DC power supply for Canon 350d

[TrevorW]

Anyone sourced or made one

I've got my 80amp hr battery now

Thanks

[rogerg]

I use one that I bought from Hutech for a rediculous cost: http://www.sciencecenter.net/hutech/prices/canon.htm

There's threads in IIS about buying and making them. Suggest searching for "canon 12v power" or something like that.

Roger.

[TrevorW]

See what you mean

I've got the power supply to run the laptop 12v to 12v

a double cigarette lighter socket, just need one more for the mount

once that and the camera's sorted I'll be sweet for the next dark site visit

How'd you go Saturday

[rogerg]

yeah, certainly is good having the camera running off 12v, highly recommended. I got rid of a few problems in my setup by doing that, intermittent problems and wasted time switching batteries.

The weekend was great, it was warmish (about 19 degrees at night) but OK. Got a few shots which I haven't processed yet, and some geminids that I have on my website (http://www.rogergroom.com/items/aswa_tammin_geminids_meteor_shower_ 09). 8 people if I remember right, nice group. :)

[troypiggo]

I've been talking to Trevor "tlgerdes" about this recently and am making it a little project for over Christmas. You can get a voltage regulator kit from Jaycar, change some parts over to get some more amps out of it, and use that.

[Peter Ward]

Sort of. Canon make a ACK700 (AC adapter kit). You can run one off a battery of your choosing through a small inverter. (or simply plug it into the mains if a powerpoint is handy).

[TrevorW]

Got one Peter thanks which I use now from the mains but I've been told using an inverter from a battery source is inefficient

ie: 12 - 240 -7.5v

better going straight 12 to 7.5v

Cheers

[lookus]

i have a 450d and i bought the canon ac power adapter and a variable dc-dc power (5Amp)power supply from jaycar. snipped of the dummy battery from the canon ac power adapter and connected it to the end of the dc-dc power supply.(double check polarity) select the corresponding voltage on the dc-dc power supply ( or as closely as possible depending on the options) and that's it.works excellently!

[Geoff45]

I got one of these. They work well. Mine also came with an AC adapter, which I wasn't expecting, so there's an added bonus if you are working from a source with AC. (You have to clip off the US plug and replace it with an Aus one, but that's no big deal)

[wasyoungonce]

Daniel McCauley designed a Canon DSLR PSU that runs off 12V DC to 8 to 7.5V DC out. Someone posted a link before and I looked at it and said it's ok but doesn't have over voltage/current fold back or protection.

I'll post the link again here (http://www.danielmccauley.com/equipmods.html).

I suspect the cct can easily be modified to incorporated overvoltage protection etc.

In any case I have re-thought the cct and I must admit that the regulators used has good thermal & inbuilt protection thus adding extra protection is probably an overkill.

The only thing I'd do is add an overvoltage protection zener or SCR cct to shut it down if the output raises too much...otherwise I see it a a good'un, especially his 2nd cct (due to it's high efficiency).

Last thing is you need a old canon battery so you can hack into it & pull the internals out.

Anyway...it's worth a thought.

[TrevorW]

Thanks I did pick up on this diagram and passed onto my tech BIL to make for me

Cheers

[AdrianF]

I placed an order for the PTN78000W from Texas Instruments as a free sample on the 19th Dec had notification they posted it on 20th Dec and it arrived by FedEx on the 23rd Dec free of charge. I will now spend some time building the rest of the circuit after xmas, I may just use a zener on the output so that if it goes over voltage my camera has some protection. All I have to do now is decide which battery I am going to sacrifice.

Adrian

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Adrian.

Funny timing of your post. I just picked up an adjustable voltage regulator from Jaycar & a few bibs n' Bobs to make the linear regulator. I'll be adding an overvoltage SCR crowbar..a bit crude but a last resort fail safe.

This is probably not needed as the regulators are pretty much self regulating & have over-current/temperature shut-downs in any case.

But..piece of mind.

I'll be running it from a 12V source and using this (http://www.camerafarm.com.au/p/132473/CHARGERS_POWER_PACKS_MISCELLANEOUS/Canon/DRE5.asp) canon battery adaptor...when I order it...for a 450D. Its a bit expensive ...I don't have a cheaper option of an old battery to pull apart.

I noticed my camera has a rubber grommet cut-out for power leads to feed into the battery compartment, so you can close the battery cover with the leads connected.....so it's designed for a remote supply...neat!

If you are using some zeners as last resort limit on the output...just put in a resistor in series with them to limit the current thru the zeners (to slightly below the zeners power rating).

If you want lets say 8.6 Volts as an overvoltage limit...you can put 2 zeners in series. I am doing exactly this...a 3.9V & 4.7V zener to give a total of 8.6 Volts...my max overvoltage limit.

Anyway it's interesting to so other heading up the same path!

Merry Xmas!

[wasyoungonce]

Well

It's (the 8V camera PSU cct) running with under/over voltage cut-out.... but I'm going to chuck the lot and start a new!

Problem is the basic linear regulators like the LM317T are rated to 1.5A (ideal) and when testing my cct at .5A load (constant) this regulator gets too hot! I cannot heat sink it adequately.

I got the under/over voltage protection working OK. Cuts in at 7.5V and out at 8.6V with little hysteresis.

So I'm going to try some of the new generation regulators like the LT1185. A 3.5 Amp (TO220 5 pin device) but the bigger package will help with heat dissipation . It has: Low drop regulator; 1% reference voltage stability; programmable over current (fold-back/cut-out or what ever you like); Shutdown ...I can run my under/over volts to command the chip to Shutdown.

So it's all back to the drawing board for me.

[leinad]

I have an AC battery kit for the 40D and just cut into the line and added a DC-DC travel adaptor from DSE. Works great.

[mill]

The Texas instrument voltage regulator 24 DC max to whatever you want works very well.
I made an voltage converter with only one resistor and one capacitor and i get 8.1V out with 6A. (so plenty to spare :) ).
The voltage doesn't swing at all and is short protected, so you can just take a pair of wires and short the output and it just shuts the power off until the short is removed.

[wasyoungonce]

Hi Martin...I've ordered the other IC's but have you a part number for the TI chip?

Thanks

[mill]

Go here Brendan.

http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/ptn78020w.html

And i just ordered one for you :P

Will be here soon.

[wasyoungonce]

I love it...well done....So I suppose you will be not wanting some of the "samples" from Linear Tech I ordered as well?

I wasn't looking at the switching regulators...I'm kinda old fashioned.

I feel so dirty.:rofl:


Edit:

I have to see you soon ..I need help on image processing..I suck at it.

[mill]

Come past anytime.
Call me first so i can get rid of all the girls :P
Ps: do you even have my number?

[wasyoungonce]

PM sent

[TrevorW]

Ok sourced and took Dans advice which was the easiest method to adopt

If you already have a AC/DC adapter for your Canon then buy a PowerTechPlus N287 12v to selectable V converter from Jaycar for $25

cut the supplied connector off (not the cigarette lighter plug end the other one) and splice the cable into the output power connectors on the MB of the Canon adapter, the lead is colour codes for positive/negative and marked on the plug you'll cut off so easy to follow (screws are under the label on the Canon adapter box to take it apart)

make sure you have all you + and - going to the right place and bobs you uncle, works a treat (no guarantees if you FIU though)

See pictures

[wasyoungonce]

Well after a lot of soul searching...Martin (user Mill) gave me a Texas Instruments PTN78020WAH (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/ptn78020w.html) adjustable switching regulator to try/use.

This item is excellent and can supply up to 6 amps! I made up a small cct board (with eagle) and am running this at 1amp constant (to simulate the camera) and there is virtually no heat emitted from the regulator....aka it is efficient and damn stable.

In fact there is a quantum more heat dissipated in my load testing resistors, which was not the case with the old adjustable linear regulator I was trying!

These new switching regulators have much more inbuilt protection features than I could add to a std linear regulator so it's basically add a few resistors & capacitors & away you go.

So it's all going in a small box and will be powering my 450D soon.

I'll report back on how this progress but I must say a big thanks to martin for pointing me in this direction.:thumbsup:

[TrevorW]

:thumbsup:

[AdrianF]

I have just received one of these 6amp switching reguators from Texas Instruments and I am in the board design stage, using pencil, paper and a sharp knife so it going to be an "ugly board" construction. Hopefully will have it finished by tonight for my session with the scope. What software do you use to design the boards? Usually I would use Protel but my licence as run out and cannot justify the cost to reregister the software.

Adrian

[mill]

Adrian, why do you even bother with an circuit board?
I have mine in a small box with the components straight on the converter.
For only 4 components you don't need a board.

[AdrianF]

That is true but I like to complicate things and I find it easier to modify the circuit if I have a board to work with.
I have just completed the circuit board now all I got to do is find were SWMBO has put my soldering iron. I went away for a few days and now I can see the top of my desk, now how am I going tofind anything:question:

Adrian

[mill]

Bugger, that you can see your desk is not good :P
The only thing i can see on my desk is my mouse pad :rofl:

[wasyoungonce]

I have to share my desk(s) with 3 daughters....all who demand room for their UNI/Tafe/School stuff.

So I have little chance to proclaim "my desk":lol:. I'm relegated to a lower status than the dog!

But...I'm a bit anal as well...I like cct boards.

Adrian..I can send you my Board layout & Schematic I made in Eagle....if you use Eagle?

It's a bit oversized ..I was experimenting with ground planes...but "Meh"...it works. Main problem was I had to make a device layout for the PTN78020WAH (for the board pad layout) and getting 2.2 micro fard ceramic filter caps on input. I put caps in parallel to add up to the req'd value.

Anyway...my 2 cents worth.;)

[wasyoungonce]

Sorry missed this part...I use Eagle (http://www.cadsoft.de/freeware.htm). Its freeware for boards up to 100 x 80mm.

[mill]

What? Brendan i hope you didn't follow the TI rules of design to the letter?
The only thing i used were the DC-DC converter, resistor and last but not least the capacitor on the output.
so three components in all.
How dare TI tell us how we have to use the component :P
PS: It works excellent with only an capacitor on the output :)

Revolt against designs i say :eyepop:

[mill]

And when would you like to come over for processing lessons Brendan?
Call me call me now (i know you want to) :rofl::rofl:

[wasyoungonce]

yes well...I'm admit I'm deficient in that area...by a long shot.:thanx:

And I kinda followed the TI specs...well loosely that is.;)

Edit:

Martin...ATM I'm trying to locate what this is from...see attached! very nasty...from C8 on horsyhead one with camera at 90 degrees. I think it was something on the main corrector lens & have just cleaned it.

It appears to be a stray reflection from Alnitak?

edit 2:

Cleaning the corrector fixed the problem. A shot from last night in full moon...not the best but shows refraction is gone @F10.

[AdrianF]

Fortunately I have my own desk, so does my wife. At one stage we were both studying and working so we both needed a PC each. So we have one room with 2 desks and 2 PC's then we decided we both needed laptops as well. So we have 2 PC's 2 laptops and now my employer as thrown a laptop at me aswell. Now if I could find my Jornada PD I would look like a proper geek....

Adrian

[mill]

Brendan that is not Alnitak.
Alnitak is more to the left in your HH pic, it looks more like SAO132451.
This is a bright star more to the right and closer to the HH and the angle of the reflection looks more like originating from there.

[mill]

See this picture Brendan.
You might have a thin film left on the corrector plate :(

[wasyoungonce]

As you can see the stray rays are ..."bad" to say the least.



Main mirror front is fine so it's not a major mirror quality issue.

I've cleaned this up/out & am hoping this was the problem as the stray off axis reflections are very prismatic in that the light has been broken into quite a diffraction pattern.

Anyway..thanks:thumbsup:...if it continues I'll post a separate thread.

[wasyoungonce]

Well the Canon 8.1V PSU is coming along...slowly.

ATM it's now in it's box & am waiting for the Canon DRE5 adaptor to arrive.

Most places are drop shipping so ....it's a waiting game.

Any way here are some pics. I added a switch that has an inbuilt LED but I didn't do a resistor on the cct board for this...silly me. Anyway...no problems as the cct board had a ground plane to drill into.

Soon...I'll be in "no battery heaven"!

I must again thank Martin for his most excellent help on this. This TI switching regulator is "a champ"! Something I was not looking at because of pre-conceived bias against switching regulators.

I was soooo wrong!;)

[mill]

Looking the goods Brendan :thumbsup:
You could also make that box a universal power supply, EG: 8.1V, 12V and 5V (usb hub).
I did all this in a plastic box and it is fitted to the scope so i can feed the camera, usb hub and everything 12V like mount, heaters etc.
This means that i have only two wires going to the scope that i don't even have to separate, usb and 12V DC.
The box with electronics is very light and this way the bulk of wires can be short and it all turns with the scope (so no wires get stuck).

If you have an old worn out battery then you can use that as an adapter, take batteries etc out and wire the + and -, then glue it back together.

Martin.

[wasyoungonce]

That's too sensible....I'd rather do it the hard way:D

[AdrianF]

I have just completed my power supply exept mounting it it a box. I have set the output to 7.4v (same as the battery) through a 10 turn 10k pot. I have noticed that some of you have set the volts to 8.1 is there an advantage to do this?

Adrian

[mill]

The battery just charged is 8.1V and the camera sees this as a full battery.
You can try 7.4V and slowly turn the voltage up and see when it becomes reliable.

[TrevorW]

I know with mine the 350d prefers the higher voltage

[wasyoungonce]

Well I finally got my DR-E5 DC Battery adaptor for my 450D.

Well errr it was not what I was expecting. It's designed for an AC input to convert to DC and is really part of the Canon ACK-E5 camera power kit.

I wanted just a battery adaptor I could put use with my own DC supply. I didn't want the AC/DC converter in the camera as it creates heat.

So...I am an Idiot.:ashamed:

Sigh...I just ordered qty 2 cheap LP-E5 replacement batteries from fleabay. I'll pull them apart to use in lieu.

So...have a laugh at my expense... but save some up as I'm sure to display more stupidity in the future.

[mill]

See post #38, last line :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

[wasyoungonce]

Yep bring it on...I'm like a rabbit fixated in a cars headlights...struck dumb!:lol:..or is that dumb struck!

[wasyoungonce]

Well I finally got my batteries to pull apart. I am going to use this with my 8.1V PSU....but just a question to others.

Did you remove the battery or just solder PSU leads onto the terminals & leave the battery in place?

I suspect "remove the battery"...but I don't see any harm in leaving it in apart from maybe upsetting the switchmode PSU as a capacitive load.

Anyone?

Edit:

Ugh..I should have been more clear...I mean remove the battery from the casing or leave it in.

[mill]

Duhhhh!! Take them out and loose some weight (no pun intended :) ).
Also, batteries heat up the camera and with this constant charging even more heat and maybe leaking.
Soooo be done with it and take the things out together with the small circuit board and solder straight on the pins, remember + on + and - on - :P

[wasyoungonce]

Yeh ..I was leaning to taking them out for heat & as they may upset the swithmode cct. And...after a few years the battery will detoriate in capacity which will probably play havoc.

But the plus side is that leaving it in may also smooth the PSU, at least while the battery is good.

Anyway..."it's out with it then"!

And what do you mean "loose weight"...cannot you tell...I've been on a diet for the last 15 years...haven't lost anything yet though!:lol:

Thanks Martin.

[mill]

Weight??? Ooohhh i mean Gravity :lol::lol:

[wasyoungonce]

It lives!

Final finishing hook-up went well. Here's my 1st pic with the 8.1V remote PSU for the 450D.

The only issue is that it gives a "Battery Low" warning. When I took apart the battery I noticed a battery monitoring cct (middle pin). This cct monitors 1/2 the battery voltage. It draws voltage from one of the 2 internal cells.

I suspect that I could use a resistor to supply this "monitor cct"..but Meh! It works without it.

[crystalsinger]

Hi folks,

I found this thread when searching for info on the maximum voltage on which it's safe to run a Canon EOS 400D...

I've hooked up the 'fake' battery from a (non-functioning) AC-DC adapter to a 12V - 12V DC adapter (cigarette lighter plug into jump-starter battery pack on one end to standard DC plug/socket on the other). The DC-DC adapter I have supports (among others) 7.5V and 9V. If I run the 400D on 7.5V I get a low-battery warning and no function. If I run it briefly to test on 9V everything works perfectly - but I'm concerned about damaging the camera if I use it for prolonged exposures/cycles (e.g. 4 - 6hrs of 25s exposures with 2s between each exposure for startrails, etc.).

Does anyone have any solid data on what the maximum safe voltage is?


Many thanks,

Jessica

[Nishandh]

Looks like the resources by DanielMcCauley, provided in comment#10 is shifted to here : http://www.easternvoltageresearch.com/dan/equipmods.html

Thankyou everybody for the help !