gregbradley
27-06-2011, 09:09 AM
I thought this was an excellent post about one of the aspects when it comes to choice of chip for imaging. This is from Tim Khan of Florida who is very knowledgeable about CCD chips and the technology behind them:
Matt,
Regarding you question on camera match-up:
The rule of thumb is 1.5 arcsec/pixel; however I do not agree to this rule.
Having a ML8300 and ML16803 I get 0.84 and 1.4 arcsec/pixel respectively with my 7f7#7. I really like the small/fine pixel scales, but you have to compensate with increases # of exposures.
The 8300 sensor camera would be a great first camera; however, this would more demanding of you mount during guiding as small errors can become evident.
You also have choice of 6.8u pixel 3200 sensor and also 9u & 7.4u interline sensors.
The full frame sensors all suffer from Residual Bulk Image so it is important that you get a camera that can mitigate this problem; FLI is best at mitigating RBI. The interline does not suffer from RBI although it is physically present; there is a buried channel that is voltage biased during exposures and keeps the electrons in the epitaxial layer from migrating into the well regions. But due to this extra layer in the sensor, you loose 50% of the exposed well area and red sensitivity. The red sensitivity is lost since the longer wavelenght penetrate deeper into the sensor before converting into a charge, and some of that deep red goes past the buried channel before converting into a charge and is therefore lost.
So now the question is: clusters & galaxies, large diffuse nebula, tricolor narrowband?
With narrowband, SII and HA are deep reds (longer wavelengths), so you would want to go with a full frame sensor such as 6303 and 3200 (excellent sensitivity)
If your main goal is to do broadband images nebulas / large fov; you might want to consider 16803 or 11002 although it is interline. This is not to say you cannot do this with the 8300, there are many fine examples out there using the 8300.
You certainly have a scope that performs and will perform with a wide selection of cameras, but it boils down to what you want to image, and the time of year that you can image, and how much you want to spend.
Tim
So there is a bit to chosing your camera rather than just a brand or cost.
The actual type of chip (Kodak makes 2 basic types) will influence your results.
I have noticed what he says there - the 16803 being a KAF full frame chip seemed to be more red sensitive than my previous KAI11000 chipped camera.
There's a lot of discussion about this RBI. I would like to take a range of sample photos with and without its control to see for myself the effect on my images and if it is worth the extra setup to control it or when is it affecting my images and when is it minimal.
I imagine it would be poor practice to do dusk flats and then take a bunch of darks. You'd most likely see it then.
Or focus your KAF series chipped camera on a really bright star or the moon and then image a dim little galaxy or the Helix for example.
By the way there is now a 10 megapixel Sony chip out on the market. Sony has the lowest noise. Starlight Express offers a camera with one. I think its only one shot colour though.
Greg.
Matt,
Regarding you question on camera match-up:
The rule of thumb is 1.5 arcsec/pixel; however I do not agree to this rule.
Having a ML8300 and ML16803 I get 0.84 and 1.4 arcsec/pixel respectively with my 7f7#7. I really like the small/fine pixel scales, but you have to compensate with increases # of exposures.
The 8300 sensor camera would be a great first camera; however, this would more demanding of you mount during guiding as small errors can become evident.
You also have choice of 6.8u pixel 3200 sensor and also 9u & 7.4u interline sensors.
The full frame sensors all suffer from Residual Bulk Image so it is important that you get a camera that can mitigate this problem; FLI is best at mitigating RBI. The interline does not suffer from RBI although it is physically present; there is a buried channel that is voltage biased during exposures and keeps the electrons in the epitaxial layer from migrating into the well regions. But due to this extra layer in the sensor, you loose 50% of the exposed well area and red sensitivity. The red sensitivity is lost since the longer wavelenght penetrate deeper into the sensor before converting into a charge, and some of that deep red goes past the buried channel before converting into a charge and is therefore lost.
So now the question is: clusters & galaxies, large diffuse nebula, tricolor narrowband?
With narrowband, SII and HA are deep reds (longer wavelengths), so you would want to go with a full frame sensor such as 6303 and 3200 (excellent sensitivity)
If your main goal is to do broadband images nebulas / large fov; you might want to consider 16803 or 11002 although it is interline. This is not to say you cannot do this with the 8300, there are many fine examples out there using the 8300.
You certainly have a scope that performs and will perform with a wide selection of cameras, but it boils down to what you want to image, and the time of year that you can image, and how much you want to spend.
Tim
So there is a bit to chosing your camera rather than just a brand or cost.
The actual type of chip (Kodak makes 2 basic types) will influence your results.
I have noticed what he says there - the 16803 being a KAF full frame chip seemed to be more red sensitive than my previous KAI11000 chipped camera.
There's a lot of discussion about this RBI. I would like to take a range of sample photos with and without its control to see for myself the effect on my images and if it is worth the extra setup to control it or when is it affecting my images and when is it minimal.
I imagine it would be poor practice to do dusk flats and then take a bunch of darks. You'd most likely see it then.
Or focus your KAF series chipped camera on a really bright star or the moon and then image a dim little galaxy or the Helix for example.
By the way there is now a 10 megapixel Sony chip out on the market. Sony has the lowest noise. Starlight Express offers a camera with one. I think its only one shot colour though.
Greg.