GSO EOS T Ring

[wasyoungonce]

Hi folks...

I just purchased an canon EOS T Ring and found it would not fit my 450D unless I remove this little screw..see picture.

Is this normal...I guess it is as the T Ring locks onto the camera OK with it removed.

Have already answered my own stupid question?:D

[prova]

Yep, I had to remove the little screw aswell on my 350D

[wasyoungonce]

Thanks.

All done..put away so I don't loose it....now all I have to do is remember where I put it away.:D

[Dennis]

I have several Canon EOS T-rings that have this screw and all of them fit my Canon 40D as is, that is without the screw being removed.

However, I have noticed that when the T-ring is fully mated with the 40D, there remains a very slight rotational movement, even when the bayonet is “clicked” into place.

Therefore, I had assumed (but haven’t tried it yet) that this grub screw could be adjusted to remove that small amount of rotational movement?

I’ll have a play with mine later and see what it does.

Cheers

Dennis

[kinetic]

That is exactly the function of the same screw in a typical Nikon bayonet.
It takes up the small amount of slack.
It also prevents someone from inserting the lens at the wrong insertion
gap...so that only one spot in the 360° is the correct insertion spot.
Without the screw, any of the 3 entry spots (separated by 120°) can
be the entry point, but the lens never clicks in securely.
My advice would be to err on the side of caution and leave it in,
and only take it out if you are happy the camera is not going to fall 6ft on
to concrete when you bump it! :)

Steve

[wasyoungonce]

The T Ring won't fit at all with it on. Locks on to the body without it.

Thanks gents

edit:

I found a neat way of using my TI89 graphing calc as a camera intervalometer for my 450D....:

http://code.coneybeare.net/posts/32-Make-an-Time-Lapse-Movie-Using-a-TI89-Calculator

I believe there is a similar method for those with TI83's.

[Dennis]

Hmm, just tried 3 of my T-rings for the canon 40D:

#1: Canon EOS-Made in Japan.
#2: Canon EOS-Made in Taiwan.
#3: Canon EOS–no other details.

The only one with a small grub screw was #1, Made in Japan.
#2 & #3 did not have a grub screw.

#3 was the best fit; that is, it had the least amount of axial rotation once “clicked” into place.

I tried screwing the grub screw in and out on #1 and this did not remove any of the axial rotation but looking at the design, this was not surprising.

Cheers

Dennis

[wasyoungonce]

Meanwhile ...back at the farm...


I got my TI89 program to work as an intervalometer. I can enter the exposure ..."interval", number of pictures.... "quantity" & it will calculate how long it will run for & take the exposures.

Funny thing...with the lens on it auto focuses as well before exposure. But...I don't think it'll work for bulb exposures (aka more than a few seconds). Maybe needs a program tweak maybe it just needs a manual mode in lieu of "Auto" exposure to fix this???

Not bad for nix!

Had to enter the program into the calc by hand...it would not upload to the TI89....."I hate manual inputs"!

Apparently it also works or is a TI83 version as well.

Well....it's not a Photix remote but .."hey..I'm cheap"!:lol:

[wasyoungonce]

Well the TI programs works well but it's no good for "Bulb" mode.

In manual mode you just set your exposure time (up to 30s)/ISO and then run the program and run the proggie. But as said in Bulb...no workie!