DVD Recorders

[iceman]

So what do you recommend in DVD recorders?

We had/have a LG combined DVD/VCR player that's 3 years old, and this morning after a blackout, the player decided not to power up anymore.

I've taken it to get looked at, but if it's going to cost too much to repair, then i'll replace it with a DVD recorder.

I've had a brief look this morning, there's basically with HDD or without HDD. Given cost considerations, i'll be looking at one WITHOUT HDD to reduce the cost. I'm just not enough of a couch potato to take advantage of those features.

So any particular model or brand I should look for, or steer clear of?

Having a brief look on ebay and elsewhere, it looks like I should expect to pay $200-$300.. is that about right?
It will mean sacrificing our old vidoes to the VCR gods (and buying star wars episodes 1,4,5,6 on DVD) but thems the breaks with technology. I wouldn't buy another VCR player/recorder. It's just not worth it.

Thoughts everyone?

[iceman]

Oh and should i get a DVD+RW or DVD-RW?

[RB]

I don't know too much about DVD recdr's Mike, but I can tell you that I've had enough of LG.
I won't buy that brand again, I've had too many bad experiences with it.

:sad:

[jjjnettie]

My husband worked at Retravision.
His advise,
Steer clear of Lennox
Stick with well known brands.
JVC seems to lead the technology.

[mickoking]

Just one look at LG's tacky logo is enough to put me off, even though my computer has an LG burner in it. :P

[mick pinner]

l bought a Conia MR9 10D a while ago now and it is still working fine, from what l have found it is the same internally as some of the dearer brands, it does not have an internal hard drive, for basic use l cannot see the point.
lt has DV and USB interfaces 5.1 channel audio and dual format DVD-R and DVD-RW.
You should pay around $199.00.

[ving]

hook up your pc to the TV and get a dvdr :) they are REALLY cheap :D

[iceman]

Where from Mick?

[mick pinner]

l bought mine from JB Hi- Fi, but Retravision and the bigger electrical outlets in Melbourne have them so probably the same in Sydney.

[lost_in_space]

I would avoid Sony, as they are one of the main culprits in Digital Rights (Restriction) Management. Look for one that can have the regional encoding cracked or does not have RE. (RE is illegal in Australia anyway). Also look for one that will play a wide variety of different formats such as MP3, DivX etc. Mine is a Samsung and has performed flawlessly for nearly 3 years. I got the instructions for removing regional encoding off the net. It's simple to do, and involves holding down certain buttons for a set period of time to bring up the hidden menu.

[cometcatcher]

Doesn't seem to matter which brand you get these days as far as breaking down goes. It's a bit like lotto. I've had expensive brands fail and cheap ones go for years. Weird. :shrug:

[mickoking]

True, I always have a problem with Sony.

[hogly52]

I purchased my first DVD-R, non-HDD, from that well known retailer, whose name ends in Smith for $399. After at least six (6) exchanges I gave up and requested a refund, which to their credit they did without qualm. As much as I enjoyed the recording experience when it/they worked, the machines failed fairly quickly. My advice, and from those around me, is to stay away from the $200-$300 non-HDD recorders, and seek out the reputable HDD models. I think from memory these were in the $1000+ bracket.


Strangely enough, my current DVD (apart from my notebook one) players are all those sub $80 versions, which appear to have given reasonable service. The idea of creating DVDs on the PC/Notebook sounds a good way to go, but not one that I have tried.

Cheers, hope this provides some guidance,

Graeme

[Twokids]

I have a Pioneer dvr-320 (no hdd). I've had it for a while now and converted all my old home videos to dvd. It has worked flawlessly every time. It cost about $320 (on special) and is the middle of the range model. I think the only difference between the non hdd Pioneer models is the input/outputs they have.
I looked at the cheaper brands, but my kids videos were important to me and I didn't want to take the chance on the conversion not being so good on the cheaper recorders.
I usually burn the videos to rewritable dvd's on the recorder and then put the dvd in my computer for editing, so I didn't see the need for spending the extra money for an extra harddrive.
I looked into getting a card for my computer, but the good quality cards cost as much as the recorder. It also takes a lot of your computers resourses so I wouldn't be able to do much else with my computer while it was recording.
Anyway, hope this helps.
Bye :)

[FNQ_View]

We recently went through his here at home. Our choice was for a HDD equipped model. ( it's far easier for editing from videotape if you need to trim ads etc) Although you don't want to hear this, we ended up buying an LG - the reason - LG is the only model that supports both + and - formats for recording. This unit also supports dual-layer burning for $549 with a 3 Year warranty.

Mick

[Twokids]

Just a quick question :ashamed: ,

What are the differences between + and -. My dvd burner in my computer can use both but I've never worked out a difference between them. Am I supposed to use a certain type for certain things? I've always just used whichever discs I had handy and never had any problems. Am I missing something? :confuse2:

[rumples riot]

I have the Panasonic DVD recorder with hard drive and it works great. I have owned it for 18 months and there has been some upgrades to this model since then. The newer version has a 120gig hard drive, while mine has a 40 gig. You can record at varying qualities that will use differing amounts of the hard drive due to compression. I usually record in SP but use XP for special events. I think the newer model can record in HD digital. They cost a lot of money but work every cent. You can through away your video recorder if you get the panasonic version. Many, many, many features. The manual is over 100 pages long.

Anyway that is my recommendation.

[johnno]

Hi MIKE,
Its not allways a catastrophic failure.In fact most often
after a blackout,the Startup capacitors,in the power supply,go cold,and will not start the internal supply back up again.
Most remote powered equipement,is left on all the time,at the wall socket.(if not,then how does the remote work)
This allows the remote control to power the equipement on/off when WE desire.
As a result the capacitors in the power supply,stay WARM,and show no symptoms of ageing,UNTIL we lose all power for some time,then they get cold,and develop a case of ESR(effective series resistance),and refuse to work.
Bottom Line,Not Allways,but USUALLY,no great harm.
If your Tech is Honest,it should not cost a fortune.
Regards.
John

[iceman]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and thanks for the glimmer of hope John. Hopefully it'll just cost me the initial $55 and I can worry about upgrading in a year or two when the price comes down.

[iceman]

Got a call from the guys at the shop, unfortunately the PCB has broken, so it's an expensive replacement (over $250 at least). So it's time to buy a new one :(

But, he did say something interesting - apparently I might be able to claim the cost of the unit through my house insurance, or even through my electricity supplier because the fault occurred as a result of the blackout.

Anyone have any experience with this?

[RB]

Most definatly Mike, if it's from the blackout try your insurer.
It won't hurt anyway to give it a go.

Was you dob damaged by any chance, didn't you knock it over in the dark? :confuse3: :P

[johnno]

Hi Mike,
Insurance claims in this situation,are common practice,either through your house insurance,or the electricity supplier.
UNLIKELY,you will get knocked back.
Regards.
John

[iceman]

My home contents insurance doesn't cover it because it was a blackout (as opposed to an lightning strike etc).

They recommended I contact the electricity supplier, which I'll do now.

[johnno]

Must have been an EXTREMELY Violent Blackout,to break a Printed circuit board (PCB)

Mike,
To be honest,I am not sure how the electricity supplier will respond to THAT one,

They will understand a Total failure,They will even understand,the machine suffered a catastrophic disaster,when it was "Plugged back into the power point", causing irrepairable damage,"BUT,
A broken PCB,NO WAY.

As an EX electronics Tech I have repaired thousands of vcr,s,TV,s,etc,through Blackouts,Lightning Damage,but a broken PCB,is caused by either the unit being dropped,or a Lightning strike,which Blew apart all the earth tracks.

I would question HOW,the PCB got "BROKEN",during a blackout????,
if it was dropped House insurance Pays,
If it suffered damage due to blackout,Electricity provider pays.

YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO PAY.
IF it is not repairable,they should REPLACE it with a comparable unit.
Please let me know how you get on.

Regards.
John

[acropolite]

Mike, if the problem was caused by a power spike then I believe that your electricity distrubutor us up for the damage. This is certainly the case in Tasmania (we have replaced telephone equipment damaged by power surges on many occasions) and I suspect that the rules governing damage by power surges would be no different in your state. Contact your power authority and be firm.

[iceman]

The service guys said it was a power surge that killed the PCB (caused by the blackout).

I rang Integral Energy (reseller) who said that Energy Australia owns the network in my area so I had to claim through them. I rang Energy Australia, who are sending me out a claim form. So it continues.

I ended up buying the Soniq $198 job from JB Hi-Fi. Having trouble getting it to work properly (connections?). See new thread if you can help please.

[Dobman]

I,ve just bought a LG 80GB HDD/DVD recorder, never had any probs with LG in past. I think the hdd recorders are a great idea, saves having to look for a blank tape at the last minute and if your're like me and just record tv shows to watch within a week or so you dont need any tapes or dvds, just record everything onto the hdd
I would reccommend hdd rec,s and LG
Simon