Where to buy a modded camera.

[xelasnave]

I would like a modded camera.
Not sure of the benefits but perhaps someone can help guide me here as well.
I have a Nikon D5500 and would like to buy on of these modded if possible and wonder if anyone can suggest a reputable reliable place to buy that have been good and helpful to you.
And what filters would be useful for such a modded camera.
All I am thinking even though a cooled astro camera and filter wheel is probably what I should be thinking of I think it would not be probaly best at the moment.
One feature of dslr for me is that I can run it on 30 second exposures so I dont have to set up guiding or the lap top...which is very handy at times.
I want to auto guide but being able to set up and take down fast is perhaps my biggest consideration for many reasons.
Thank you
Alex

[glend]

Alex, the Nikon D5300 through D5600 actually are pretty good astro cameras without any mods, one reason being that they lack a typical anti-alysing filter, which gives a sharper image while avoiding moire patterns. The sensor efficency is also first class among DSLRs. Have you had a look at images produced by that camera on Astrobin?

[xelasnave]

Thanks Glen so I am already there with my D5500?
I saw some loverly astro photos on astro bin only the other day.☺
Thanks Glen.
Alex

[glend]

I am not saying don't do it, just see how far you can go with the stock camera before you make that step. There is the cost of the mod, the smaller resale market down the track, and ruining daytime use unless you add back external filtration. The guys on the DSLR forum on CN can advise on who to send it to for an Ha mod.

[Camelopardalis]

Yeah I think that’s the same sensor as in my Fujifilm X-A3...in which case, I wouldn’t bother modding it.

Last year I remember it picking up Barnard’s Loop in 2 minute subs...

[Tony_]

Hello Alex,

CentralDS in South Korea have modded cooled cameras at reasonable prices.

Regards,
Tony.

[glend]

What do you consider a reasonable price?

[JA]

Hi Alex,

As an indication of price you can get a new Nikon D5600 body from $700 to $1000 depending upon where you'd like to shop in Australia. I can't comment on reputation or reliabilty,as requested, since I haven't shopped here, but as an indication of price here is a European (?) retailer that has modified D5600 cameras for the equivalent of $1830 (Ha Modified response) and $1980 (Full Spectrum Response).

For info....

https://www.astroshop.eu/digital-srl-cameras/nikon-camera-dslr-d5600a/p,53133

Best
JA

[ZeroID]

Buy a remote control trigger, cable or wireless, set the camera to BULB and you can run any length exposure within reason.
That's how I kicked off this obsession .. :thumbsup:

[xelasnave]

I have the remote.
I like the 30 seconds because it runs unattended...if going past 30 sec. s you have to time it switch on and off etc...
However I used the remote computer control during testing and that works for me.
But there is not much motivation to go past 30 seconds here as the sky glow does not let you run for long.
Up home long exposure was limited by the mount but here after 30 seconds at 1600 the sky goes funny...

Anyways none of this will feed the starving folk in Africa.

alex

[OzEclipse]

Alex,

There is an intervalometer called a Pixel TC-252. They're made for any camera.

Here is a version for your camera that costs $41 -
https://tinyurl.com/y92p9jbc

They have a number of modes. For astrophotographers they have an intervalometer mode.

Number of exposures . 0-9999
delay until first exposure 0-99h 99m 99s in 1s increments
interval between exposures 0-99h 99m 99s in 1s increments
length of shutter press at each exposure 0-99h 99m 99s in 1s increments

For example, you can set it to press the shutter 200 subs for 2 mins each at 5 min intervals. Leave the camera set to noise reduction on. Camera will take 2 min exposure, then 2 min dark, subtract the dark in camera and then write the file.

[xelasnave]

Thanks Joe I appreciate your advice and will chase one of those down.
Alex

[h0ughy]

http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=165352 there is one camera on the forum for sale now

[bojan]

Intervalometer for $15

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YongNuo-Time-Lapse-Intervalometer-Timer-remote-CANON-EOS-750D-760D-60D-70D-80D/162616566230?hash=item25dcb3e1d6:g: LLYAAOSw0kNXhyzb

[OzEclipse]

Bojan.
That’s for a canon. Won’t work on Alex’s Nikon D5500

Joe

[xelasnave]

Thanks for pointing to that one.
Alex

[xelasnave]

Thanks for trying to help.
Alex

[Camelopardalis]

The Pixel intervalometer works well, I used one for a couple of years with my Canon before I moved to computer control (for better or worse!).

I’d imagine the difference is the cable from the intervalometer to the camera. You’d be welcome to mine if you sourced a cable for your Nikon, but I’d suspect that only comes with the remote itself.

[OzEclipse]

Dunk, Alex,

You can buy the cables independent of the intervalometer for about $10 on ebay

Joe

[bojan]

[quote]
Bojan.
That’s for a canon. Won’t work on Alex’s Nikon D5500

Joe
[quote/]

Difference is only in cable..
Here (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Timer-Remote-Shutter-Release-Cord-for-Nikon-D7100-D7000-D5200-D5100-D3100-D90/253236937073?hash=item3af6190171:g: QMAAAOSwc6pZ-Zhn) is version for Nikon.

[LightningNZ]

I got my intervalometer for my D5100 for $16. If the D5500 has the same connection as earlier cameras this one will work for $9. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MC-DC2-Remote-Control-Shutter-Release-Cable-for-Nikon-D3300-D5300-D610-D7200-D90/371869487181?hash=item569526104d:g: 1cYAAOSwtfhYpnPY

Cheers,
Cam

[chromus]

Peeps seem to have gotten hung up on triggers rather than 30sec unguided full spectrum ability.

Short subs, for similar cost to the nikon camera -> Altair Hypercam 183C, its cooled, its full spectrum, it has a backlit sensor, its sensitivity allows unguided 30secs easily.

Astrobackyard has rave reviews, the pics on astrobin are great.

[xelasnave]

I had not thought of such an approach.
It will do up to 1000 seconds in "trigger mode" ...cooling is a fan.
Less complicated than narrow band.
I expect zwo may have a similar camera but maybe peltie cooled.
Sure something to think about...better than $4500 for a nikon "astronomy" camera...but it is 36 meg I think.
Alex

[chromus]

Mine arrives next week, (stupid Canada post shipped it airmail not EMS :( )

It can be used with native support in SharpCap allowing even more control than the listed stuff on the site.

In essence you could use it with the next version SharpCap to get polar align, plate solve the imaging align, then shoot your sequence from 1 piece of software.

The sequence is still in Alpha stage, but the beta won't be far away as the author is expecting full release june/july.

[Camelopardalis]

The IMX183 is a good sensor, but the pixels are tiny so tracking and good polar alignment will be critical in avoiding showing up errors in either.

Also note that the amp glow is also not insignificant, so you will want to calibrate best you can with some darks, which is made harder by the Altair camera not being temperature regulated.

[chromus]

You’re forgetting that it isn’t intended to be a hardcore Astro camera, it’s intended to be a mid market step between DSLR and the hardcore gear.

The results i saw when researching my buy were excellent.

[Camelopardalis]

It may not be “hardcore”, whatever that is, but it is not without its flaws, no camera is. The IMX183 has the potential to be an excellent camera.

I raise this as I own an IMX178 based camera - the ZWO ASI178MM-Cool - which employs the same technology as the IMX183, the latter being a larger (more megapixels) version of the former, so I’m not speculating idly from anecdotal internet reports.

All of the Sony sensors suffer from amp glow to a greater or lesser extent. With the 178, the starburst glow is in the top right corner, whereas with the 183 it’s centre right.

To use shorter exposures at high gain will provoke the evil amp glow. It’s tricky to calibrate out using appropriate methods with the ZWO camera. Others may be better.

Then there’s the demon of sensor size. The 183 is 1/3 the size of the APS-C Nikon sensor. At the same focal length, that’s a lot of FOV to lose. And Nikon have already added circuitry/software to eliminate the amp glow. Maybe Altair have too?

[chromus]

Head over to the astrobackyard site and read the reviews.

[Camelopardalis]

Like I said, maybe they have dealt with the amp glow in ways others haven’t :shrug: