modded, cooled, amp off 300d, the whole hog

[Bassnut]

Hi Guys

Im about to trash my 300D, and embark on an engineering adventure based on this. http://glogg.jupiter-io.net/300D/index.asp by Mike Kudenov.

Im intending to remove the filter, do the amp off mod, add a direct to sensor mutistage peltier cooling finger and water cooling (to move the cooling fan to off-scope) to my 300D. Mike extends the sensor out of the cam to a sealed chamber, but I intend to leave the sensor in place, and surround the cam in a sealed bag, suck all the air out of it and add lots of desicant to stop frosting. The FR reducer on the front will air seal all, and a dew heater on the FR will stop dew at that transition to ambient temp.

The motivation is the inky black 1 hr dark he produced with cooling and amp off mods. It will take time, and be risky, but the cost aint bad with Jaycars help ;-).

I just need one punk to tell me why this is impossible, or a complete waste of time (considering the reward of mild success).

[Lee]

Good luck! Hope you don't trash it.....
What happened to the smick gear?? :shrug:

[Bassnut]

Hi Lee

The smick gear is now GRAS15 installed at dark sky Moorook SA, for rent over the net. I can use it of course, but it just aint same as fiddling at home, Im looking for something to do, hands on, you understand ;-).

[h0ughy]

never know until you try, but some advice you will need a heater of sorts to stop condensation in the filter/sealed lens area

[iceman]

Sounds like fun, Fred! :) Definitely worth a go.. 300D's are only $500 these days.

[Bassnut]

Sorry if this doubles up,mmm

Thanks Houghy. I looked at your mod 1st with interest, and thought id go the next step. Specially with the amp off mod as amp glow appears to get worse the lower you go. And yes condensation is a big problem, but im hoping heaters in the right place and lots of desicant will control that. I suspect power consumption will be high given the heaters fighting the cooling;-).

Mike, well yeah, still got the 350D if it goes pear shaped ;-).

If it works, the old 300D will be worth a lot more hehe. If it dont, $500 is the max loss. A 40D wouldve been the killer mod, but a bit pricy to risk.

[seeker372011]

(shudder) rather you than me..not discouraging you understand, just waaay beyond anything I would personally dream of attempting

[Bassnut]

hehe, yeah, rather more than id normaly risk too, but imagine if it works, at least 30min noise free megapixel exposures, youd pay dearly for that any otherway ;-).

[Bassnut]

Well, Ive done it, the hard part, fitting the cooling back plate, the temp sensor (for auto temp regulation), removed the front filter and modified the sensor circuit for amp off.

http://fredsastro.googlepages.com/nebulae (click on it to enlarge).

And hey, after it was all reassembled, I fired the cam up and it worked . Yippy !!!!! (that part was a worry, cutting and soldering the sensor pins was tricky, I must say).

The rest is easy, all external.

[h0ughy]

congratulations - now show me some dark frames please I would like to drool

[Bassnut]

Houghy. Easy mate, small steps ;-). Im posting progress to bask in success before it all goes pear shaped. If it doesnt, I try a 40D next.

Post darks, why?, theyll be black blocks ;-).

[zipdrive]

Well done!!:thumbsup:
is that galavanised iron used for the coldplate?
Keep us updated..

[Bassnut]

Dave, yep galvaised iron, all I had handy, and you can solder to it. The aluminium sheet I had was too thick. If someone tells me galvanised iron sheet is no good, Ill slit my throat ;-).

Any one want to donate a 40D for phase 2 ?