Beginner Beginner

[Vivek]

I have taken the photos using sony nex 6 dslr (partial sensor) near adelaide (Jan 2015)
1st photo: ORION:
specs:ISO 3200, f3.5, 20 seconds, 16mm
2nd photo: milky way
specs : ISO 3200, F3.5, 20seconds, 16mm
I have tried to process the photos using capture one. I only have another lens 50mm (upto f1.8). I have not tried this lens yet. can the photos be improved with the lenses i have without having to spend a lot more on better lenses. Was happy that i managed to take a photo of the milky way but looking for ways to improve.
Could somebody tell me how to create multiple exposure images and stich them(specifically how to change the orientation of the camera- (?10-15 degree change for each exposure). How is this actually done? I do not have a timed shutter release. I have read that there should be atleast 50% overlap.

[dannat]

i presume you used the kit lens? its hard to tell with the clouds, but you have generally used good settings;it will be hard to capture much more light without getting a faster lens..you could look for the sony 16 or 20mm f2.8 lens or try rokinon manual lenses.

when processing make sure you adjust elvels & blk/wht point to make sure you get full use of the data collected; prob set long exp NR to ON

for pano stitching yes you need some overlap; maybe the 50mm f1.8 set at 2.8 & take 3-4 images; do you have a mac or PC -for PC you can try microsoft ICE, im not sure if capture one does stitching or not

[Vivek]

I used the kit lens (16-50mm). Next time I will try and use the 50mm (F 1.8) lens and take multiple exposures and see the output (after stitching). Will have to look into Microsoft ICE. For starters I am going to try the multiple exposures at the same focus as opposed to trying the pano. Not sure if I can be precise in changing the camera position to allow overlap without additional tools(????). At the moment I have a problem with the 16-50mm lens not being recognized on emount. Have sent it to Sony repair.
Will the rockinon lens fit on emount.

Thanks for the info!!!

Vivek

[TraKtorman]

What software do you have? Lightroom 6 has pano stitching. It works well. The Samyang 14mm f2.8 is a favourite with many, as is their 24mm f1.4. Generally on lenses etc. you might find this site informative.
http://www.lonelyspeck.com/lenses-for-milky-way-photography/
In my experience it's difficult to avoid spending money on this pastime.
Peter

[Vivek]

Thanks Peter!!! Very useful web link. At some stage i will try and get a better lens. What do you think about the the sony nex 16mm f2.8 (retails for 300$). i have seen a used one for 200$.Samyang 14mm f2.8 on e mount retails for 450$. Will there be a big difference? The downside of my camera is that its not a full frame. Did not realise the value of a full frame when i bought the sony. Bugger!!!!

still on the subject of pano. how do you move the camera precisely at a certain angle other than manually?
The software i have is capture one.

[TraKtorman]

I can't help you with the choice between the Sony and the Samyang. I use a Samyang on a full frame sensor, there is some vignetting but it is perfectly adequate. You can also address the vignetting to some extent in Lightroom. I have not used capture one so I am not familiar with its features. As for moving the camera, that is where a tripod and a mount like the nodal ninja really make a difference. (what did I say about spending money?) I have not tried to stitch a night scape pano taken without a tripod. In theory if you had sufficient overlap 20 to 30 degrees the stitching software should be able to join the frames . . . just keep trying and see what works and what doesn't.

[Vivek]

Hi Peter
I do use a tripod (not a nodal ninja). I probably gave you the impression that I change the position of the camera without a tripod. With my tripod I can only make a visual guess in the viewfinder. I hope to get the overlap right. Nodal Ninja looks like a great tripod but not in my current league. Thanks again for extra information!!!