cleaning and lubrication PMX mount

[graham.hobart]

Hi all, I am having a real job finding the pdf instructions for re greasing the PMX. Seems not to be obvious on the software bisque website. Anyone have a link or copy they can send me?
cheers
Graham

[Somnium]

Having just done this, it was pretty straight forward. SB have a video called lubricating your paramount on YouTube , check it out.

[PRejto]

Graham,

Is yours the otriginal MX or MX+. The internals are totally different. There is a Youtube video on the MX but it is missing an important step (later added by SB) re the 1/4-20s so be sure to follow the printed pdf version along with the video (which is good except for the important missing step).

Peter

[graham.hobart]

Well I followed a tute on line and found I couldn't even get the motor out- it kept sticking on the underneath of the worm block housing which tilted it, which then made the small gear at the end catch on the worm block chassis and could not slide it out. Incidentally whilst I had the cover off I found the RA timing belt was slightly frayed and grey.
Going on the SB website the only replacement ones are grey also.
I thought the best ones to get are the black ones?
help please
NB still cannot find the pdf instructions.
graham

[gregbradley]

There is a video by Chris Venter showing replacing the worm block.

I don't think you need to remove the worm block just to regrease it. With the PME you simply exercise the mount and use a stiff artists brush (Bunnings sells them in the paint section) and get out the old grease then add in the new in reverse. It takes about 10 minutes tops each worm.

The belts should not fray. If its shedding material it gets on that little gear on the end of the motor and can cause PE bumps and spikes.

The bad ones were black the new ones are grey although my PME has black belts. They seemed in excellent condition. The grey ones for the PMX are higher quality and do not shed or fray. How old is your PMX? SB says to regrease once a year.

If you change the belts you'll need to clean out the shedded black rubber bits from the gears with something pointy.

Also if you do remove the worm block you need to put some masking tape on the end of your Allen key or use allen keys that are magnetized otherwise getting that long screw to go in horizontally all that distance is next to impossible and it can fall inside requiring heroics to get it out (I did it twice!).

Greg.

[graham.hobart]

on the pmx you have to move the worm block to get access to the large gear. That's why the motor has to come out first.
This is what the SB video says anyway and if you don't , there is only a small 1cm? area of worm gear visible to degrease/grease.
good news about the grey belts though. :thumbsup:

[Somnium]

Hi Graham, do you have a PMX or a PMX+, i did this on the weekend, and i loved it so much that i did it three times (i stupidly changed the Dec axis) it was pretty straight forward. there are just 4 screws holding the motor on with a cable that needs to be detached.

[graham.hobart]

HI
Somnium
it's a PMX
what I followed was this ..
remove 4 long allen bolts to remove cam stop cover
remove 4 screws (3 with washer and one without) to loosen motor

the motor should then slide out once rotated and then you are are supposed to
undo the four screws holding the worm block to remove WB and expose the big gears...
The RA axis in my case is sticking where I can't seem to rotate the motor and pull it clear of the bottom of the worm gear housing- its quite a tight gap and it just doesn't seem to want to come and I don't want to force it.
Its a real bummer as I was all set up and ready to continue and then I had to re-assemble everything and go to work.
:shrug:

[Somnium]

ahh okay, it is considerably easier with the PMX+, the worm block comes out after removing the cover by removing the 4 bolts and that is it, you have access to the RA gear.

[graham.hobart]

They must have re-designed the housing for PMX +.
Cheers all, anyway .