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Bobbyoutback
30-01-2022, 11:11 PM
Hi all ,
I have a love for super wide field Binoculars , these days you can only get around 9deg view !

Now to the point ' I buy vintage Japanese binoculars from 10deg & up , many arrive out of collimation , I can do some basic fixes but not enough depending each pair .

Below is a post from CN on the subject , please advise me if this is correct :question:

The term "collimation" refers to the parallelism of the optical axes of the binoculars to the axis of the central hinge of the binoculars. This is true collimation.




Merger of images is not true optical alignment. In this case, the optical axes may not be parallel and the image quality may suffer.



The alignment procedure will vary depending on binocular designs. It is best if the binoculars have the ability to offset the lens in the eccentric frames.



First, the eccentric frames must be offset so that the centers of the lenses are aligned with the centers of the outer frame of the lenses.If there is a strong ghosting of the image, you should evaluate the concentricity of the optical channels of the binoculars.For this it is better fix your head. If the displacement is quite noticeable, it is better to remove the objectives and adjust the prisms with a collimator (for example, a laser) using a mask put on the end of the lens body.Warning! In Soviet binoculars an similar, may be applied up to three spacers are allowed under the hypotenuse edges of the prisms for parallel passage of light. You cannot do without equipment if this position is violated .



The prisms should be placed on temporary springs and their most favorable position should be noted.It is imperative to control the horizontal image. The permissible deviation is 0.5 degrees, which is clearly visible visually. For this purpose, you can use a plumb line or a good horizontal level. Then the prisms are installed on permanent fixing springs.The eccentric frames must be offset so that the centers of the lenses are aligned with the centers of the outer frame of the lens housing.Little by little, you need to shift the eccentrics of both objective lenses until the images are merged.If collimation of the binoculars is provided by tilting the prisms, the optical axes of each half of the binoculars should also be pre-aligned. It is convenient to do this with a laser collimator.



Of course, before turning the screws, you need to mark them. In addition, try to determine if the image quality is the same in both halves of the binoculars. Place the binoculars with the objective to the eye in front of the light. Move the eye to the desired distance, evaluate the concentricity and roundness of the pupil. For this it is better fix your head. It is better to start aligning with the half of the binoculars where there is a displacement and / or a worse image.



Record where the image moves when you turn the screws. You need to turn the adjusting screws a little and see if the image quality suffers, see if the images are merged.If both halves of the binoculars produce poor images,the binoculars need to be adjusted evenly.



See if the ends of the binocular lenses are parallel. If not, then the axes of the binoculars are not parallel to the center hinge of the binoculars and this is a manufacturing defect. In this case, it may not be possible to perfectly align the optical axes of the binoculars because there is a taper error.It is better to return such binoculars to the seller.



For a final adjustment use a star or a distant point light source, relax your eyes and look, then defocus the customization eyepiece and then you should see at the same time a rounded spot with a dot in the center. If you do the opposite, the eyes have time to accommodate and the discrepancy will not be obvious.



Binoculars before this must be install at your interpupillary distance. Be sure to check if there is a unification of images in the entire range of interpupillary distances.



In any case, if possible, it is better to give the binoculars to a qualified optician. In addition, it is impossible to check the prism system for parallel light transmission without equipment.

In conclusion, remember about possible alignment errors.In general, there are about 10 optical offset errors, I will not list them here. If the eyepiece lenses are not centered in the barrel or the eyepiece barrel is off-center during rotation, ghosting may occur during operation. In the first case, it is necessary to center the eyepiece lenses, then fix them with a threaded eyepiece ring. In many cases, this will raise the class of binoculars to a new level.



If there is a displacement of the center of the eyepiece lens mount relative to the outer holder, try to displace the threads to another position to minimize errors. When working with a laser collimator, a situation may arise when the beam hits the center of the target, but the optical center will be tilted. In this case, if possible, a second diaphragm with a hole should be installed inside the pipe, then the adjustment accuracy will increase.

Hoges
31-01-2022, 09:02 PM
I got Seyfried's book many years ago which really helped me when I was making some bino's out of a couple of 4" refractors. See link - and have a good laugh at the price!! There are some great tips and lots of info that is clearly explained in the book. My project was comparatively simple as I only had a pair of moveable mirrors to collimate with rather than trying to move pairs of porro prisms or eccentric rings. One of the best tips in the book was to hold your head back several inches from the bino's while lining up on a distant tree/post/building - any collimation errors become really obvious. https://www.amazon.com/Choosing-using-repairing-binoculars-Seyfried/dp/0934639019?¤cyCode=AUD (https://www.amazon.com/Choosing-using-repairing-binoculars-Seyfried/dp/0934639019?&currencyCode=AUD)

Bobbyoutback
31-01-2022, 09:40 PM
Thanks John for the info & book link , sure is expensive !
I'll try & pick up a second hand copy .

I do need to learn how to fix some pairs that have illuded my feeble efforts so far .
In order to get some of the rarer super wide's I had to import from the USA as they don't pop up downunder .
Unfortunately around half need work :(

Regards
Bobby

Roger Davis
01-02-2022, 04:26 PM
Firstly there are two types of collimation. One is "Conditional Collimation" the other is "tail of arc".
The first is as it sounds, it is conditional in the fact that it good for the person who has done the collimation and is only good for the one interpupilary distance.
The second is a bit harder to do, but not overly so. Assuming that the prisms have been made orthogonal, it requires the alignment of the central hinge to the right or left hand side. This can be done using an auxiliary telescope of about 4X mag that has a rhomboidal prism over the objective that enables a view over the top of the binocular at the same time as looking through the binocular at an infinite target. Viewing through that side adjustments can be made to the eccentric ring to eliminate parallex error. Once one side has been done, then the rotation of the other side's eccentric to bring the image coincident can be done. This enables the use of the binocular by a wide range of interpupilary distances.
For the collimating device you can use an 200mm Newtonian or SCT telescope in reverse with an illuminated crosshair in the eyepiece. This will of course provide you with an infinite target with the light rays being parallel. All you have to do is make a rhomboidal prism! :-)
I recommend two books on this, one is Basic Optics and Optical Instruments SBN 486-22291-8 or Understandig and Attaining 3-Axis Binocular Collimation by my mate William Cook ISBN 9781790983780 (Editor for the no longer published Amateur Telescope Making Journal [for which I was a contributing editor])
Or you can wait until I finish writing my book, which will be a while yet before being published.

Stonius
01-02-2022, 04:59 PM
Wow, reading this 'how to' really makes me think this is something I never want to attempt. :-0 :-D

Roger Davis
01-02-2022, 05:09 PM
Having done a few thousand of these over the last 40 odd years, it isn't as hard as it sounds. Half an hour would be more than enough to learn how to do a collimation. It's a matter of how often you will have to do it and how often you will be asked if you can do it for someone else!

Bobbyoutback
01-02-2022, 09:59 PM
Hi Roger ,
Thanks for the excellent advice !
Shame your book is not yet for sale :(

I have had some luck just resetting the front objective but know this is not good enough , I do admit to stuffing up sets & thus have left them for the future if I ever know what I'm doing :rolleyes: I've even mucked up some just trying to do an internal clean , even lost those tiny grub screws .

Checked out a Rhomboidal prism you mentioned ( used to shift an incident beam without angular deviation or orientation change ) don't have one yet .

Maybe it would be better to just pay an expert ? What do you think please :confused2:

Best Regards
Bobby .

Roger Davis
02-02-2022, 08:41 AM
It is always good to learn something new. There are fewer and fewer of us who do this kind of repair (fewer than you think as the majority of Camera Houses, Fletchers Fotographics, and other binocular/telescope type shops used to send them to me until I retired) so rather than lose the expertise I am happy to give advice to someone who has an interest. Keep mucking about with a cheaper pair (those with grub screws pushing the prism off vertical are fine for that) but your good Japanese ones (early TASCO, YOSCO [York Optical], AMASCO, ASAHI Pentax etc) you may like to consider sending to a reputable repair agent (such as Servicing Optics in QLD) until you become more confident in doing collimation.
Regarding the rhomboidal prism, think of it as two Porro prisms separated by an air gap. That's how I created my first one with a 6X finder from an old Japanese telescope. Making equipment is not has hard as you may think!!

Bobbyoutback
02-02-2022, 11:50 AM
Roger ' thanks for the encouragement !
I'll keep playing around with cheaper pairs & stop fiddling with a Montgomery Ward 7x35 609ft at 1000yds for now & good other models :)

My favorite binocular so far is a Swift sports king ` built like a tank 7x35 - 630ft at 1000yds , these arrived in perfect condition with case & original box .

Thanks for the tip about making a rhomboidal prism out of two Porro prisms ' got some of those .

Cheers & Beers
Bobby