davidpretorius
03-04-2008, 10:08 PM
Hi Guys,
before I go down the whole Bird way and use picaxe temp loggers etc, I am keen to build a little circuit that
Measures ambient
Measures mirror surface temp
if the mirror is greater than 1.5 degrees below ambient, shut down the peltier coolersI have a bounce back in mirror temps (the middle of the mirror is still warmer) of about 1 degree, so if i can keep the mirror surface 1.5 below, but no more, then i know i can turn off the cooling, wait around 10 minutes and i should have a nicely ambient mirror.
Now, trying to remember back 20 years........
I have a LM311 comparator (http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM311.pdf (http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM311.pdf))
I have a LM335Z temp sensor that turns temperature into voltage (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZL3336&CATID=&keywords=LM335Z&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZL3336&CATID=&keywords=LM335Z&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=))
I have also bought a relay so i can switch on and off the current to the peltiers which draw around 5-8 amps.
I have managed to get the LM335Z temp sensor to give out about 1.3V for 25 degrees and then if i apply a flame to them, then the voltage drops.
When i feed both the two sensors into the two inputs to the LM311, then I do indeed get a swing from say 8 volts down to 0 volts if i apply the flame to the relevant sensor.....................NOW
As soon as I attached the relay or a little computer fan or a big computer fan........the voltage out drops right down and does not react the same way with the load.
I am sure I am doing something really silly
before I go down the whole Bird way and use picaxe temp loggers etc, I am keen to build a little circuit that
Measures ambient
Measures mirror surface temp
if the mirror is greater than 1.5 degrees below ambient, shut down the peltier coolersI have a bounce back in mirror temps (the middle of the mirror is still warmer) of about 1 degree, so if i can keep the mirror surface 1.5 below, but no more, then i know i can turn off the cooling, wait around 10 minutes and i should have a nicely ambient mirror.
Now, trying to remember back 20 years........
I have a LM311 comparator (http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM311.pdf (http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM311.pdf))
I have a LM335Z temp sensor that turns temperature into voltage (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZL3336&CATID=&keywords=LM335Z&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZL3336&CATID=&keywords=LM335Z&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=))
I have also bought a relay so i can switch on and off the current to the peltiers which draw around 5-8 amps.
I have managed to get the LM335Z temp sensor to give out about 1.3V for 25 degrees and then if i apply a flame to them, then the voltage drops.
When i feed both the two sensors into the two inputs to the LM311, then I do indeed get a swing from say 8 volts down to 0 volts if i apply the flame to the relevant sensor.....................NOW
As soon as I attached the relay or a little computer fan or a big computer fan........the voltage out drops right down and does not react the same way with the load.
I am sure I am doing something really silly