Looking to use my m4/3 camera with my telescope

[Cynicide]

Hi,

I've got a 10" Dobsonian Reflector that I've had for a few years and love. I've also got Panasonic m3/4 DMC-G7 that I've been using more often to do landscape photography. The other night I pointed it at Pleiades and got a nice night sky image after stacking some exposures up in Sequator. Naturally I wondered what I could do with the two pieces of equipment together.

I've done a bit of research and found that at the very least I need to start with a T-Ring. So I've ordered a Kowa T-Ring for Micro Four Thirds Mount (https://www.ozscopes.com.au/kowa-t-mount-adapter-ring-for-micro-four-thirds-mount.html) from Ozscopes. From here it gets a little muddy for what I might need.

I understand the difference between Prime Focus and Eyepiece Projection and I'd like to have a go at both. I also understand without an EQ mount or a motorized mount I'm going to limited. Still I'd like to have a go at it. So onto my questions.

Do I need a T-Mount in addition to the above T-Ring? If so which one would suit? I had a look around on OzScopes and couldn't find one that I thought might suit.

Some sites suggest a Barlow is required when using a Reflector with an m4/3, I was wondering if this (https://www.ozscopes.com.au/skywatcher-2x-1-25-achromatic-barlow-lens-with-camera-adapter.html) one would suit. It also says it has a camera mount does this also fullfil the role of a T-mount?

Is there anything else I need to at least use this camera in a prime focus configuration, and additionally in an Eyepiece Projection capacity?

Thanks!

[PKay]

Hi Anthony

Lots of questions there.

Out of my knowledge zone.

Give Bintel a call, they should work it out for you

[JA]

Hi Anthony,

For use at prime focus you'll need a T-ring Mount adapter which you've already purchased and a Nose piece which screws in to the telescope side of that adapter. The Nose piece should be such that it suits the focuser of your telescope, probably 2 inch in diameter, but you never know, it may differ.

Also not all Newtonian telescopes are immediately amenable to use with a camera as they may not come to focus within their focal travel range which is typically designed for use with eyepieces and may require some telescope mods (often moving the primary mirror) to achieve focus with a camera as opposed to an eyepiece.

You may need to research/ask your vendor if your particular scope can be used with a camera with or without mods, depending on its focuser design and travel.

BTW and out of interest the Panasonic G7 uses the same µ4/3 sensor as the 1600mc type cameras

Best
JA

[Cynicide]

Thanks for your replies everyone. The T-Ring arrived today I'm going to give it a go when the weather clears up and take it from there.

[Cynicide]

Thanks for your help everyone. My T-Ring arrived a few days ago along with the clouds in Victoria. Since then my wife has had to put up with me grumbling while looking out the window. Tonight there was a little break in the clouds so I took my chances.

I didn't know whether or not I would need some more equipment to change the focal length of my camera but I was keen to find out. It looks like it might not be an issue. This photo is blurry but there was still quite a bit of travel in both directions left.

I'm still trying to figure out if the blurriness issue is clouds or focusing, something to test on a cloud free night I guess. It's quite difficult to get the focus exactly right. Perhaps if I used the Camera App on a larger screen.

Gear

Telescope: Saxon 10" Dobsonian Reflector
Camera: Panasonic DMC-G7 (Micro Four Thirds)
Camera Mount: Kowa T-Ring for Micro Four Thirds
Camera Remote Control: Mobile Phone (Panasonic ImageApp)

Settings

No Camera Lens
ISO: ISO 200
Exposure: Single Exposure 1/25th of second

Post Processing

Contrast, White Balance, Sharpening and Exposure Masking in Lightroom.

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[raymo]

Because of the turbulence of our atmosphere it is difficult to get a single shot
of the Moon that is pin sharp, which is why the best results are obtained by
using a video camera and the appropriate software, so that the sharpest parts of each frame result in a totally sharp image.
With a single exposure, using a much faster shutter speed will help by reducing the time available to the turbulence to affect your image.
ISO 1600 and a high shutter speed, such as 1/1500 to 1/4000 sec depending on how full the Moon is can improve your image.
If your camera has Liveview set it to 5x and use it to focus.
raymo

[Cynicide]

Thanks, this camera is also a 4k video camera, what would the appropriate software be? I'd like to try it and see what results I get.

[raymo]

It is about 10yrs since I last did planetary or lunar AP, and things have
moved on greatly in that time. I'm sure someone else will help you with that
question.
raymo

[Cynicide]

Thanks, I think I've figured it out. PIPP for pre-image processing from mp4 to AVI and then RegiStax for processing.

[Cynicide]

I ordered an inexpensive Barlow and managed to get some pretty nice results. 1600 ISO, 1/200 shutter speed. Will be interesting to see how much further I can push this without the moon and in a less light polluted area.

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