Newbie with canon dslr

[Jemmo]

Hey guys so I just got my first dslr camera a canon d350 I also have a 10inch dob I know I won't get deep space objects because I don't have tracking mount but can I get half decent photos of nebula? If not I don't mind but I'm also after tips to get good planetary photos.

[Jemmo]

Do you use the T adaptor through a Barlow and then use the camera zoom to get a close image? Also do you take lots of burst photos then stack them or a different method?

[janoskiss]

First off try for the Moon.

Second, without tracking you can get good widefield shots with a camera lens. Relatively short exposures of the Milky Way (up to several seconds). You can take multiple exposures and combine them with software like DSS (deep sky stacker). Stick to wide to widish angle lenses (<40mm). You will still get some motion blur from the sky moving but you can downscale the image to mitigate that.

Next thing may be to get a basic tracking mount and use a telephoto lens or short focal length refractor. Do stuff without guiding first. Just learn about tracking. Then add guiding and learn that. Then you'll be in good shape to move up to bigger scopes with narrower FOV and more expensive equipment.

Forget about using your 10" Dob/Newt for a while. It's definitely doable but you'll need a mount that costs very roughly 10x your scope and a lot of effort and skill.

I know it's very attractive to want to do what pros or highly experienced amateurs are doing off the bat but it's kind of like learning to play the piano. You cannot start with Liszt Rhapsodies or Rachmaninov Concertos. You've got to do your Czerny first ...

[Jemmo]

I got the camera for just general use and like the camera I got the scope just for viewing. I'm not going to buy a new scope or mount because I don't have the money to get right into Astro photography. I'm just curious if I can get some good photos of planets. I see dsos are well out of my reach for my scope and mount

[raymo]

To take up Steve's point, you can get decent shots of the moon at prime
focus [camera body only], or with a 2x barlow. DSLRs suffer from vibrations from the mirror and the shutter. You can reduce the effects by locking the mirror up in cameras that have that feature. The best results will come from
using a high shutter speed [the exposure is over before the vibrations really get under way. I suggest 1/3200th or 1/4000th, and get the right
exposure by changing the ISO, 1600 will probably be fairly close.
raymo

[rustigsmed]

hi adrian
you need a t ring , if your barlow screws in that is a bonus but many barlows don't. if not get a 2" adapter for the t mount.

http://www.bintel.com.au/Astrophotography/Camera-Adapters---T-Rings/Nikon-T-Ring/1227/productview.aspx

http://www.bintel.com.au/Astrophotography/Camera-Adapters---T-Rings/Bintel-Camera-Adapter--2--/35/productview.aspx

really it is for the planets, use video mode and RegiStax 6.

otherwise if you want deep sky you should probably go widefield as suggested below.

only a few small targets may work with super short exposures: eg, the homunculus nebula, ghost of jupiter the bug nebula, the saturn neb, any small bright planetary neb is your best chance.

[redbeard]

Hi Adrian,
As mentioned, it would be very difficult to get good photos of Nebula etc with your scope/camera because you really need tracking for that. Perhaps try to start with the Orion neb using as wide field as you can with short subs. You will soon see how challenging that will be.

Planets are a little easier but still challenging. The good part is you take video rather than stills, and with video, if you move the image around a bit whilst 'filming', the software for post processing will align the frames, so to speak.

Again, start with wide field first, (no barlow), that way the planet will not be moving as fast in your FOV, as you are 'zomed out'. The image will be smaller however without the barlow, but easier to keep on target in the FOV. If all goes well, add the barlow and try that. I'm guessing that you already have viewed the planets through your scope with an eyepiece and know how to find them.

Use video capture software to aquire images and then the files can be opened with free software Registax or similar for processing.
But you have a 350D and how does it fit in here. Normally for planets, you would use a CCD webcam or better video camera that you can see 'live/capture' in your software so you can easily frame etc. Or a later DSLR that has live view will also do the trick. But your 350D does not have live view so that is an issue! You won't be able to see the planet in your video capture software.

Now there is something you can try, I noticed that the 350D has a video out jack on it, you could connect this up to a 'video monitor' that accepts the RCA yellow video plug. I have not used this but worth investigating as you will then have a live view, (assuming that's what it does). The other thing, is your 350D does not support video so you will not be able to do video. I have a 450D and even though this has live view, it does not have video. I use some software called Backyard EOS which is fantastic. Somehow, it can get planet imaging with our type of cameras, and it takes lots of stills and turns them into an AVI video!

One other gotcha for the 350D is that that when you are using software to get you image you need to make up a special cable to go from a serial port to the camera but it is not RS232, its like a switch. With the later model Canons, you only need the USB cable. In your camera the USB is only for downloading the images. Not a deal breaker though as you can use other methods for triggering.

I would say that the combination you have is not the best to do anything easily and if you upgraded to at least a DSLR that had both live view and video then you solve most of the issues. The only other catch you may have is back focus for you 350D and the DOB. I have read articles here on IIS thay may be worth searching for that talk about that.

So when I had my 10" DOB, I found that a Philips Toucam was the best thing for getting images of the moon, planets, (still a bit difficult), the moon and the moon. I also have a 350D, and know its limitations for imaging the universe. If you had a Meade ETX 125 or greater, (my first planet imaging scope), LXxxx or similar other scope that had tracking, then you would be able to use your camera for some DSO's.

Happy to clarify anything.

Be great to hear how you progress.

Cheers,
Damien.

[raymo]

If your Dob is a Skywatcher[Saxon] back focus will not be an issue.
raymo

[Jemmo]

Ok guys thanks for all the info so in short probly stick to photos of moon only through the scope and milky way photos etc with just the camera alone 😊

[ZeroID]

Planets are doable with video through the DOB once you get the hang of it. But good idea to start with the moon, single shots, then short videos and stacking. Easy to see and setup, nice and bright, easy to focus. Single exposures will be low ISO, 200 or so and quite short exposures, 1/125 or similar. The moon is BRIGHT !! Get a remote cable to reduce any movement caused by you touching things.

Then you have to figure out stacking for the videos, Registax6 or Avistack, both free. That should keep you busy and frustrated for a few months getting it all right.

Then try the video thing on planets, same process but harder because they are further away and air stability becomes a factor in resolution.
Widefield longer exposures next, you will learn to deal with rotation, trailing and light pollution.

By about that stage you should be on higher pay and committed ....

You have a long journey ahead of you young padawan...

Welcome to the dark side. :D :fight: