Bluetooth and EQMod

[hikerbob]

I've posted this on the EQMOD yahoo group but there may be those interested who are not part of that.

I've managed to get a bluetooth connection running to control an EQ6 Pro.

I'll summarise what I've done here while it's fresh for the benefit of others
who are trying to do the same.

Equipment - a couple of ebay items and bit's and pieces from my workbench and the local Jaycar store.

- A bluetooth module
(http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Bluetooth-Wireless-TTL-Transceiver-Module-5V-GND-TX-RX-/\
380319761963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588cd3062b (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Bluetooth-Wireless-TTL-Transceiver-Module-5V-GND-TX-RX-/380319761963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588cd3062b)) US$15
- An LM7508 voltage regulator
- DB9 male connector
- Micro Bluetooth adapter for the PC
(http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200468996304&ssPageName=S\
TRK:MEWNX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200468996304&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT)) AU$1
- A power diode (not essential)
- One small plastic jiffy box from the local electronics store
- Double sided heat trasfer tape (not essential)

All up parts were just over the AU$20.

To confirm pinout's looking at the back of the male DB9 plug connected to the mount with the row of 5 to the top - 1 is top right, 5 is top left, 6 is bottom right and 9 is bottom left.

DB-9
1 12Vdc - I've soldered a diode into the feed to the regulator. Not essential.
5 - Gnd (Left most of the row of 5 looking at the mount or back of the
connector)
6 to the TX pin of the bluetooth module
9 to the RX pin of the bluetooth module

I've stuck the voltage regulator onto the back of the bluetooth module with double sided heat transfer tape and brought the GND and output pins down to the back of the 5V and Gnd pins on the bluetooth module. I removed the 5V pin from the module and then had to replace it, at a guess the hole is not plated through.

Windows XP mapped 2 ports in the Device setup, an Incoming and an Outgoing. I still have not made sense of that but the outgoing one is the one which worked.

I had some problems trying to get EQMOD recognised in the Ascom driver selector, the EQMOD.Telescope driver didn't have any attributes in the profile Explorer. Adding a name seemed to make it visible to the selector. I need to read some more about that as I may now have that right.

I've now had it running from The Sky and also via a very cheap game controller (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110647706075&ssPageName=S\TRK:MEWNX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110647706075&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT)). That's not fully configured so don't take it as a recommendation for the controller but it does do the basics.

I want to explore some other bluetooth options, a smallish battery pack and a bluetooth module for the hand controller so I can run wireless without a PC for simple setup's. Bluetooth comm's to an Arduino controlling the focusser(s). I'm also wondering how hard it would be to get the output of a USB hub into a bluetooth transmitter so that camera(s) can be run through the link.

The image is from before the module went into the case.


Bob

[wasyoungonce]

That's excellent stuff Bob. Well done.:thumbsup:

I should be able to use this on a G11 serial port and control thru Gemini ASCOM. I'll order stuff (parts ordered now) and give it a go.

[hikerbob]

Does the G11 serial port use 5V signals or true RS232?
The EQ6 uses 5V signal lines not RS232. If you are working with RS232 you would need to stick a Max232 chip (or equivalent) in there somewhere.

Cheers
Bob

[mswhin63]

also check whether you need to use DTS and RTS signals.

[wasyoungonce]

That's a good point and since the Gemini uses a Rj11 RS232 input I'd need external power to power the unit. this is available from the Gemini though (but not the Rj11 connector).

[wasyoungonce]

Yep DTS/RTS.

[wasyoungonce]

Gemini manual doesn't say what level the RS232 port input is but mentions the hand controller uses 5V TTL...so I'm guessing the Gemini RS232 in is TTL.

I'll look at the USB/232 adaptor and inside the PCB.

[hikerbob]

Do you have access to an oscillisope? That can be a useful way to check levels.

Can you drive the Gemini from EQMOD? If not what's the plan? One thing I'd like to do is to have the option of using the normal Synscan hand controller wireless. I've not checked what current it draws yet but my guess would be very little.

I need to do some homework to see what's involved in running the ttl bluetooth module as master and pairing without being connected to a device which understands all that. I suspect that it's possible but the initial goal was to get bluetooth running in the role of EQ direct.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Bob...we don't need no steekin oscilloscope! Have multimeter will travel!

I'm looking up the Gemini IC chips to determine the RS232 interface.

I can drive Gemini thru Gemini ASCOM (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Gemini_ASCOM_Driver/?yguid=291281972). It's kinds like EQMOD but different. It's a standalone driver that can also be used with planetariums etc.

:thumbsup:

edit:

RS232 interface looks like a MB3221 (Max3221) chip which is EIA232, 3-5V logic compliant.

[hikerbob]

Nice, you should have a good chance of it all working then.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Bob.

All set up but no workie at this stage. Led flashing on receiver module so it has pwr good...unless the led is supposed to be constant on?

Feeding +5V from a separate PSU. I didn't tie the earth from this PSU to the RS232 port in earth. I don't think this should matter.

I have 2 COM ports popped up with the bluetooth device. I mapped them to:
Incoming COM11;
Outgoing COM12.

I'm guessing the outgoing is the one I connect to in The ASCOM driver (assign as my COM port connection). Tried both in any case, no go.

Funny thing when I go to select the COM port in the ASCOM driver it has re-assigned the ports as 11c and 12c? Why I do not know and they will not connect. If I set the port to 11 or 12 9not 11c or 12c) I get port invalid.

I'll fiddle some more and get back.

[wasyoungonce]

Ok ...I remapped the ports back to: out, COM 10 and in, COM 9. I can now select these ports in Gemini ASCOM driver but it's not doing anything.

Might need a Max232 level converter?

[hikerbob]

Are you sure that you've got the orientation of the TX and RX correct, hooking up two wire gives a statistical probability of about 180% of it being the wrong way round.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Yep tried both ways..no go.

Hooking in the usual USB/232 cable work just fine, the bluetooth does not appear to communicate.

Did you use a device "Passkey", I entered none. I want to check the transceiver is receiving signals.

Ideas?

[hikerbob]

I use a passkey, if you are using the same module 1234 does it.

Bluetooth is a pain to faultfind. I did come across a serial point monitor at one stage but didn't explore much.

[wasyoungonce]

I wonder if it was the passkey.

I find it interesting the Gemini ASCOM "Automatically" found the required COM ports.

This driver has a auto search for the appropriate ports and if they are found they come up 1st on this list..which is what is happening. So the Gemini ASCOM recognises the port!

Jsut to double check....Tx out of the transceiver to Tx in on RS232? ...Rx to Rx?

I'm going to pick up a MAx232 today just in case. Might not need it but good to have one handy.

Thanks for your help Bob.:thumbsup:

[hikerbob]

I went Tx to Rx and Rx to Tx I think. I'm away from home at the moment so could have that wrong but am fairly confident.

[wasyoungonce]

Ok, tried a MAX232 interface with transceiver...no go. Tried another laptop (win7) with inbuilt Bluetooth..same things as before.

The transceiver appears to be broadcasting itself and this is recognised buy laptop(s). The Bluetooth dongle (on the 1st laptop) appears to be working as it recognises itself and adds it self as a bluetooth device.

I can set the bluetooth ports or let the software set it's own ports..ie: port 11 incoming and 12 outgoing... or what ever ports I want to set.

When I try to connect the Gemini ASCOM auto detects ports (I can turn this off with no change) and some strange number COM numbers appear in the COM port selection box..ie: COM11c or COM12c..or COMo12 or COM120...something like that.

If I manually edit this to the correct port...aka I enter COM12 ..I get a pop up message "The following settings are invalid: "COM" port" even prior to me trying to press the "Gemini ASCOM connect" tab.... for it to connect the driver to the port.

If I try to connect to these "odd COM ports", it just sits for awhile then "cannot connect to Gemini COM port does not exist"!

So all in all it's not working. The Win7 lappy scans the COM ports and tries to connect with these (as part of the Auto detect Gemini ASCOM driver) and this throws up odd COM ports numbers..some with Chinese characters.

So at this stage I believe the devices are working but I cannot get them talking to each other.

One thing Bob, I didn't ask,did you use virtual COM port drivers?

[willow]

Just an suggestion

i had similar problem at work with a inspection rover's coms to laptop

devices show but no coms

turned out to be the windows firewall was the culprit

may be ???? your problem

richard

[hikerbob]

"some with Chinese characters." - any chance your data rate is set differently between components? 9600 in one place and something else elsewhere?

I don't think I'm using virtual com ports. Did you try Tx to Rx and Rx to Tx?

I've been trying to get one of the modules working with USB on the device side (using it as a Bluetooth extension cable). No joy there yet and I'm wondering if I've transposed the data lines. I'm playing with Ascom control of a focuser (well a stepper on the desk at the moment) and seem to be stalled. The joy's of learning.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Willow..yep turned off firewall same thing.

Hi Bob....I found some info that others have reported the same thing..here (http://connect.microsoft.com/VisualStudio/feedback/details/236183/system-io-ports-serialport-getportnames-error-with-bluetooth). This is an old issue but still appears to be causing issues.

Could be because net framework? Quote from MS here:

Posted by Microsoft on 19/05/2008 at 2:40 PM
Thank you for reporting this issue. The root cause of this (RegistryKey.GetValue fails to properly handle non-null terminated string data) will be fixed for the next version of the .NET Framework.

MS supposed to have fixed this some time ago but others are still reporting this issue even in win7! Sigh!

[hikerbob]

I'm doing this on XP, Bluetooth on my Win7 desktop machine never seems to be able to find devices and I've not yet mastered ports on Ubuntu (nor tried to do EQMOD/ASCOM with Wine).

I noticed that Win 7 seemed to be a factor in the posts I read on your link.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Win XP on my lappy. I just used Win7 as it was a handy lappy to try.

I'm downloading net framework 4 to try.

[wasyoungonce]

Bob. I raised this issue over at the Gemini ASCOM forum (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Gemini_ASCOM_Driver/)and the developers have seen this and advice appears to be the MS software stack is the issue.

I'll be fiddling tomorrow on this and will post back.

[hikerbob]

I'm finding with my experiments trying to communicate with an Arduino via Bluetooth that the only serial port the Arduino software seems recognise is the incoming port, not the outgoing. That does not work so well. I'm also finding that when I try and reassign a port manually I have a long list of ports supposedly busy (and I don't think that they are).

A few things still to learn about Bluetooth and serial ports.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

This may not help.

I looked up the part number of the module (RF-BT0417CB) and found a link to the seller which had a spec sheet (http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=428)and another to a guy using one for an Android controlled bluetooth robot. (http://www.karelbruneel.com/blog/2011/01/android-controlled-robot/)

The guy running the robot has some code you may find interesting.

I believe range for this module is not that great compared to some...but this is reflected in the price!

[hikerbob]

I put an order in earlier for one of the Sparkfun bluetooth boards designed for the Arduino (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10393). Much more expensive than the module I'm currently using but I want to see what differences there are in practice.

None of that helps with my attempts to get a remote end bluetooth/USB connection working. I'd like to find out how viable it is to control a camera or webcam via bluetooth. I've put a power socket and voltage regulator into my after-market battery pack for my Canon 550D, if I can get the rest working I'd like to put a bluetooth module in there as well (and one end of a short USB cable) so that the EOS utility could be used almost wirelessly.

Right now I'm experimenting by connecting to a SURE GPS unit or the USB adapter on a Arduino Pro-mini. Both convert a USB signal to a serial line. The SURE GPS module already has a similar bluetooth module built in (which works well) so I've got something to compare against.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

My best guess is that bluetooth does not have the bandwidth required to run a camera and download subs etc...they are max around 2.1mbps.

[hikerbob]

"they are max around 2.1mbps." - that might be a problem :(

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Ahhh don't worry about what I say...go for it. If it works..I'd buy one from you.

I did see some guy with a wireless hub or something like that to run all devices back to his lappy.

I'll find it and post a link. Just about to try some regedit to fix my COM ports.

[wasyoungonce]

Alright getting somewhere with the BT module.

I deleted the COM ports in the registry and they were re-mapped and assigned and are now correct in the Gemini ASCOM driver selection.

If I select and connect to COM9, the outgoing port, I see the BT transceiver led goes from "flashing" to "on" for around 5 seconds then back to flashing. This does not happen with other ports selected.

So it appears COM9 is talking to the transceiver. But the Gemini is not accepting or responding this incomming transmission. Folks at Gemini ASCOM said the Gemini is a bit picky about time outs from wait for reply and COM port Tx rates so I have a bit to fiddle with.

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Bob..a bit of an update..."It is alive"!:eyepop:..."I have created life itself ..."insert evil laugh!" Finally up and running with Gemini on BT.

I had to:
Set Gemini Autodetect ports to "off", which allows a longer port communication time out period.

Set flow control to "hardware" on both com9 (the outgoing) and COM10 (the incoming) BT ports.

Use Max232 interface between BT module and Gemini RS232.
Not crimp my RJ11 plugs too hard as the Gemini socket would fingers not contact properly.

Still have lots to do..testing on data rates and drop-outs, make a dedicated PCB etc... but I have a big smile on my old mug thanks to you Bob!:thumbsup:

And a thanks to the boys from Gemini ASCOM, Paul, Mark and Tom!

I'll post back when I have some more progress.:D

edit:
the port stack issue is still there...I can fix this by editing the port number in regedit but I appears to have to do this each time I re-boot the computer (not sure on this yet). Something to do with MS bluetooth stack issue! There is obviously a permanent fix but it eludes me at this stage..I'm sure it can be fixed.

[hikerbob]

Well done. Hope you are enjoying that nice feeling that comes from knowing that it lives.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Just a quick question Bob.

Have you had any trouble with BT stack COM ports like me? I've tried an XP Lappy and a WIN7 lappy both get the strange null characters in the virtual COM port assignment.

I don't think its the dongle as the WIN7 lappy has inbuilt BT. Must be the transceiver.

I can fix this with regedit but I'm looking for a more permenant fix.

[hikerbob]

I've not seen the issue you have highlighted.
I'm seeing an ever increasing number of comm ports listed as In Use in the drop down box if I go to reassign a comm port manually and have found other aspects of bluetooth detection and service assignment to be flaky but no odd comm port names so far.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Thanks Bob.:thumbsup:. I emailed the supplier of the transceiver..it's a transceiver stack issue..probably some OS registration issue.

I can possibly run other BT stack software...looking at that now.

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Bob. Go a reply from mdfly, the transceiver supplier. They were very apologetic but didn't know what the issue was.

In any case after lots off fiddling I installed Toshiba BT stack and this fixed the issue. So it's poor MS software that causes the COM port designation issue.

That said...this is Toshiba software is not freeware, so I need to source either a cheap or free BT stack software.

Anyone? :prey2:

[hikerbob]

I saw quite a bit of comment about the MS bluetooth stack when I was looking at some issues. Let me know if you find a better one at a sane price.

[suma126]

just wondering can you sell me one. cheers:)

[hikerbob]

Shane I don't want to take on support responsibilities and if I was making them to sell that could become an issue.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Bob.

Just an update. I made this into a project (schematics etc) for Gemini users and have posted it up on the Gemini ASCOM forum (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Gemini_ASCOM_Driver/?yguid=291281972).

I'll also put it up on the Gemini forum for users.

Project works a treat. So a big thanks to you.

Regards

Brendan

[hikerbob]

Well done Brenden. I took mine out for a run on the weekend, the Bluetooth components worked beautifully but I did have real grief with a cheap gamepad. My new one arrived today but has not been used on the mount yet.

The whole EQMod thing is not so good without the ability to control the telescope at the scope (very hard to align it) but with that working (or once the allignment's done) it's fantastic.

Cheers
Bob

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Bob. I built 4 modules, 2 for me, one for an IIS friend and I have one spare I will give away to an experienced Gemini 1 user..just have to find one.:lol:

Control at the scope is preferred...maybe one day for me, although I can see using a BT game pad and BT to control the scope would be very attractive. I can do this in Gemini ASCOM.

I mucked around with various PCBs using the toner method I had the final version made for me. Beats the hell out of my attempts & they milled slots for the DC power jack! Wow! In the mean time, MDfly has changed the transceiver modules. They mirrored the pins. So I mistakenly purchased the new module found this out, damn! The fix was to put it in upside down as they had also changed the status LED to a bright green one.

Anyway, turning it upside down attenuated the LED brightness and it can be still easily seen thru my case (I use clear plastic case).

Oh by the way I mentioned acknowledgement to you of this project in my documents. You now an internet icon!:thumbsup:

I overcame the BT software issue with Toshiba BT stack...although my little netbook, XP home, had no issues like I previously had.

I guess I should post my project up in this forum as well its cheap ~$40 parts (depends upon where you buy them). I'll PM Iceman. If you want a copy of my docs I can send them to you (1.1meg zipped).

The future..hey we can control focusers with this BT as well!

Brendan


edit:
Pics attached!

[wasyoungonce]

Shane I will look around for a suitable case/enclosure to fit the transceiver in for an EQ6 BT project.

The EQ6 BT doesn't need the MAX232 IC etc and is thus a very easy build, but, it really does need a small box and I haven't seen one suitable.

Maybe Backshell of a DB15? (DB9 back shell is too small).:shrug:

[alistairsam]

Hi guys,

fantastic thread and neat project. I've been thinking of wireless control for a while and was searching for suitable transceivers on the internet until i found this thread at good old iis.

Bob, i've ordered the same sparkfun bluesmirf module, did you get it working or did you use the transceiver from ebay?
also, are these drop in serial modules, as in will they pass serial data without any programming of the module?
my interface is to a picaxe microcontroller.

i'm also working on wireless video, usb 2's bandwidth of 2.1Mbps should be adequate as that is the throughput rate. most video sources don't need such high bitrates.

so you could have three modules, one for the focuser/mcu interface, one for the scope control interface and one for the guide camera interface.

other option is to use wifi modules like this one for higher bitrates, and video transmission. will post results once complete.
http://littlebirdelectronics.com/products/wifly-gsx-802-11b-g-serial-module-roving-networks

also been thinking of using the xbee modules as they can work in full mesh configurations if you have more than one serial endpoint. but more expensive.

[hikerbob]

alistairsam (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/member.php?u=8031) I've not had any success so far talking to an Arduino via Bluetooth. It can be done, I've just not managed so far, wondering if I'm missing something basic on bit-rates.

No programming of the module for what I've done with the EQ6.

Looking forward to seeing how you go with wireless transceivers, the WiFly looks impressive. More and more greaat stuff becoming available to the end user.

The raw version of the bluetooth module has USB pad's but I've not had any success with that yet. It would be nice to be able to just add power and a bluetooth/wireless to USB devices and have connectivity.

Bob

[mswhin63]

I am waiting on a few regulator modules then I will be wiring the whole lot using power directly from the mount. The bluetooth module run a 6V maximum input before regulation so instead of making linear regulator I decided to go for more efficient switching regulation.

[alistairsam]

yep, the switching regulators are a lot more efficient.
http://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/464 is pin compatible with the 7805's.
I'm also looking at multi channel solutions like the RC servo's, so you can have just one transceiver and multiple endpoints like focuser, finder, scope, camera. aim is to have the whole thing wireless using BT or wifi, atleast for me.

[alistairsam]

i'm going to try out the attached solution as this way i'd be able to get most of the devices on the scope wireless.

i'll be using a 4 port USB over IP device that you can use to map a USB port wirelessly over IP.

all up, cost should be around $120 but will allow interfacing 4 endpoints including any microcontroller for stepper motors.
still theory, there may be practical issues, but should be fixable.
will post results

some products i found

USB over IP

http://www.i-tech.com.au/products/49011_Welland_4_Port_USB_Over_IP_Sh areServer.aspx


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Welland-4-Ports-USB-Over-IP-ShareServer-NH-204-/110705135571?pt=AU_Computers_Printe r_Accessories&hash=item19c68a4fd3#ht_780wt_905

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=YN8406


Serial to USB
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RS-232-SERIAL-USB-CONVERTER-DB9-PL2303HX-2000-XP-/220769596307?pt=AU_Components&hash=item3366e4b393#ht_3794wt_1139



wireless AP
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Belkin-N300-Wireless-Router-Free-Netgear-USB-Adaptor-/320714449897?pt=AU_Networking&hash=item4aac1223e9#ht_500wt_1156

[alistairsam]

forgot to attach the diagram

[mswhin63]

I think the issue with WiFi to USB (which I have one) is that it cannot transmit the COM protocols, or at least doesn't mention it.

The one that I have has the same listed features as the one you have displayed but cannot provide COM port usage which is essential to telescope control. So I only use it for remote USB hard-drive storage.

[alistairsam]

when you say COM protocols, do you mean a serial port?
the USB to IP bridge is just for that, to transport USB traffic over IP.

For serial data, you need the USB to serial adaptor which i've mentioned.
so you attach this inline to your bridge for serial ports which will provide serial communication over a COM port (the driver maps to a virtual COM port), and you use the USB ports for USB devices like the cameras.

[mswhin63]

Yes I understand that it should work but mine doesn't. I bought it for the very reason of connecting to a drive system and Digital Setting Circles some time ago but it won't work.

I am not a computer spert but there maybe some issue or design limitation to the one I have that won't allow it to be used in this way.
Maybe the others will work but I would query it first with the manufacturer before buying one.

[alistairsam]

I just tested a serial to IP device that I had lying around and it works fine for serial data.
that would be another method of transporting serial data over wired or wireless IP. so you can control it from over the Internet as well.

I'm adding the USB bridge as I wanted to interface the cameras as well.

I will test the USB to IP bridge and let you know.

did you test the USB bridge with a usb to serial device inline? if you use just the usb bridge, it won't work.
also depends on the usb to serial device. some of the ones on ebay are not reliable. i have a prolific device and one other, both work fine.

I work in IT so have a few workarounds for common issues. happy to help if needed.

[mswhin63]

Yep, I have numerous USB to Serial converters here and have been using it directly non wireless since I got my mount. I had a digital setting Circle originally with a USB to serial / TTL (my area of spert) and it failed to recognise the device when connected.

It seems the USB hub I received only recognises specific drivers that need to be converted to IP and COMMs is not one of them. If yours works then I would be glad to re-look at the project again.:thumbsup:

[alistairsam]

It might have to do with the usb to serial driver or insufficient power from the usb bridge.
will test and post results.
i might start a different thread, i've detracted enough from the essence of this thread which was Bluetooth to serial.
can you please PM the make and model of your USB bridge.

[mswhin63]

Well I can now join the EQMOD/Bluetooth club. Just got mine up and running very quickly I must admit. Quite happy with the results. :thumbsup:

Distance tested so far up to 8 metres.

The only problem I experienced was Com Port selection which is not changeable after established. But found it possible during custom setup for new device.

Will upload a photo later.

[hikerbob]

Well done Malcolm. Glad to see see others are finding this useful.

Bob

[mswhin63]

Thanks Bob, I have had the Bluetooth unit for a while, I was going to use it for my original project with Digital Setting Circles. But as I still can't use my DOB for a while, thought this would be a better project. Thanks for the boost.

Uploaded a general photo. Nothing inside other than the same bluetooth unit that you have and a power supply and as prototypes go a mess of wires :P

Unit is using mount power.

Now to try and get the camera to work wirelessly. :shrug:

[jurkov]

Guys, I envy you your skills.
I want to control my EQ6 via bluetooth as well. :(
Is there any chance to do the one for me? :)

[Scopeyard]

Hello Bob,

I have builded same device based on same board and connected it though voltage regulator to HEQ5. So basically same setup.

Now I have trouble connecting it to ASCOM.

Windows vista found 2 com ports on this bluetooth device- one inboudn and one outbound.

EQASCOM do not see mount on anyport. Using search also do not bring anything.

By looking on LED on device I see it recieves something as it sometimes flashes and than I try to connect to it , LED is ON . no blinking.

AS I understood from your posts, you had simmilar troubles, and maybe can help me out?

Would realy apreciate any info.

Regards,

Sergey.

[hikerbob]

Sergey I've not done any Bluetooth work with Vista but on XP I used the outgoing port (and cursed the poor implementation of the bluetooth stack).

I don't remember enough of the detail to come up with more than to try setting the port number to that of the outgoing port (and check port settings in the Windows device manager and Eqmod).

If that does not work post some of the details of your settings and I or others might spot something (the value of a second eye).

Cheers
Bob

[mswhin63]

The same conditions occur on Windows 7 which depends on the Bluetooth unit plugged into the computer. It only appeared for me but only a short time and I don't remember how I solved it though but I do remember it was the first com port that turned out to be the one finally used.

Weird issue but never experienced a problem.

I think the 2 com ports can be bridged to make into a single com port but don't quote me on this. Best for someone else to confirm it.

[wasyoungonce]

Sergey I'm not using mine for EQMOD ( I use mine with Gemini ASCOM) but have seen some issues.

I usually see 2 COM ports on the BT. One incoming port (the lappy called location zero) and out going port (the transceiver called location one).

In my case COM 5 is the incoming port and COM6 the outgoing. This is all to do with virtual COM ports that your BT stack software assigns. I have seen this in WINXP and WIN7.

My BT Places shows only one device, the outgoing COM6. However, I have seen this sometimes show the incoming port on occasions, especially if I scan for new devices.

Sometimes you can connect to your BT outgoing port in your "BT places"... it should ask for a passkey, "1234" (no quotes).

As Bob said on page 1 check this.."I had some problems trying to get EQMOD recognised in the Ascom driver selector, the EQMOD.Telescope driver didn't have any attributes in the profile Explorer. Adding a name seemed to make it visible to the selector. I need to read some more about that as I may now have that right."

If you see the transceiver LED go from blinking to "on" for a few seconds then you are communicating with the transceiver ok but if it didn't stay "on" then it failed to pair.

Just some things to check:
ensure you have the Rx & Tx pins to the correct pins on the EQ6 DB9 connector.
Ensure you have a 5V TTL module not a 3.3V module.
Ensure the passkey is input.
Ensure you are trying to connect to the outgoing port.

See how this goes.

As a side issue..last night I couldn't connect to my Gemini BT. I deleted the devices in my BT places and re-scanned for new devices. Still didn't work....cut to the chase....after 15 mins...I turned on the Gemini computer...well that helped didn't it!:ashamed:

[hikerbob]

Jurai sorry I haven't responded to you. I'm avoiding getting into making these for others, enough projects on the go and a lack of desire to risk dealing with warranty claims etc.

They are actually quite simple to make, some basic soldering and a little bit heatshrink and most of the physical componets are done.

I'm also thinking of making up a simple cable version using a Sparkfun USB to TTL serial adapter, a component they sell for the Arduino boards http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10008

A USB connection to the Laptop and three wires from the port on the telescope to the adapter and it should be away. If I get that done in the near future I'll post the details and outcome. That would be a cheap and simple alternative to make up.

Bob

[jurkov]

I understand you HikerBob. I will try to make it. :thanx:

What is output power of pin on DB9? Is it 12V? How many (mini)Ampers are there?

[hikerbob]

Jurkov,
the DB-9 connections
1 12Vdc - I've soldered a diode into the feed to the regulator. Not essential.
5 - Gnd (Left most of the row of 5 looking at the mount or back of the
connector)
6 to the TX pin of the bluetooth module
9 to the RX pin of the bluetooth module

I've never measured the current flow, bluetooth modules are generally very low power. A more powerful one Sparkfun carries is listed at 25mA avg.

The TX and RX operate at a 5V signal level. In hindsight I'd not try and fit it all into a box with the DB-9 attached, no simple way to use the DB-9 screws and easy to knock the module off the mount, better to use a cable and put it elsewhere.

Bob

[mswhin63]

The unit is very low power, I have easily set it up using the mount power. I have a switching regulator which further reduces the power.

I haven't measured the actual amount of current. I am considering making these for non DIY'ers but I want to test the Bluetooth to DSLR function first.

[hikerbob]

Malcome "I want to test the Bluetooth to DSLR function first"
Nice, I've not had any success in getting from Bluetooth back to USB at the device end.

I'm currently having a Play with a Belkin Homebase unit http://www.belkin.com/au/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id =508689. It has a built in 4 port hub and can be run via ethernet cable or Wifi to a router.

- My Canon 550d works well via Backyard EOS and the EOS utility want's to start up.
- I've been able to connect a 7 port hub to it and connect devices connected to the Hub (the Hub does not show as a device)
- Bluetooth modules have not registered yet.
- I can connect to an Arduino (USB to serial) but attempts to fire up the Arduino software have so far caused a blue screen :( No hassles when the USB is plugged into the PC directly.
- A generic webcam does not seem to register. I've not yet tried a Philips webcam or others with more specific drivers.
- A generic Gamepad seems to connect fine.

Adding a new device (or turning off the Canon and then back on) seems to disconnect other devices.

If I can get everything I need working that way it might also meet a lot of what I'm trying to achieve. Bandwidth across Wifi should be far better than USB.

So far I'd say it's flakier than I'm happy with but has some promise.

Bob

[mswhin63]

Bandwidth is no much an issue as the maximum acheivable speed is going to be USB only so doesn't matter.

I have a module that I will experiment that i am hoping will allow slave USB. If it works will act as a straight USB cable and hopefully allow bother Canon images and control through a single connection.

The only issue will be trying to run radio units at the same time, but I am hoping Bluetooth data packet can resolve this.

[jurkov]

I am going to buy this modul ConnectBlue OBS410i and company need to know speed of serial link on DB9.

[wasyoungonce]

I just uploaded a document (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showpost.php?p=775245&postcount=7) on how to program name and PIN code changes into your bluetooth transceivers.

Its not difficult and users may like to do this, especially if they are using more than one BT device.

Also makes it look flash!:D

[traveller]

Just stumbled on this thread. Very informative :thumbsup:
Bredan/Alistair, I am a complete noob when it comes to electronics, do either of your have a shopping list and pic by pic instructions?
I would like to have a go at doing one for my EQ6. My laptop runs Windows 7.
Thanks :thanx:
Bo

[wasyoungonce]

Bo

HikerBob listed it all in the 1st post (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showpost.php?p=702540&postcount=1) for an EQ6 (well all apart from a case).

I did make up a PCB design to fit in a Jaycar UB5 case (cheap case). Not that the EQ6 version needs much parts nor even a dedicated PCB.

Anyway I'm not at home ATM so I cannot access my files on this. I'll be home ...soon ...I hope....and PM you unless some else can help.

Brendan

[traveller]

Thanks Brendan, I will source the parts first and run them past you to see if they are the ones.
Bo

[traveller]

Hi Brendan and others, I managed to get the required parts for the BT EQmod. Before I start, I want to make sure I have everthing right and not stuff up :).
This is Hikerbob's original instructions
1 12Vdc - I've soldered a diode into the feed to the regulator. Not essential.
5 - Gnd (Left most of the row of 5 looking at the mount or back of the
connector)
6 to the TX pin of the bluetooth module
9 to the RX pin of the bluetooth module

As I am a complete noob when it comes to electronics, can you help me with the following:
1. Which direction should I solder the diode (red end to db9 connector or to the BT module?)
2. Where do I solder the 5v 100mA voltage regulator (it has three pins and has a semi circular head, one flat surface and one curved, I assume this is important for polarity?)
3. Which type of wire should I use to solder the bits together.

thanks guys, I would have PMed you, but cant upload photos. :thanx::thanx::thanx:
Bo

[2stroke]

sweet work, lol going to have to get a etching tank on the go :)

[wasyoungonce]

Ok try this.

remember you are looking (in my drawing) at the front of the DB9 (edit: that plugs into the EQ6 DB89 socket), just ensure you follow the pins.

There is more than one earth connection, just join them or use a small matrix board. and put this in a small jaycar UB5 box.

You only need general purpose small dia wire, no great current draw here.

hope this helps.

[traveller]

Thanks Brendan :thumbsup:
Will have a go this wend. :thanx:
Bo

[hikerbob]

Sorry that I've not been active here for a while. Some junk happening that's been very distracting.

This is a sidestep to the Eqmod aspect of the controller.
Some of you may have seen another post I put up a while ago regarding Skywatcher going open source with their API's.

Part of that was the source for a sample Android app called Panorama. I've not explored it fully but the bit that's relevant here is that it contains code to control a Skywatcher scope via Bluetooth from an Android device. I'd not had success when I first tried it via my phone or via a FlyTouch 3 tablet but I've just run it on a Galaxy 10.1" tablet and it worked straight up.

I used an app called AIDE on the tablet to compile the source for Panorama into an app, plugged the Bluetooth module into the mount and paired it with the tablet, started up Panorama and had control of the scope straight up. The basic interface is direction buttons and it seems to have the ability to save pre-sets coordinates.

No skymap with it unfortunately but given the source code is all there it gives some options for further development. Panorama also has options to connect a camera but I've not worked out what's involved there.

The code is can be obtained from http://code.google.com/p/skywatcher/source/checkout using SVN .

AIDE is available on Google Play and is great if you want to play with some android development (although a pain for swapping between files compared to Eclipse on a PC).

My Android development skills are still very basic but I'm hoping there is options here for a great grab and go controller.

Bob

[hikerbob]

If there is interest in this it may be worth it's own thread.
An addition to my last post, I remembered that Google discontinued support for their SkyMap app and released the source code to the public. http://code.google.com/p/stardroid/

I've not downloaded it yet.

I'm not confident that there is not some complication which I've not thought of but it seems possible that most of the code is already in the public sphere to produce an android app with a star map and the ability to drive a scope to a designated location via Bluetooth.

Given the command sets forsome other scopes are available (and the Panorama code refers to some other scopes) it's an interesting prospect for those who like remote control of telescopes.

Bob

[wasyoungonce]

This is good stuff Bob...well done, good to see new tech being adapted....reaching the front lines!

[hikerbob]

Brendan I started a new thread http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=89798 in the mobile astronomy apps section for this.

I'm hoping that we have enough people around here with the right mix of skills and the passion for DIY in all sorts of forms to put the bit's together. I've just been working with a code documenter Doxygen to try and get some doco together on both sets of source to help me find my way around.

Bob

[hikerbob]

AfMighttight also beeghtr hhst alsoome idea's. I'm trying to set up Bluetooth on a Skywatcher Dob and not having any success so far.
I've only got the Syntrek hand controller but a Syntrak will drive the mount (with the correct firmware). I've not yet been able to successfully connect to the mount via Bluetooth.

I've not been able to locate any official doco on the pinout for the RJ12 connectors used but my own measurements came out fairly similar to the info at http://sites.google.com/site/rwgastro/supatrakmounthacking (diagram at http://sites.google.com/site/rwgastro/circuitdiagram.jpg?attredirects=0) although I'd not decided regarding the role of white as flow control.

If he's correct then one line is used for bi-directional data flow which apparently works when you go via a max232 chip but I'm struggling to work out how to deal with that going to a bluetooth module. I tried a couple of 200ohm resistors, one on each of the bluetooth tx and rx lines back to the common data line without success.

I suspect that I could stick an Arduino in the middle to split the signals out but am wondering if there is some basic trick that I'm missing. Any ideas?

Has anybody seen an official pinout for the RJ12 connector on the Skywatcher Dob's?

BTW if anybody else want's to play with these mounts be very careful with the wiring, early on I managed to fry a control board when I cross connected the wires (phone wire is flimsy and I got careless).

Bob

[hikerbob]

Thinking about putting a micro in the middle, I've got some 8 pin picaxes on hand which may not be hard to use to turn 1/2 duplex to full and visa versa. Still not learned to program those things though.

Bob