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View Full Version here: : Eta Carina through L-Enhance and UV/IR-Cut filters


AstroViking
09-01-2023, 10:40 PM
Evening all,

We had two clear nights in a row here, and although it was the full moon I got very lucky - the moon was so low in the sky that it didn't rise over the house next door! Talk about "lucky imaging"...

Even then, I had to wait until after midnight before I could start imaging because the roof of my house was in the way. I guess I can't win them all...

Anyway, the first night out I captured an hour of the Eta Carina nebula with the L-Enhance dual-band filter. This filter does fantastic work in bringing out the rich, deep reds of the Ha spectrum. (Eta Carina doesn't seem to have much Oiii signal as there's little blue or green in there.)

Conversely, the UV/IR-Cut filter does just that - it chops out the UV and IR wavelengths, leaving only the visible spectrum. Doing so apparently helps to reduce chromatic aberration and 'blooming' in stars.

Of course, it wouldn't be astrophotography if something didn't go according to plan. I managed to change my camera alignment between the two nights (which is why the L-Enhance image is in portrait mode) because I was trying to debug an issue with the filter holder. I didn't find this out until I was doing the post-processing and trying to merge the two data sets. I will be very damned careful not to do it again.

Suffice to say, I got there in the end by some very careful rotating and scaling of the L-Enhance image until the stars all aligned with the UV/IR-Cut image. It wasn't a fun process, and I ended up cropping the image heavily to avoid the very obvious overlap between the two images.

I'm still having troubles with getting the Flat and DarkFlat calibration frames correct, so ended up not adding them to the mix. This is the area I'll be concentrating on next, as the key to good images is to have all the correct calibration data.

I did experiment with a range of exposure times and gain values to determine which gave the best results and the numbers below are what worked best on the night.

As always, comments, criticism and brickbats welcome!

Cheers,
V

Hardware: SWED72 @357mm / HEQ5-Pro / ASI183MC-Pro / SV305+SV165 / L-Enhance Filter / ZWO UV/IR-Cut Filter / KStars/Ekos

L-Enhance Image details:

* Gain: 80
* Offset: 10
* Temperature: 0 degrees C
* Exposure: 20 seconds
* Lights: 180 (1 hour of data)
* Darks: 25
* Flats: 0
* Dark Flats (Bias): 0
* Stacked and proc'd in Affinity Photo

UV/IR-Cut Image details:

* Gain: 50
* Offset: 10
* Temperature: 0 degrees C
* Exposure: 15 seconds
* Lights: 360 (1.5 hours of data)
* Darks: 25
* Flats: 0
* Dark Flats (Bias): 0
* Stacked and proc'd in Affinity Photo

Final image created with Affinity Photo

xelasnave
10-01-2023, 09:58 AM
Well done and thanks for the story.
Alex

Doogs38
10-01-2023, 10:40 AM
Great images Steve - thanks for sharing. Loved the description of your challenges - I reckon most of us will relate to the frustrations encountered during a typical evening of imaging. But when it does all work, the rewards are always worth it.

Regarding your flats and darkflats, what specific problem do you have and what imaging solution are you using? I use both KStars/Ekos and an ASIAIR+ and for both I aim for an ADU in the 22000 - 32000ish range (but I keep playing with this), with 5s exposures, and take 30 subs. I use an iPad for my refractor and an A3 light panel (from Officeworks) for my SCT. I use these in combination with a white T-shirt and white paper. As best I can tell, my flats and darkflats are working ok. Alex

AstroViking
10-01-2023, 01:30 PM
Thanks Alex and Alex,

It seems that most people just drop an image here and don't provide many of the details or back-story about it. Me, I want to know the details of people's images - particularly the gain/offset values. I can stop adding the "wall of text" if people are averse to it.

As for my Flats problem, I am trying to get images that are not over-exposed, nor have the hyper-green colouring caused by (I presume) the sensor's RBBG Bayer pattern. I have a flats-box with a variable brightness and have been experimenting with different length exposures.

I did try stacking with the Flats/DarkFlats that I captured, but had the most incredible green and purple halo around the outside of the stacked image. So I just stacked the Lights and Darks.

I have tried the KStars/Ekos flats wizard, but it never seems to create many images - it will claim it's capturing an image but the file never appears in the Flats folder; and the ones created are full of image artifacts. I've heard that ZWO cameras don't like really short exposures and what I am seeing tends to support this.

I'm also uncertain as to what ADU values I should use for the Ekos "Auto Flats" maker. Do I use the camera's bit depth (12-bits) or the 16-bits that's being reported to Ekos? There's a big difference between ((2^12)/2) and ((2^16)/2)...

Cheers,
V

oska
10-01-2023, 03:28 PM
Great work Steve.

I'm pretty sure with all the ZWO cooled cams you set it to 16bit and the driver interpolates to 12/14 as needed.
I do my F/DF with the nina wizard. same-same. I aim for 25k-ish and 0.5s-2.5s for broad band and 2.5s-5s for narrow band. I've found that much shorter and I get artefacts. Aliexpress A3 tracing panel + frosted perspex + paper. Also I have two types of perspex, one frosted and one pearl, to "dim" the light a little. I suspect the pearl interferes with the narrow band flats as I've never had any luck with that in the mix although fine for osc.

I really appreciate your write-ups, many thanks. I will try to be more comprehensive in the future ;)

Bodon
10-01-2023, 04:20 PM
A like your photos of the Carina Steve! Very nice.


A wall of text is very helpful as 'we' have the same scope and interesting to see your settings. I dont usually add any text except .... the pic when I post...my bad.


Mate, I only add 20 darks. Bias are a no no as I find they make the amp glow worse with the 183. My flats are poo. The colour is never even so I dont bother. Yup Im a naughty photographer....

Doogs38
10-01-2023, 04:32 PM
Hi Steve. Mate, your ‘wall of text’ is anything but that - it’s a great description and I/we all learn from the experiences of others. So, keep ‘em coming.

For your flats issues, let’s see if we can help you resolve them as I reckon flats are important. +1 for what John said about the ZWO drivers making the necessary adjustment between 16 and 14/12 bits. I spent days reading how ppl numerically calculate the optimal flats ADU for their cams and I quickly gave up - way too many opinions. In Ekos, I just aim for something in my target ADU range (I think I’m using 25k atm) with a 5sec exposure and adjust the light source intensity to achieve that … my ASI294MC seems quite happy with that but a different camera might require something different. For the ASIAIR+, I work it out empirically via the on-screen histogram and adjust the light intensity to get a curve that sits roughly mid-range. This gives subdued grey/green colour flats that normally (just) show any dust bunnies. I’ve not had any problems calibrating images using these flats.

How are running Ekos? Do you have a RPi4 at your scope running Stellarmate or Astroberry, and connect remotely? I connect to an RPi4 (running Stellarmate) remotely from a Mac using KStars/Ekos and have only once experienced an issue that prevented files being saved to my Mac. It turned out to be a simple permissions issue, which was resolved (while I was fault finding) when MacOS asked me to allow Ekos to access my folders. Alex.

AstroViking
11-01-2023, 09:25 AM
Morning all,

(Posting on here during a quiet moment at work. Just don't tell the boss!)

I think I have all the questions answered - yell if I've missed anything obvious...

I run Kstars/Ekos on a Linux laptop (Kubuntu 22.04) and get all the Ekos software updates directly from Jasem's package repository. (Instructions taken from the various pages over on Indilib.org.) All the hardware is connected to the laptop via a powered USB3 hub.

When I get a chance I will see what bit-depth Ekos is using for the camera. I suspect it's 16-bit, rather than the camera's default 12-bit, and the higher 4 bits are being padded with zero. Then I can work on finding a suitable ADU value.

The light box was made by Peter Miller and fits neatly over the end of the scope. The dimmer controller takes it from really bright all the way down to really dim, so no problems with finding a suitable brightness.

When taking the flats I aim for a minimum 3-second exposure and adjust the brightness of the light source to suit. I think now it's a matter of spending the time to find the correct brightness of the light box to generate a good flat.

The question I do have at the moment - when looking at the flats (in Ekos' FITS viewer, 'Tenmon', or through 'QuickFITS' on my desktop) do I stretch them?

Cheers,
V

xelasnave
11-01-2023, 09:52 AM
I am not a proponent of a wall of text and go to great lengths to be brief as you have probably noticed ...but you do it so well...And remember there is only one way to do anything..And that is your way...the thing you realise is trying to p,ease anyone other than yourself is crazy...there will always be folk who don't like your approach and always be people who like your approach.
Thank you for such wonderful posts.
Alex

oska
11-01-2023, 06:22 PM
Screen stretch Steve, so you can see anything.