First Light Guiding

[RyanJones]

Hi all,

After much playing around and spending money, I'm finally guiding. Based on advice, I've set up my guiding rig on one of my shorter length OTAs ( F/5 Newtonian ) first.

I've been playing around with the setup at home ( Bertole 8 ) skies which is never going to work for anything with no filter but this is more about learning guiding than producing anything worthwhile.

So here it is, Running Chicken Nebula ( yes I know you can't see it ). Single sub , 4 mins long @ ISO 100 .

I could have used my CLS filter but it doesn't fit with my coma corrector ( time to spend more money on a 2" UHC ) unless anyone can suggest a better fix. Incidentally this is also the first time I've used my coma corrector at the correct spacing.

I'm pretty happy and I'm now looking forward to using it at a dark site / with a good enough LP filter.

[raymo]

Use a clip in CLS filter.
raymo

[RyanJones]

I don't have a clip in CLS filter, I have a T-thread one that I use with my SCTs. To be honest, I'm not a great fan of the colour cast with it but I use it because on the F/10s it blocks less overall light. Given this setup is F/5, I'm confident to go with a much stronger filter.

As far as the guiding goes though ????

[raymo]

By sheer coincidence I have a Svbony CLS clip in for Canon, which is new
unused, duplicated Xmas gift. $60 inc standard postage, PM me if you're interested.
raymo

[RyanJones]

Thank you kindly for your offer Raymo.

PM sent.

[Startrek]

Ryan
Is your image processed ?
Most Canon DSLR’s have an ISO sweet spot at ISO800 I’ve never imaged at 100 ?
I image in Sydney ( 25km from CBD ) under Bortle 8 skies with my 6” f6 newt and don’t use a CLS filter in my Canon 600D unmodded even though I have one. Also I have 2 story house either side of me with wall lights and backyard floods unnecessarily on most of the night ( so annoying)
Here’s a 2 minute PHD2 guided sub of a cluster M22 and a post processed image after using Startools which wiped all the light pollution away
I have other image of M42 with similar good results see photos attached
You must be under worse than Bortle 8 skies as I can post process and remove most of the light pollution with Startools
What is your guiding set up ?
Martin

[RyanJones]

Hi Martin,

I've only colour balanced it which to be fair gave it much better contrast straight off the bat. It's on my modified 350d.

I normally image at 800 too but I used 100 for the simple reason that 2 mins at 800 gave me an entirely white screen on the back of my camera.

I'm totally open to suggestions on what I can do to help myself in this area.

The Guide setup is a Nexguide on a Skywatcher 80/400.

[ChrisV]

Guiding looks good Ryan, nice stars. The world is yours.

[RyanJones]

Thank you Chris.

I don't know if the world is quite mine yet but I'm happy to be enjoying my little piece of it.

[raymo]

Nothing will help you in that area Ryan, you'll have to move to another one.:lol:

Its not actually quite right that most Canons have the sweet spot at 800; some are 800, such as the 600D, some are 1000, some are 1600, such as the 1100D.
The various models also have quite noticeable differences in Ha sensitivity.
raymo

[Startrek]

Ryan
Using a modded DSLR in heavy light polluted skies is really difficult due to your white balance and other issues
That’s why I didn’t mod mine and I’m still getting great images under all that sky glow
I set my white balance to auto AWB ( not daylight ) and it’s working well
Go to Jerry Lodriguss website and he has a detailed list of Astro settings for Canon DSLR’s which I have used for 2 years and work well
Cheers

[multiweb]

Good stuff. :thumbsup: A whole new world of possibilities ahead now.

[RyanJones]

Raymo,

A place that has black skies is on the cards for the future :thumbsup:

Martin,

Thanks for the tip. I'll check out his settings advice. :thumbsup:

Marc,

Thank you :)

[Startrek]

Ryan
I admire your courage and enthusiasm using a modded DSLR under adverse conditions
Great work keep going !

Two guys that have been an immense help using my DSLR for AP are -
Jerry Lodriguss - astropix.com
Trevor Jones - astrobackyard.com

Cheers

[xelasnave]

Good for you Ryan I know who I can ask for guiding advice now☺
Alex

[ChrisV]

Where's that Jerry Lodriguss stuff Martin? Sounds very useful.

[RyanJones]

Thank you Martin. I've seen a bit of Trevor Jones' stuff and I'll check out Jerry Losdriguss. Thank you for the tops and encouragement.

[RyanJones]

I've seen and follow your work Alex. Please only come to me if you want to go backwards. I can't wait till I have data like yours to play with.

[Startrek]

Chris and Ryan
Jerry Lodriguss has been involved in astrophotography for over 40years and hails from Philadelphia in the US.He has a series of on line tutorials for beginner DSLR astrophotography which I can thoroughly recommend.You can purchase them from astropix.com
I have two of them -
A beginners guide to DSLR Astrophotography
A guide to DSLR Planetary imaging
These are a great resource to have , I’m always referring back to various parts to double check things
You often find Jerry on the US Astro forum “cloudy nights” and various other Astro media from books to YouTube clips etc
Cheers

[traveller]

Ryan, congratulation on your images, they are a great start.
I’d repeat what others have said
1. Get a LP filter, I found CLS-CCD to be the best, followed by IDAS-LPS.
2. Colour balance your modified DSLR. this will result in better quality raw frames and therefore end result.
3. I tend to use ISO 800-1600 and around 2-3 mins subs. With f5, I think 2 mins are sufficient.
4. Use darks, biases and flats. Calibration frames are essential in DSLR work.
5. Keep doing it. Attend a star party (are you coming to the snake valley camp?)
Cheers
Bo

[RyanJones]

Hi Bo,

1. I have a CLS filter which is good for my f10s but I don't like the colour cast indicative of this filter. I'm thinking of going for a UHC for the Newt because I have luminance to play with unless anyone can suggest why I shouldn't ?

2. Do you have a link as to how to do this ? I'd love to balance it in camera if I can.

3. I normally do use 800-1600. I just didn't on this one because the sky blew the shot out and it was more about a guiding test than getting an image.

4.i always use calibration frames but didn't on this one again because it was a guiding test.

5. I haven't been to a star party but I'm sure I will at some point.

Thank you for your input Bo :)

[traveller]

Good to hear Ryan.
I used Astronmik UHC-s filter but I found it a bit too harsh (images looking flat). The CLS-CCD gives much contrast images.
If you are free to come to snake valley, get in touch with Malcolm (barx) as I am sure he can accomodate you.
Bo

[gb44]

http://www.astropix.com/

This is Jerry Lodriguss's website.

GlennB

[Ant0nio]

Congrats Ryan, utilizing auto guiding is a huge breakthrough & judging by your image you've got it working well right off the bat. Well done:thumbsup:
Cheers,
Tony

[gb44]

Hi
Re; filters in Bortle 6+ skies with OSC and DSLR

Maybe this filter STC-Duo will be useful
https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/astronomy-filters/stc-astro-duo-narrowband-filter-48mm-2/

Some good reviews there. I like the one comparing the IDAS filter. Cost is about $500AU, hmmm

Here is another for $300. Also impressive.
https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/filters/stc-astro-multispectra-filter/

Cheers
GlennB

[RyanJones]

Hi Glenn,

Thank you for the links. The spectra lines on the $300 one don't look too dissimilar to the CLS I have. The $500 looks really good though. 1 stop short of going narrowband. Only problem is it's pretty much the price of 2 seperate narrowband filters.

Thank you for you input Glenn. It's given me food for thought :thumbsup:

Hi Tony,

Thank you for the encouragement :thumbsup: