the 6mm through which it was blurry. Jupiter was next. It was just above my roof, fairly low in the sky, in the Adelaide light dome. I couldn't get a decent focus on it, but could see the bands and 4 satellites.
Can't wait for tonight!

Cheers,

Eric

[barx1963]

Eric
Well done on first light. The 6mm EP will give average views except on exceptionally clear and still nights which will be quite rare.
Hope to hear reports of some nice DSOs soon!

Malcolm

[EricB]

Thanks Malcolm. I will be more organised tonight and will have Stellarium with me, as well as some mozy repellent...

I should get a power pack in a day or two to use the GOTO.

Cheers,

Eric

[Screwdriverone]

Cool Eric (or hot, probably in Adelaide....)

Sounds like you are having a blast....

The 6mm as Malcolm said, is subject to a LOT of blurring due to the atmospheric conditions as you are getting a LOT closer to the moon etc... so any turbulence like heat rising in summer is much more noticeable than with say a 20mm eyepiece.

Dont be afraid to use a widefield larger eyepiece like the 10mm or 20mm as you can see HEAPS of open clusters and nebula like ORION - M42 which are amazing to see for the first time.

For the Orion Nebula (and without the GOTO for now) simply point the scope to the MIDDLE Blurry "star" in the handle of the saucepan which is the "sword" of Orion. If you see the saucepan I mean, it looks like three stars lined up along the bottom and then the "handle" is sort of at a 45 degree angle up and away from it. Point to the MIDDLE one and you will see its actually not a single star but a very big nebula with heaps of stars in it (and 4 close together in the middle which actually light up the nebula - called the Trapezium)

This is a very easy target to find over and over and visually rewarding for anyone to look at.

Its one of my favourite things to look at, see if you can snatch a look tonight if its clear (constant rain and clouds here in Sydney)

Cheers

Chris

[EricB]

I love this website! Members are so friendly and full of advice. Thanks Chris :-)

Orion shall the be my task for tonight. Another hour or so before dark...

Cheers

Eric

[EricB]

I spent a couple of hours watching. I had a great time! :DThe Moon was great again and I was able to take a few picture point and shoot style with a hand held camera. Here is my second picture taken through a Plossl 15 mm.

The Orion nebulae was fantastic through the 25mm and the 15 mm.

On the down side, I could get any focus through the x 2 barlow I was trying for the first time. I can't yet figure out why...:shrug:

Cheers,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

The 2x barlow will result in doubling the magnification at the eyepiece:

25mm placed over the 2x barlow and slotted into the drawtube = 12.5mm

15mm placed over the 2x barlow and slotted into the drawtube = 7.5mm

This is a cost effective way to increase the magnification without purchasing more eyepieces.

You should be able to achieve focus using the 2x barlow on your rig. Hope this helps.

[EricB]

hi Stu,

I used my 2" barlow with a 2" 30 mm superview piece, slotted straight into the 2" focusser. Completely out of focus. As i have never used a barlow before I am not sure I am doing the right thing. The SP 30mm is fine used by itself.

Cheers,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

Did you use the 2" adaptor as well?

This should allow you to reach focus.

[EricB]

No Stu, should I have?

Eric

[Shark Bait]

Using the 2" adaptor as well and the 2x barlow / 30mm combo should allow you to achieve focus.

It is an idiosyncrasy of the Sky Watcher design that does not seem to be easily explained.

Give it a go, hope it solves the problem.

[EricB]

Thanks again Stu. i will give it a go tonight.

Cheers,

Eric

[Screwdriverone]

Hi Eric,

The problem is probably due to the primary mirror being screwed all the way down to the bottom of the tube for transport from the factory.

My 12" and my 8" Skywatchers were both like this and on the 12" especially, I couldnt achieve in focus like you mentioned.

Try this: LOOSEN the primary mirror screws (the big ones) as much as you can without completely letting go of the bolts that protrude from the primary mirror cell by the same amount so that the primary is "moved" up towards the secondary mirror.

Then without an eyepiece in, put your eyesocket flush with the focuser and look into the scope with the front cover removed (and look at a white wall or roof - NOT outside). What you need to see when you have the focuser racked out about half way is ALL three primary mirror clips in the circle around the primary with the secondary mirror looking like a concentric circle RIGHT in the MIDDLE of the reflection of the primary circle. If the secondary looks off to one side of the centre, adjust slightly the primary mirror screws until the little donut marker of the primary is in the middle of the secondary reflection and in turn the secondary is centred in the middle of the primary reflection, basically, ALL circles should look like they are on top of each other like a stack of three with a common centre.

Then, when this is done, put in your laser collimator (I assume you have one) and then from the top of the tube (be careful of the laser, it may be shining OUT of the tube) look at the laser spot on the primary and make sure it is in the middle of the primary centre spot by adjusting the secondary using the screws (or the bob's knobs) to adjust the tilt of the secondary until the laser lives inside the little primary circle.

Then go around to the bottom of the tube, look at the silvered 45 degree reflector on the collimator and see if the laser is "returning" into the centre of the HOLE in the silvered 45 of the collimator. If it is, it will be "scattered", but if it isnt, then adjust the primary mirror screws (the big ones) to TILT the primary mirror until the laser points to the HOLE and then you will see when the primary is in the right spot.

The smaller "lock" screws of the primary can then be screwed in GENTLY to lock the primary mirror position somewhat. Be careful to not move the primary too much with the locking screws by keeping an eye on the laser and if you do move it off, just back off or fix it with the big screws so its back on target.

Once done, you should move around to the front and double check the laser is still spotted into the middle of the primary and that the return is still scattered into the collimator return 45's hole.

Now your mirror should be HIGHER up the tube and the 2" eyepiece and barlow combo should get focus, your mirrors should also be now concentrically collimated so images will be sharper too.

I found my Skywatchers both had the mirrors screwed ALL the way down to the bottom of the tube for transport and I had to do this to fix it up and get good, collimated focus.

If you arent sure as to what any of this means, check out the tutorial here (http://starizona.com/acb/basics/using_collimating_newt.aspx) which has pictures of the mirrors and clips etc and it will become clear on what it needs to look like.

Good luck

Cheers

Chris

[EricB]

Thanks a lot Chris for the detailed explaination. I will try your method tomorrow.

Cheers,

Eric

[EricB]

Well, I tried the barlow again between two showers (I can't believe it's raining in Adelaide in February...). I collimated the scope as per Chris's instructions, then I inserted the 2" adaptor, the barlow, the 1.5" adaptor, the EP and ... voila! I could focus on a distant tree without any problem. This said, having to put a 2" adaptor on a 2" focusser isn't Sky Watcher's greatest design idea.

Cheers,

Eric

[Screwdriverone]

Hi Eric,

Sounds like you are putting a 2" barlow in the 2" adaptor THEN the 1.25" adaptor and a 1.25" Eyepiece?

You shouldnt need to do this to get focus. Having said that, obviously with 1.25" eyepieces, this would be the only way you would be able to use the barlow with those.....

I think you mentioned you had a 30mm 2" eyepiece. With the mirror now moved up the tube as per my instructions, this should easily reach focus now without the barlow??

Keep in mind also that as you have a collapsible dob, you can slide the secondary cage down a mm or three to bring the secondary closer to the primary to achieve focus, but with the primary now higher, you shouldnt need to do this with the 2" Superview or the 2" barlow or any other 1.25" eyepiece at all anymore.

Yes, you are right, the best design would have been that the focuser tube was the size of a 2" eyepiece so the 2" adaptor wasnt needed, but hey, what can you do, probably designed by a committee! As they say, a cow is simply a racehorse designed by a committee......;)

Good luck with it all.

Cheers

Chris

[EricB]

Thanks for the tip Chris. Yes, that what I am doing. OK, I will try with the 2". I guess I'll get use to setting my gear once I have taken the scope out a few times. I haven't been able to take the scope out at night since last week. We have been having cloudy nights lately.

Cheers,

Eric

[g__day]

Consider getting a zoom 6 mm <-> 24 mm quality eye piece. When you are happy to spend a bit more on eye pieces get a mid range eye piece around 13, 17 or 22 mm. I get a lot more fun out of decent (Vixen LVW) eye pieces - around $200 second hand then any sort of super Plossl.

And low magnificant is great for most seeing - its only on rare nights you can up magnification. For me light grasp and sharpness of image trumps magnification every time.

Also - consider:

1. Comfortable, height adjustable chair
2. Eye patch - saves quinting or holding one eye closed for ages
3. Bhatinov mask - makes nailng perfect focus childs play
4. Warm gear for winter!

Matt

[Suzy]

Hi Eric,:hi: sounds like you're having a blast!

I had trouble with my barlow not coming into focus as well. Not sure if it's the same problem as you though. In my 6" dob it worked beautifully, but when I got my 10" (same brand) the focusser tube was too short and the barlow stuck out too much and wouldn't come into focus. I wasn't happy, it's a 2" Celestron ED barlow which cost me $175! Grrrr.:mad2:

Following on what Chris saying earlier about visiting the Orion Nebula....
Go back to it using a 6 or 7mm ep and dive into the Trapezium. You will see 4 bright stars. Now look closer with that high power ep- you will have split them showing another two- the E & F stars (very tiny). The Trapezium stars are baby stars only a million years old and is what lights up the Orion nebula (along with the another 1000 stars in that cluster that we can't see). Have a look here (http://www.astropix.com/HTML/B_WINTER/TRAPEZ.HTM) for a diagram of the Trapezium cluster.

Next... point that same high mag. ep at Sirius and split it to reveal it's tiny "pup". At first you'll probably laugh and say (as I did!) how the heck, that is so bright, but take a good look and you'll see a tiny speck sitting above it.
Splitting stars is a lot of fun and rewarding when the bright moon is out or to go for between cloud gaps.

When you're ready to buy some observing guides, let me know and I'll help you out. I enjoy spending peoples money, it's what a gal does best. :D

Meanwhile, don't get that mozzie spray anywhere near your mirror or eyepieces, it will destroy them. ;) I use a fan and blow the suckers away. I found that when I was wearing repellent they still use to buzz around in the swarms around my face with that annoying noise, so with the fan they don't come anywhere near me.:P :D

Pop into the observing forum to sharpen your observing skills and get some ideas on some targets. There's a sub section for "observation reports" which is very helpful too.

And if you didn't already know this, here is an ultra useful tip....
When the stars are bouncing and twinkling like crazy, don't even bother setting the scope up (wish I'd known that in my first 6mths of first timer viewing, LoL.) You'll get good nights, great nights and lots of bad nights. On a good night, trust me, with that 10" dob you will see so much detail on Jupiter that you'll practically have to pick your jaw off the ground... those blue grey wave patterns, little storms etc it's so dynamic, in one night you can see a complete rotation of the planet (9 hrs). But don't wait until it gets too low down in the horizon - you want to view it when it's above 30 deg (the atmosphere turns it to soup at that alt.) We're starting to lose Jupiter, by March it should be gone, so when you look out now as soon as it turns evening (doesn't need to be dark) take a look while it's at its highest, as it sets fairly early in the night these days.

Also, take a look at Mars- the polar ice cap is very apparent! (I saw it very well thru a 7mm ep). And Saturn is on it's side at the moment :screwy: :lol:, the rings have opened up nice and wide, you can see the Cassini Division beautifully.

One more thing....
You'll notice now that EVERYTIME you step out the door (be it visiting or getting out of your car) at night time you will automatically look up! :whistle: :lol:

Enjoy Eric! :)

P.S. Btw, Chris & I hold the record for the looooongest posts, lol.

[Screwdriverone]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

You can say that again Suzy, although I am but a mere mortal compared to the master that you are.....;)

Cheers

Chris

[The_bluester]

And there is the statement of the day. I thought I must be the only one. Lately I find myself cracking my cars sunroof open to have a look when I am stopped at traffic lights!

Must get out for a look at Saturn, but the nights when I can stay up late enough are a bit limited, not really possible except Friday and Saturday nights with work during the week.

[EricB]

Hi Suzy,


Well, to tell the truth, I am a bit frustrated a the moment because of the cloud cover over SA at the moment. I think it's supposed to be overcast all this week. Not to worry, the weather gives me plenty of time to surf IIS, and boy am I learning a lot (although I haven't yet ventured too much outside of the Beginners' forums).

Thank you very much for the viewing tips. The Trapezium and Vega will be my next challenge.

Last time, when I looked at Jupiter, it must have been 34-40 degrees above the horizon. Adding to this that it was fairly close to the Moon and that it had been a hot day, I now understand why the seeing wasn't that great.

I 'll report on my next viewing (should I open another post for that?)

Cheers,

Eric

[Shark Bait]

This is my new mission. Time to throw down a challenge Eric :poke:. We are both fairly new to observing with telescopes. Lets see who can observe the 'pup' first and then report back to this thread.

[EricB]

;);)

Not fair Stu. You are way more advanced than me! Plus we are having winter in February in Adelaide! The skies are desperately cloudy night after night.

Joke aside, I am up to the challenge as soon as I can get the scope out.;)

Cheers,

Eric

[EricB]

How do zooms compare with single eye pieces?

Cheers,

Eric

[Poita]

A good one will compare favourably to reasonable priced 50 degree FOV eyepieces.
If you want wider fields then individual eyepieces are the way to go.

It is great to be able to start of wide and then zoom in without having to change eyepieces, and you start to get a feel for which magnifications work best with your scope, your seeing and your favourite targets. You can then choose to pickup a couple of high quality single eyepieces once you get to know your viewing habits.
Zoooms hold their value pretty well too, if you buy 2nd hand, you will pretty much get your money back if you decide to sell it on at some point. Very little risk really.

[EricB]

Thanks Peter.

Cheers,

Eric