Atik 314L+ mono filters

[kosh]

Hi all,

A couple of weeks ago I picked up the atik 314l+ in the mono flavour as my first foray into Mono CCD imaging.

I haven't actually had the opportunity to use it yet, but I'm looking for filters and a filter wheel.
I believe that 1.25" filters work fine, but if anyone out there has experience with this camera, I need confirmation that they are big enough before I shell out for yet more equipment :)
I'm planning on sticking them in an Orion nautilus electronic filter wheel.

Thanks.

[codemonkey]

1.25" are fine with the Atik 314L+, Goran. I've been using a 1.25 IR cut since I got my 314L+ and I've had no problems.

[pluto]

Yep 1.25" are fine, I used to use an LRGB set plus Ha, SII, OIII when I had my 314L+.
I used the Orion manual filter wheel http://www.bintel.com.au/Astrophotography/Filters/Orion-Filter-Wheel--1-25--/795/productview.aspx), it was fine and well built but if you've got the budget go for a motorised one.

It's a great little camera :D

[SamD]

I'm using Hugh's filters, wheel and 314L+ !! and as he says everything works well together.

I still find however I need to tweak the focus slightly when manually switching filters. This is definitely the case with a refractor, and also when I use a focal reducer on a reflector. If the intention is to go automated with the motorised wheel, you might need to look at auto-focussing too. On the other hand, you might get away without refocussing if you focus first sharply on L, followed by a run of RGB at Binx2.

[kosh]

Thanks guys, and my wallet thanks you all too. :lol:

I am planning on buying the Orion motorised as listed here: http://www.bintel.com.au/Astrophotography/Filters/Orion-Nautilus-Motorized-br--Filter-Wheel--1-25--/793/productview.aspx

I think I can thread it directly to the atik so the filters will be nice and close.
Now which LRGB's and NB's to choose...

Goran.

[antimorris]

I use the 314L+ with 1.25" filters. It's a small chip and the 1.25" are perfectly fine. I am currently using the Atik electronic filter wheel, not the Orion, but regardless of the model of filter wheel, no problem at all with the 1.25" filters.

You'll be happy with the 314L+, it's a great little camera. I have enjoyed mine for a few years now.

[PRejto]

Hi,

I think you just might want to read through these posts!

http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=126274

http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/476528-bloated-stars-with-my-tec140trius/page-2#entry6225162

Whilst you are going to image with the ICX285 it is still a very sensitive chip in blue and you may see similar results to mine using the Sony 694 chip. I would strongly consider looking for a red filter that does not go down as far as 380 nm (the Baader). The Astrodons cut at 400 nm (better, but for me not nearly good enough). Even at 410 nm with a Hutech IDAS filter there is still blue fringing though it is much improved over the Baader without any help. Astronomiks is working on a filter set that will address this very issue with these sorts of cameras on a refractor. I'm sure you don't want to wait, but forewarned is forearmed. Good luck!

Peter

[kosh]

Thanks Anna,
I have picked up the Orion Nautilus 7 position motorised wheel. Aside from the price difference, ( The Atik EFW is a couple hundred more expensive i think) but it also runs power from the USB which saved me using yet another power lead. :)
On the down side, I don't think Artemis capture likes playing with other makes… Nevermind, I'm looking into AstroArt v5 for the whole capture/process flow anyway if not nebulosity/phd.



Thanks for the heads up Peter, I bought a set set of Astronomik type2 LRGB's in the 1.25' a few weeks ago now. I'm not sure if i'll have the same issue as you ( and others ) but I suppose when imaging with the frac it may be unavoidable so I am a bit concerned. :(
This shouldn't be an issue with the newt though right?

[antimorris]

Yeah I don't use Artemis Capture very often for that same reason although I went with the Atik EFW mainly as I already had the Atik Camera and before the EFW I had the MFW from Atik so already had the adapters and didn't want to have to sort out new ones. Also, having the option to run Capture if I am having problems with other programs in the middle of the night has been helpful on occasion. I will occasionally use Nebulosity/PHD and have lately been using Maxim DL to run everything. I hear good things about AstroArt, I have just never tried it.

[PRejto]

Goran,

I don't think you will have any "blue" issue with your newt. But, you might with the refractor. The Hutech IDAS does a pretty good job of helping blue focus so that's an option but at a ~35-40% exposure penalty. The Baader Fringe Killer might be a better option if you don't need any light pollution help in R & G. I've put a 2" filter wheel in front of my SX wheel so that I can get rid of the UV/blue filter for R & G. I do need the filter for luminance as well. Hopefully you will find this unnecessary. Please let me know how it turns out.

Peter