Active Sun!

[Peter Ward]

Clearly we are getting close to the Solar Maximum.

Lots of solar activity today. :thumbsup:
I've uploaded a large format version to highlight the details

Image link here (https://www.atscope.com.au/BRO/gallery674.html)

[JA]

Amazing Peter. Wonderful details and activity:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Best
JA

[Leo.G]

Yet another stunning shot Peter. I'm yet to see the bad ones you claim to occasionally get, lol. I personally don't believe you get bad images, sorry!


I never put my bad images down to the cheap gear I own. It's usually the blind old fool who can't see to focus I blame. Same old fool is colour blind so editing can show a range of colours not meant to be there.


I'd really love to try for the sun one day but I think quality all depends on the filters from images I see. I have cheap things here I can slip on but I've never been game to try them because I value what little sight I have. I have a few good welding shields I trust though, should rig one of them up on a small scope and see what I get. It would obviously be a green image though, maybe an alien sun.

[Peter Ward]

Ta Leo. You might want to consider Baader Solar film...very affordable in sheet form... and with a little "cardboard box craft" you can whip up a push-on cell easily enough.

A little higher up the price scale you can add a Baader Solar Continuum to the above to boost contrast in the photosphere. :thumbsup:

[CaptainCook]

This is great. What equipment are you using?

[Peter Ward]

Thanks. On the web page. Scroll down. ;)

[CaptainCook]

How did you attach the filter to your scope- did you make an adapter yourself?
How does the tuning compare to a Lunt?

[Peter Ward]

It's a metal push fit adapter with locking screws made by Coronado. The big difference between front mounted etalons is a very evenly illuminated field.

Pressure tuners (aka Lunt ) can have a central "hot spot" (not all...some are very good). Front etalon tuning is very easy, a variable tilt stage angles the etalon to shift the central bandpass.

[Leo.G]

Thanks for the information Peter, I'll look into the Baader solar film.
A couple of questions:
Would an 80mm Megrez (original semi APO (whatever that means)) be a good size scope to play?
I have 80, 90, 102 and 152mm refractors, all a pain pointing directly overhead except for the short focal length Megrez.
I also have an 8" GSO reflector (f5) but it's focuser isn't great, a 5"Celestron reflector with a poorer quality focuser and an 8" GSO RC carbon which I think would have too large a central obstruction for the sun. It's good on the moon but not great for planetary and I think the same obstruction which impedes planetary would have the same issue for the sun.
I know, all probably stupid questions but I've wanted to do solar for ages because the sun is more visible more often than the stars locally (cloud).
I still have the little white clip on reflective screen which came with my Tasco 80mm refractor but I had issues trying to target the sun without risking damaging my eyes so I've never used it.


If I could get images 1/100th the quality of yours I'd be happy!

[CaptainCook]

I've got a 40mm Lunt that is tilt tuned at the front. I still get uneven illumination. I wondered whether this would be better. Have you any experience on the quarks? Id like to upgrade my solar stuff but it's so expensive.

[Peter Ward]

Refractors have better contrast and keep the light cone away from the OTA.
(better thermally)

Daytime seeing is usually average, hence the 90mm should deliver up to the seeing limit most days. I'd go with it :thumbsup:

[Peter Ward]

Sounds like the Etalon has a problem. The field should be very even.

Quarks usually have slight brightness gradients with imaging (i.e. need flat fields) but are great for prominence viewing. You have to use a very short FL to get a full disk.. BTW I have a Quark (prom model) basically new in box, that I rarely use.

Happy to part with it for a reasonable offer. PM me if you are interested.