Help wanted please

[supernova1965]

Hi all

I have been trying to learn longer exposures 30 sec to be exact I have learned how to make the camera do this. But my results are quite noisy the only processing has been to reduce the picture size. Here are the settings : Camera FinePix S6500f

f/4.5
Exposure 30 sec
ISO - 100

If any more settings are needed to help sort out what is wrong with settings they would be in the Properties I think:confused2:. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[suma126]

i think you will have to buy your self dslr camera and bulb cable control.

[Octane]

Warren,

Does your camera have long exposure noise reduction, and, high ISO noise reduction capability? I don't think it would, but, it can't hurt to check.

The alternative would be to take manual dark frames and then subtract these in Photoshop, for example.

H

[supernova1965]

Hi H
I will read up on the manual for long exposure noise reduction but I don't think it is in there or High ISO noise reduction as for dark frames would these be shots with the cap on and can you do them in gimp if I know that it is possible I can google for how to use the dark frames.
Thanks for your help and Suma126 I really wan't a DSLR but have to make do with this one at present so I am trying to push it's boundries as far as I can I am having fun learning I have finally figured out the apature settings for blurring effect which I have wanted to learn for some time now.:D

[Octane]

Hi Warren,

You're absolutely correct in that the dark frames will be taken with the lens cap on.

So, if your exposure is 30 seconds long, make your dark frames 30 seconds long, too. Try to take them immediately after taking your normal (light) exposure as you want the temperature to match correctly.

I honestly don't know if The GIMP can do it. I know in Photoshop there is an Image > Calculations menu in which you can perform image arithmetic.

Might be worth a Google!

Good on you for figuring out blurring (depth-of-field). In general, the smaller the aperture (the larger the f/-ratio), the more depth-of-field (less blur), and, the larger the aperture (the smaller the f/-ratio), the less depth-of-field (more blur).

You'll note the image details in my landscape images -- I often shoot f/11 to f/16 for greater depth-of-field without softening my images due to diffraction softening. For portraits, you'd use anywhere from f/1.2 (whatever your lens can handle) to f/8 (or greater, if you've got a lot of people staggered throughout a compositional field).

Have fun!

H

[supernova1965]

Thanks H

You have given me some starting points to get me going these pictures I am posting now have no composition planning at all just tried to get the DOF sorted out. Now I will start getting used to different settings and get composition sorted out.

[mithrandir]

Nebulosity can do it, it isn't that expensive - $US60, and when you switch to a CCD you'll be ready.

[Octane]

IRIS will do it for free.

Thing is, that neither of those bits of software are geared towards terrestrial imaging.

H

[supernova1965]

Hi all

I have found a tutorial for Gimp to do this so I will have another go tonight if the sky is clear here is the link

http://gimpguru.org/tutorials/removinghotpixels/



Actually this camera is a CCD surprisingly