Need Anti-reflection advice on custom part

[PRejto]

I have a beautifully made custom part to attach a TAK TOA-67 to my ONAG XT with absolute minimum back focus. I would have had Ashley make it but he did not have the inside thread size for the 67FF. Thus, I used a local shop to insure a perfect fit. Using the inside vs outside threads saved ca 4 mm of BF.

The aluminium part needs to be anodized or painted. I noticed that Ashley's anodizing is quite anti-reflective compared to the polished look on the outside. I'm not at all sure if a local anodize job would be able to do this so I'm thinking about painting. Anyone know of the proper paint? Other ideas?

Thanks!

Peter

[Shiraz]

Easily the best is Nextel velvet black, which used to be available locally in spray cans, but there doesn't seem to be anyone in Aus that stocks it these days. If you find any, please let us know.

otherwise, an Australian version of this is probably worth trying: http://www.gerdneumann.net/english/instrument-building-parts-teile-fuer-den-fernrohrbau/totmatte-schwarze-optikfarbe-deep-black-optical-paint.html

[glend]

If your painting aluminium you will need an etch primer first and that will ruin your nice surfaces. What about anodising or power coating?

[PRejto]

Thanks Glen and Ray,

I found a Dulux chalkboard product I might try together with Gerd's advice to add some flour. I'll advise how this works out!

Peter

[gregbradley]

I've used that Dulux chalkboard and its very good.

There are blacker materials out there but I think they are not easy to source being US products.

Greg.

[cfranks]

I use Tamiya Matt Black TS-6 spray in a rattle can from a model car/plane/etc hobby shop. It's for plastic models but I Glass-Bead Blast my adapters, giving them a good key for the paint.
Charles

[LewisM]

I always use Dulux chalk board black. Never even sandblast or prime as it sticks tenaciously (a real b!tch to remove actually!). It is QUITE dark - not black black, but as dark as Takahashi's grey-black.

For the outside, I usually either use the fake-anodising red, blue or green clear lacquer (looks NICE!), or Tak green.

I have a large custom adapter for my Tak FSQ-106 being made now. It's a full 4" adapter. I will Dulux the inside and red or blue fake-anodise the outside - probably blue this time since it is a Tak fluorite with blue trim.

Will show how it looks after I get it.