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NightCal
07-02-2009, 07:35 AM
My wife has asked me whether I want to have a DSLR for my 50th birthday present. The answer is probably yes. But before I commit to a particular camera I have a number of questions going around in my mind for which I don't seem to be able to pin down some definitive answers. So I'm after some advice.

What I want the camera to do?
Astrohotography of deep sky objects using both my Orion 80ED, my 8" LX200 and standard camera lenses.
Occassional widefield shots of the Moon and Sun on occasions such as eclipses.
(Both of the above both from my observatory and, on occasions, at star parties.)
Bird photography.

At the moment I've narrowed the choice down to the following options.
Unmodified Canon 350D = sensitive pixels (therefore shorter exposures possible > less accurate tracking needed)
Modified 350D (replacement Baader ACF filter)= better H alpha response, but greater expense and possible problems with colour balance for non-astro shots.
As both above but with a 400D. This would give me better resolution, but at greater expense and at the expense of sensitivity > longer exposures > need for better tracking.
1000D. Same resolution /sensitvity/tracking issues as 400D, but with Liveview focussing. New - so not available secondhand

I have a limited budget so a new modified 400D or 1000D are not options. A new unmodified 400D seems pointless as I can get liveview with a 1000D for about the same price.

I obviously have the option of buying any of this secondhand, but I do worry about buying expensive electronic equipment secondhand, especially if it's not from a shop.

What are people's thought about:
350D v 400D v 1000D
modified v unmodified (bear in mind the proposed non-astro uses)
new v secondhand
What addition equipment/software I should get (remember my limited budget)

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Tilt
07-02-2009, 12:16 PM
This is the exact question I also have been thinking about. Is there a way to take regular daytime photos with a modified 350D? Is there a way to tweak the white balance manually to achieve this?

If its easy to adjust, then I would probably try and get my hands on a 2nd hand 400D or 1000D and have it modified with the replacement filter.

Michael

renormalised
07-02-2009, 12:25 PM
Removing the IR/UV cutoff from a DSLR means that all your daytime pics are going to have a reddish tinge to them because of the enhanced red/IR response. Nothing you can do about that, except through processing possibly. Although, you can get screw on UV/IR filters that fit over the lens on your camera which will block that light. Not sure how it'll effect your piccies though (w.r.t. brightness/contrast and depth). Actually at Dick Smith's, they're selling 1000D cameras with a twin lens kit for $878. Might pay to have a look.

kinetic
07-02-2009, 12:31 PM
DSLR experts can correct me here, (I sure am not one), but I thought
I read somewhere that a modded (internal filter swapped) DSLR could
be recalibrated by just shooting a white card in sunlight and saving that
white balance as a custom WB?

Steve

renormalised
07-02-2009, 12:43 PM
Hadn't thought of that. You're probably right and it would be a good way of doing it. It might work?

cookie8
07-02-2009, 01:46 PM
Take a look at this thread:

http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=38480:)

leon
07-02-2009, 10:53 PM
Steve that is dead right, I modded my own 5D, and it still can be used for normal shooting if you use the custom white balance, with the image one takes of a white card in the full daylight.

Probably the best way to go.

Leon

Rigel003
08-02-2009, 04:04 PM
I"d cross the 350d off the list. It has amp glow in one corner during long exposures - an issue that was eliminated with the 400d onwards.

leon
08-02-2009, 08:38 PM
But if you do ICNR it will overcome this.

Leon

NightCal
08-02-2009, 10:50 PM
ICNR?

RobF
08-02-2009, 11:35 PM
ICNR = In Camera Noise Reduction

The camera does a 2nd internal (dark) exposure automatically straight after each long exposure you take - doubles the time to take pics, but very effective way to correct images (doesn't save you needing flats though).