DSLR full spec modification / clear filter

[Nightingale]

I am planning to modify a cheapo canon 600d that i have. The question i have is, do i need to place a clear filter in front of the sensor?
and if so where can i get this from? (besides having to order it directly from astronomik)? anyone selling it here in Australia?
and after i do this, will it still produce normal daytime photos with an external OWB clip filter?

[bojan]

No need for filter... for AP.

For everyday photography, you will need additional UVIR filter (and custom white balance) - but without clear glass, your autofocus will also be off.
However, being 600d, you can focus via live view to overcome this.

[redbeard]

http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html

A good place to start. Gary Honis page. Covers a few models.

[Nightingale]

ok.. if say i do not install a clear filter to a full spectrum modification, what other filters would i need for astrophotography? will a UHC do? or do i still need a UV/IR cut filter to get rid of the excess red the camera will produce..

[bojan]

UVIR filter may be needed if you use this camera with refractor, but it is not needed with reflector.
Other filters.. that depends of what you are doing. not needed at the beginnings (IMO).

[RyanJones]

IMHO firstly I would say to keep your astro camera for astro. Yes you can use IR/UV filters and custom white balances to take day time photographs but in my experience, you’ll tire of switching between the two very quickly.

As far as clear glass replacement vs no replacement, I’ve done both. I found that my images came out better with no glass. However, don’t underestimate how much this changes the focus point of the camera. It is quite significant. To the point where on my F/4 imaging newt, I run out of focuser travel and have fitted a parfocal collar to my MPCC to give me the extra length I needed. This was never even close to an issue with my clear glass camera. Not to say it’s not possible or even a bad idea, just something to keep in mind.

As far as other filters are concerned. The STC duo and L-Enhance filters are gold. But as Bojan said, that can wait till later.

[Nightingale]

You are probably correct... i might just stick to astrophotography.. besides, i doubt i’ll ever use it for daytime work.. hate the idea of carrying bulky equipment around my neck in the first place.. never heard of those filters that you mentioned.. so which is better? STC duo or L enhanced? And where do i get them from?

[Merlin66]

I use a fully modded 1000D, both internal filters removed.
When used with a telescope, you will need a UV-IR filter to suppress the NIR.
If you intend to use standard camera lenses, then a clip in clear filter will allow them to focus.

[casstony]

The 600D is quite a good daytime camera but it's very noisy as an astro-camera except in near zero temperatures.

The Nikon D5300,5500,5600's are much less noisy and also even easier to modify.

Of course if you have no other use for the 600D it's fine to start with. I started using our only camera (a Canon 600D) then moved to a nikon d5600 to get less noise then modified that to increase Ha signal. Our 600D has gone back to being a daytime camera - autofocus is fast when looking through the viewfinder.

I don't have any filter in the camera and use a 2" L-Enhance with the telescope (purchased from Cyclops Optics)

[glend]

The Gary Honis website is a great guide for Canon astro mods. I have modified, and cooled, several 450Ds over the years. Rcheshire here on IIS has good info on cooling if your interested in going that way at some point.
With Gary's mod instructions, an important aid is to write down every thing you do when you take the camera apart. You don't want to reassemble and find left over screws etc. I used to use a run sheet and tick off each step for disassembly and then reverse for reassembly.. Have fun.

[RyanJones]

I have the STC Duo which I ordered online. It’s an excellent filter although it really changes the way you process your images especially colour balance. It’s also more difficult to retain star colours. There are several others on this forum using the L-Enhance which is not only cheaper but from what I can gather it also has a wider bandpass for the O3 end of the spectrum. I personally haven’t used it so I can’t give you an accurate appraisal. The guys on here using it are producing some really nice images though.

[DaBris]

Nightingale, how did you go with the modification?
I am looking to do my canon 60d, full spectrum mod.
Any pointers for me?
Cheers
Daniel

[websteremma7]

Hi everyone, I'm in a similar position, looking to self-modify my Olympus micro four thirds camera (em10ii) for Astro, and use STC clip-in filters. I've heard that NOT replacing the IR filter with clear glass can cause infinity focusing issues, can anyone advise about that? And if so, does anyone know where I can source replacement clear glass of the correct dimensions and thickness etc?? Cheers, Em

[Merlin66]

Em,
I’d love to help, but my experience is with modded Canon cameras.
The Canon has two inbuilt filters, one is a colour correction (this is the one usually removed to improve the chip sensitivity to red and Ha). The other front filter, in the Canon is an Anti-Alias/ dust shake filter.
The set-up I use has both these filters removed for the spectroscopy work I do.
When one or more of these filters is removed, it means that the standard photographic lens would focus at infinity.
The solution is to either replace the removed filter with a clear alternative, or add a Clip-in clear filter.
I don’t know what the equivalent arrangement is for your camera.

[websteremma7]

Thanks Ken, it's difficult to find info to guide me in this process for micro four thirds, seems like some people are suggesting online that I need 2.8mm thick clear glass to replace the Olympus IR filter, for autofocus to work... I'm not so worried by autofocus obviously for Astro, just hoping to confirm infinity focus is still achievable with no replacement glass... Em

[Merlin66]

Em,
My previous message needs editing:
""When one or more of these filters is removed, it means that the standard photographic lens would focus at infinity."
this should read:
When one or more of these filters is removed, it means that the standard photographic lens would NOT focus at infinity.

[websteremma7]

Yikes, important correction thank you!!

[bojan]

In most cases this is not an issue.
Many standard lenses can be focused "beyond" infinity on many camera bodies (meaning the modified camera + lens can still reach focus at infinity).
Usually modified cameras are used on telescopes or lenses designed for astrophotography, where the problem does not exist.
In the past I modified many lenses (mostly old Pentax/Zenith lenses or Canon FD to fit Canon body. So when I was re-assembling the lens, I was usually able to adjust focus as well, if needed.

However, to start playing with AP, try with standard camera.. there is always time to modify it later.

[miles-away]

Hi all. I am looking at modding a canon 700d for use with an ED72, but can’t decide whether to remove just the colour correction filter and leave the UVIR anti-alias filter in place, or remove both. I was planning on using an clip-in filter anyway, too avoid any infinity focus lens issues. I am in a Bortle 4 location, so LP doesn’t seem to be a huge factor for me. Does anyone have any suggestions as to whether to just get a clear glass clip-in filter, or remove the stock UVIR filter and use a UVIR clip-in filter (maybe Astronomik L-2)?
Is the stock UVIR filter sufficient?
Cheers, Travis.

[bojan]

Have a look at my journey here (http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=153419&highlight=rocolax)... Maybe you will find some answers to your questions.

[Merlin66]

Travis,
The FULL full mod (both filters removed) is more helpful for spectroscopy than AP.
Just do the basic mod.
A clear clip in filter will allow you to use and manually focus standard lenses.
The UV-IR blocking as per the original anti-alias filter is retained.

[rustigsmed]

yes i have done a clear glass full spectrum mod before, nice Ha response but star bloat was excessive.

i then used a clip in astronomik CLS-CCD filter which was great and took care light pollution and star bloat - there are plenty of other similar solutions out there now.

there is also a OWB (original white balance) filter you can use for regular daytime photography - although i would just use a different camera or custom edit the balance post processing tbh - plenty of cheap second hand dslr's which work great in daylight for about the same price as the filter!

[miles-away]

Thank you everyone for the responses.

The camera is solely for AP, so not worried about a white balance filter. I have the CLS-CCD filter and wondered whether the UV IR cutoff aspect of this filter was beneficial over the stock filter. But the CLS part may work against me with low light pollution?