Guide scope/Camera setup

[Fluffyllama95]

Hi

I have recently got myself a good little set up and I have an idea of what I need in regards to programs etc but I'm hoping someone can either explain or provide videos of all the steps involved in capturing something like Orion.

I have downloaded NINA and Sharpcap, i haven't decided which one is best to use yet. I have downloaded ASTAP for NINA. I also have PHD2 for guiding as well as EQMOD for my mount. I have downloaded all the hardware for cameras etc.
Anyway to make it easier I will list my questions and setup below.

Setup
- HEQ5 pro
-ZWO ASI385MC camera
-Redcat51
- ZWO 120mm mini guide camera
- ZWO mini guide scope 30f4

1. Do I locate my object first using the telescope camera THEN use my guide scope to follow a nearby star? OR do you use the guide scope first?
2. NINA or Sharpcap for capturing images?
3. Recommended exposure time/ISO etc for capturing Orion?
4. What are BIOS and flats? I know what darks are, how many are required per photo?
5. Can you see Orion Nebula through the camera? or does the colour only develop through multiple captures and edits? If that's the case, how to do you determine whether your target is in screen and focused?

any tutorial that takes you through every in and out would be great! I cant seem to find any online that show you every little step.
I plan to polar align my telescope with the 3 star method via the mount before connecting.

[Startrek]

Della,
I have written all the procedures to set up an HEQ5 mount plus EQMOD , PHD2 etc....
It’s a step by step approach and eventually you will be imaging

Basic procedures as follows -

Set up tripod facing true south
Fit mount head
Fit telescope
Fit cameras and all accessories
Cable mount ,cameras and accessories
Connect mount, cameras ( including cooling camera ) and laptop or air etc...
Set local Altitude on mount
Centrally rotate Azimuth on mount in line with front tripod leg
Set Home Position on mount
Balance Ra and Dec axis
Polar Align
Start imaging session
Set imaging plan
Focus telescope
Slew to target
Start guiding
Start capture
Finish imaging session
Return mount to Home Position
Switch off mount and equipment
Place your image files in folders
Check and inspect images
Discard poor images
Stack images
Process your stacked image
Enjoy the fruits of your labours with your new Astro image

See attached plus additional posts

Cheers
Martin

[Startrek]

More procedures.....

[Cyberman]

Martin , thank you for posting your procedures. They are very helpful. Cheers, Rob

[Startrek]

No problem Rob
Glad to help

[Startrek]

Della,
Here’s some general information below about Calibration frames

Calibration Frames

What are Calibration Frames ?
Calibration frames are specific photos or images captured in addition to the light frames which are stacked with your light frames to improve the quality of your final image

Types of Calibration Frames
Calibration frames include Darks, Flats , Dark Flats and Bias frames

Darks
Darks are frames which record the electronic noise or thermal noise your camera produces during an exposure. Darks will also eliminate stuck pixels in an image which can be both hot and cold pixels.
Darks are captured with the lens cap or lid fitted to the end of the telescope and are the same exposure length, same ISO or same Gain and same camera temperature as your light frames.
Usually 20 to 50 Darks are sufficient for Calibration purposes

Flats
Flat frames are used to create a uniform evenly illuminated or flat field across your image.
Flats help in minimising vignetting, dust donuts and other artifacts or anomalies in your image.
Flats are usually captured using a white t shirt stretch over the end of the telescopes OTA and pointed to an evenly illuminated light source like the early morning sky ( sky flats ) or a dimmer able Led light panel ( light flats ) Flat frames are usually short in exposure time ( 0.5 sec to 15 sec ) and must have the same focus and ISO or Gain settings on your camera as your light frames. Flats may differ from camera to camera but generally should be exposed 1/3 to 1/2 way across on your Histogram. Generally 20 to 40 Flat frames should be sufficient for Calibration purposes.

Bias Frames
Bias frames are used to reduce noise in your image in particular dark fixed pattern noise.
Bias frames are captured with the lens cap or lid on the end of the telescope with the shortest possible exposure available from your camera ( <1 sec ) Bias frames must have the same camera temperature, ISO and Gain settings as your light frames.
Generally 50 to 100 Bias frames should be sufficient for Calibration purposes.

Dark Flats
Dark Flat frames are captured to calibrate your Flat frames and reduce noise.They are captured with the lens cap or lid on the end of the telescope. Dark flats must have the same camera temperature, focus , ISO or Gain as your light frames but most importantly the same exposure time as your Flat frames. Generally the quantity of Dark flats should match your Flat frames to keep things simple.

Stacking Calibration Frames
Many cameras including various DSLR , cooled CMOS OSC and Mono cameras require different Calibration stacking requirements. Calibration frames from cameras sometimes produce better images after stacking from different combinations but in every case Flats frames must be used to create an evenly illuminated field.
Examples:
Lights ,Flats, Darks
Lights , Flats , Dark Flats
Lights , Flats , Bias
Lights, Flats , Darks , Bias
It’s best to research your camera type on forums or from the manufacturer to find out what Calibration frames work best.
The quantity of Calibration frames stated above should be used as a guide only. Final required quantities of Calibration frames are based on individual equipment requirements and outcomes

Stacking Calibration Frames
There are many Astro software programs on the market available for stacking your lights with calibration frames.
Deep Sky Stacker is very good stacking software and popular worldwide. It’s also open sourced so it’s a free download. There are many other good stacking programs to choose from like Astro Pixel Processor , PixInsight , Siril but most require purchasing.


Clear Skies
Martin

[Fluffyllama95]

Great information thankyou Martin! much appreciated!

[Cyberman]

Martin, Thank you for further helpful info. Could I ask you what combination of flats, darks , dark flats , bias you found best for your cannon 600D as I have that camera. Thanks, Rob

[Startrek]

Glad to help
AP is a bigger deal than most beginners realise, but on the same note extremely satisfying and rewarding when you eventually start imaging

[Startrek]

I haven’t used my 600D for DSO imaging in 3 years but I remember having issues with flats , they never seem to calibrate well , so I gave up and just used darks only and mitigated any vignetting using my processing software Startools
Nowadays I use a 2600MC cooled OSC for DSO imaging in my newts
I use my 600D these days as a polar alignment tool on BYEOS and dabble in some planetary imaging using my Televue powermates

Sorry can’t help further

[Startrek]

Below are my Canon 600D camera settings for DSO imaging
They may be helpful

Canon EOS DSLR Astro settings for prime focus with telescopes at focal lengths +500mm ( Canon EOS camera’s manufactured from 2004 to 2014)

Exposure - set to Manual
Autofocus - off or Manual
Grid display - off
Aspect ratio - 3:2
Screen colour - 1 or preferred
ISO - sweet spot is 800 for Canon 600D
Aperture - aperture is fixed through telescope
Shutter speed - Bulb with remote shutter release
White Balance - set to auto white balance AWB ( if Camera has been Astro modded you have to set a “custom” white balance )
Drive - set to single shooting
Colour Space - set to RGB
Image file - set to Raw + JPEG
Image review - turn off
Metering mode - set to Evaluative
Exposure compensation - set to 0
LCD Auto off - set to disable
Live View Shoot Function - enable
Live View Exposure Sim - enable

Custom functions -
ISO expansion - set to off
Exposure level increments - set to 1/3 stop
Long Exposure Noise reduction - off if shooting darks
High ISO speed noise reduction - off if shooting darks
Highlight Tone Priority - disable
Auto Lighting Optimiser - disable
Auto focus assist beam firing - disable
Auto power off - set to 2 minutes
Auto rotate - off
Built in flash - turn off
Red eye reduction - turn off
Dust delete data - set to none or turn off

Picture Style -
Sharpness 0 or halfway on slider
Contrast 0 or halfway on slider
Saturation 0 or halfway on slider
Colour tone 0 or halfway on slider
Mirror lock up - disable

Note : Some older Canon cameras may not have some of the above settings so ignore them


Cheers
Martin

[Cyberman]

Thanks Martin, You may be right about the flats. I’ll try with darks only. Rob