Solar imaging scope

[Marke]

I'm considering a Lunt 60mm B1200 single stack for imaging and some observing , above this the cost goes up dramatically
Is there anything else I should look at and is the double stack worth the extra investment ?

[GUS.K]

Hi Mark, the Lunt 60 is a great scope for visual and imaging. The doublestack is good for enhancing any surace detail, especially for visual but being in solar minimum it's probably not worth getting. A Coronado 60 would also be another option as would a Daystar quark, which can be used on your own scopes up to 150mm. I've had both Coronado and Lunt scopes, and at 60mm the views are similar, but the Lunts build quality is better and I prefer the pressure tuned units. A BF1200 would be more than enough for imaging. The pictures below were taken through my DS Lunt60 around 2014.

[Marke]

Thanks for that and the example images nice to see what it can do .
Would going up to the 80mm single be much of a step apart from the price .

[Merlin66]

I generally agree with Gus...
My experience is with PST/ PST Mods/ SM60 with various telescopes and blocking filters.
Double stack is perfect for enhancing surface detail but an expensive option.
For narrow field observations, I have to say there’s not much to beat the Daystar Quark.
I have used PST Mods to give cost effective large aperture solar telescopes.
Hope this helps.

[Marke]

Thanks for that my only reservation with the Daystar is it's availability. Seems like I may look at just single stack :thumbsup:

[GUS.K]

I've looked through a few Lunt 80 scopes and I also own an LS100, and like any other scope aperture wins, especially for visual. For imaging the LS60 is fine and it's also good visually, when there is something to see.

[Peter Ward]

The Lunt 80mm is hard to go past in terms of bang for buck....that said, all of their pressure tuned etalons can suffer from "hot spots" that, particularly if imaging is your goal, can give uneven illumination to full disk images.

Well tuned, a front etalon 90mm system can deliver this sort of image
(http://www.atscope.com.au/BRO/gallery336.html)
A front mounted etalon on the telescope of your choice will deliver the most consistent field illumination, but the rub is that is your most costly option.

I would not go under 60mm in aperture. 90mm is a "sweet spot" that balanced resolution/seeing/cost, unfortunately Lunt don't make a 90mm etalon...I covet their 100mm etalons...but only you can decide whether that or their 60mm will fit the bill.

P.S.
For correctness I should also point I am a Lunt Dealer, but use original Coronado (read pre-Meade) filters (made at the time by Andy Lunt's dad :) )

[Marke]

Thanks Peter comes down to cost and how much use I'll get
So probably be a toss up between the 60 or 80 Lunt as much as we all want the biggest and best .

[Peter Ward]

Johnny Walker had a great advert: "do you want to take home the Scotch you want to drink or the one you want to pay for?" ;)

[Marke]

Been looking at the Daystar Quark a bit more closely and thinking that may be the way to go and its a lot less expensive than the equivalent Solar scope ?

[Merlin66]

There are some amateurs getting great results with the Quark, just check out the solar chat forum.
Won’t give you full disk imaging capabilities but close detail excellent.
Needs an >f6 scopes as a minimum.
I disagree with Peter, in that good views and imaging can be achieved with more cost effective 60mm solar scopes. Sure, a 90mm Coronado or 100mm Lunt would be great....but at a hellava price!!:eyepop:

[Marke]

I already have an 80 f5 and a 102 f7 thats what makes it attractive should get whole disk on the 80 from what i understand . Cost is a fraction of a dedicated scope and yes the prices of those bigger scopes for a first time are just insane .

[multiweb]

So it's 40c and you're going to image the sun? What a trooper. :P

[Marke]

You bet mate :thumbsup: I just pulled the trigger on a Daystar
and an asi290mm I don't even have to be outside now I can go inside with the ac running and image away happily in comfort :D:D:thumbsup:

[Merlin66]

Well done!
A suggestion....some of the Quark users add a x0.5 reducer to the nose of the camera to give a wider field...may be worth considering.

(I have the HEQ5 out on the veranda, this carries the solar scope of choice, which is fitted with a SW focus motor. All the cables have been extended to allow operation from within the study a few meters indoors. I used to use a 80 lt. grey bin with gaffa taped lid/ dark sheet on a card table, next to the mount but got fed up with the background reflections from the laptop screen. Just perfect now!)

[multiweb]

You could fire up the weber with that. :lol:

[Marke]

Thanks good idea with the reducer I'll look into that.
The Daystar was just too cheap not to consider in the end especially when I have 2 refractors with motorised focusers which would have been added expense :thumbsup:

[Marke]

Yes from across the other side of the yard probably :D

[Peter Ward]

Sure, 60mm is good, but why settle for being Mr. average? :)

I started with a Coronado 40mm, then 60mm, then 90mm then double stack 90mm. The 60mm was OK, but the 90mm was a revelation.

[Merlin66]

Peter,
I agree.... if your seeing conditions can support the larger aperture.
Send me a 100mm H alpha scope and I’d love to test in the conditions down here at St Leonards on the Bay.....I’m 21 meters above the sea, 500mtr away.

[Peter Ward]

Sure. VISA or Mastercard? :)

[Marke]

And what is the price of a ds 90 ?

[Merlin66]

:):)

[Peter Ward]

The Meade/Coronado 90mm etalons look to be around $USD2500 each...but I can not recommend them.

My original Coronado (made in USA) etalon has significantly better performance (darker background and narrower bandpass) compared to my since added on Meade-Coronado (made in Mexico) Double Stack unit that came later.

DS with a BF30 you'd be looking at $USD6500 ...well over $10,000 Pacific Pesos with GST and shipping....

I suspect however that the days of $USD hegemony are coming to an end,
hence should the $AUD get beyond parity again, I'd be buying the Lunt 100mm in a heartbeat.

[Merlin66]

Peter,
Hmmm
I can't find any SME-90 filters in the US - In the UK they are shown as 2720bgp ($5400) - to get a DS double this cost!! Plus say a BF15 at us699 ($1000) Brings it in at around $11,800
http://www.meadeuk.com/Coronado-Etalon-Units.html

For the Lunt there's only 50mm,60mm and 100mm external DS etalons ( the others are internal)
https://luntsolarsystems.com/product-category/hydrogen-alpha-solar-filters/

The LS100FHa is us$5498, then the B1200 (us648) or the B1800 (us$998) either way to get a DS external 100mm Lunt system it's well over S16,600)

Plus the GST, shipping etc etc etc.

[glend]

Sorry for jumping in late. Looking at a basic solar scope for imaging. Is the Daystar Scout 60mm the most cost effective solution?

[Merlin66]

Check out the review on Cloudy Nights.https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/629774-introducing-daystars-60mm-double-stack-solar-scout-scope-695/page-2

[glend]

Thanks Ken, reading that thread it looks as if the Scout is not a good imaging choice. Am I right in that the Quark can be used on any decent achromat? I have a very nice 127mm iStar R30 f12 (which is an open tube TCR design, so likely no heat issues as long as you don't stick your finger in the Light path).

[Marke]

Yes you can use it on any scope you just need to add an uv filter on the diag nothing needed on the front

[Merlin66]

The Chromo Quark (the most popular version) has a built in x4 telecentric to provide the necessary f25/ f30 beam in "normal" telescopes.
Used in an f12 system the resulting f48 is OK optically but would limit the FOV dramatically.
An f5 to f8 scope is probably preferred.

A Combo version (no built in x4) is said to be suitable for >f15 systems.
http://www.daystarfilters.com/COMBOQuark.shtml

By adding a x2 teleconvertor in front of the quark, you get around f24 which would be OK.
A minimum of a UV-IR cut filter as an ERF is recommended for apertures above 80mm and less than 120mm
See page 4:
http://www.sunfield.ne.jp/~oshima/data/DaystarQuark/QuarkManual.pdf

Above that aperture a full aperture ERF is recommended.

(Many of us use the Baader 35nm CCD filter as a sub-diameter ERF, gives superior energy reduction than the UV-IR cut and is optically identical to the highly recommended Baader D-ERF)
Hope this helps.

[glend]

Yes Ken that does help. So a 2x Barlow (which I have) on my f12, is the go, along with an ERF (like the Baader). FOV would be limited I understand. Quark on the back, with camera. Thanks guys.

[Merlin66]

Glen,
Hmmmm, no.
You need a telecentric like the TV Powermates, or the ES/ Meade tele-extender. A conventional barlow will give possible problems with the back focus distance.
The Baader 35nm should be mounted on the front of the telecentric...

[Ukastronomer]

Snap

[Ukastronomer]

Except that is a one trick horse, with a Quark you can use on a scope and remove for astronomy, or place on other scopes,

[FrancoRodriguez]

Does the Daystar quark need a front end filter on the telescope? If not I would be a bit worried about the sun's powerful rays wreaking havoc with the innards of the scope, no? I'm very ignorant with respect to solar stuff

[Merlin66]

Francisco,
The Quark is designed to work with all refractors.
No need for a front mounted ERF, but the use of an internal UV/IR is recommended for larger apertures.

[Ukastronomer]

I have lost count of the times I have said NO erf filter is needed under 150mm

Quote FROM Daystar

The UV/IR cut filter in front of the diagonal is enough. It is enough until the refractor is 150mm or above.


Tiffany