Ok, what do I need

[leon]

Hi Guys.

Thinking about things is not going to make it happen, so action is need, from me, that is. :P

I'm lucky to have a great set-up, for imaging, but this is only as efficient as time permits when imaging, due to all related factors of unguided imaging.

I wouldn't know where to start, to find out what i would need for a Auto Guiding set-up, so i would like to invite all you experienced imagers out there to steer me in the right direction. :shrug:

Could someone please suggest what do i need, from camera to leads etc, I have the G11 with Gemini (there is a hole that says, Auto Guider) :whistle:

I have the FSQ106 Scope, and good Lappy, so i expect that, that is a start,

Thank You in advance :thumbsup:

Leon :)

[jase]

Leon,
I will share my view on this. Many others may have other ideas/concepts.

There are two options; Off axis guider or guidescope.

Off axis guiders (OAG) are good for SCTs, Newts. There are some advantages of guiding on the same imaging path for example SCT primary mirror shifts can be remedied (providing the shift isn't too large). The downside of many off axis guiders is that the guide stars can be dim and with many scopes as the pick off prism that redirects the light to the guider is at the field of view edge, the stars are elongated (not pinpoints). In addition to this guide star selection is limited and in some cases you don't want to be guiding at the long focal length you are imaging due to poor seeing conditions. Poor seeing will result in the guider making some major corrections usually with erroneous results.

A separate guidescope gives you greater flexibility and I believe is the best option for you with the FSQ-106N. I would refrain from putting an OAG in the optical path of the FSQ-106N. Doing so will change your 530mm focal length and as you've experienced reaching focus with the FSQ-106N can be at times difficult due to its limited back focus. Finally you've purchased the scope for its fast flat field, don't compromise that with an OAG.

So to get you up and running you're going to need to investigate;
How to mount another scope to your G11 - done via tube rings to mount on to of the FSQ-106N or changing of the Losmandy dovetail plate to accommodate two scopes side-by-side (part number DSBS). A general rule of thumb - the guide scope should be 1/3rd the focal length of your main scope. There are plenty of small low end refractors that will meet this requirement. You're then going to need a guider such as web cam or if you've got some funds a CCD guider (which will allow you to select much fainter guide stars). There is plenty of software around for guiding, depends on your budget. Some software is better than others. Look for features such as guiding aggressiveness configuration and the ability to not worry about aligning your guider's pixel array with your telescope's RA. MaximDL what I would consider to be one of the best packages around. You could also use this to control your 5D, and assist in image processing. Very powerful.

There are plenty of links available on guiding. Don't expect to guide well straight away. It will take sometime to fine tune the your system, but once optimised you'll be able to go very deep in your images with pinpoint stars to the edge.

[leon]

Thank You Jase, for that very detailed info, i will have a good read and see how scary this stuff is.

Leon

[leon]

Jase,

On reading your info on guiding, you said the as a rule of thumb, the guide scope should be about one third the focal length, this in real terms means that i should be looking at something like, 200mm focal length, as the Tak is only 530mm focal length.

Is this correct, or have i read this wrong.

Cheers Leon :thumbsup:

[gbeal]

Leon,
I agree with Jase, but tend to suggest that most any scope will satisfy the guiding requirements. In my case I use an old and not too expensive Celestron NexStar 80, which is 400mm focal length. Something like this will be all you require, and if you use a ToUcam like me, the best thing you will buy is the Losmandy guidescope rings (in my case DR105).
Then both the FSQ, and the guidescope need to be affixed together. In my case I use a home made side by side, essentlially a homebrew DSBS that Losmandy also make. I can dig a picture out if it helps. I have also used the guidescope on top, as pictured.
I use K3 CCD Tools for the software, but others (although not me) have had success with PHD.
Really you need to sidle up to someone and see what they have, and how they use it. It can be scary to start with, but it is the only way, unless you are a masochist like Tornado 33.
Gary

[leon]

Thanks Gary, this a is a good starting point for me, i'm not in a great hurry, but i will certainly check it all out.

Leon

[gbeal]

Leon,
au contrare, you need to get cracking with this guiding thing. If you put it off too long you will talk yourself out of it. If you don't already have a ToUcam, you will need one for lunar and planetary imaging anyway. Then most any small refractor and a set of rings will do, the whole thing can be self made. Even the software is free (PHD).
Gary

[JohnG]

Hi Leon

Got to agree with what everyone is saying here.

I use a side by side setup with my FS-102, G-11/Gemini combination, I use a SkyWatcher ED-80 as the guidescope with an ST-4 autoguider and Canon EOS 350D camera.

Cheers

JohnG

[leon]

Thanks Cary, and John, I will give it a go i think, but i'll have to do a little research first.

Leon

[jase]

Hi Leon,
Indeed would suggest you read up before making the leap. It may seem daunting initially, but really it isn't difficult.

Here are some links and resources to help you gain a better understanding on guiding;
http://www.thrushobservatory.org/sig/Autoguiding.ppt (http://www.thrushobservatory.org/sig/Autoguiding.ppt)
http://www.store.shoestringastronomy.com/products_gp.htm
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TRACKED/AUTOG.HTM
http://www.ccdware.com/resources/autoguidercalcv4.cfm
http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=1369

[leon]

Thank You Jase for the links, this will keep me busy for some time.

Leon