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johnnyt123
05-06-2013, 03:51 PM
Hi Guys...

As some of you may have been reading, I am looking at making my telescope setup fully electronic.
I have come up with this Wireless configuration.
I would love your feedback, comments or any other suggestions before i embark on this project.

Thanks

John

DavidTrap
05-06-2013, 08:10 PM
Will be interested to hear if the wireless link to the USB Server works? Do you know if the USB server will cope with an additional hub plugged into it??

I've no personal experience with those, but understand they can be temperamental. Also, does the USB server run at USB 2 or 1 speeds??

DT

RobF
05-06-2013, 08:14 PM
Perhaps use EQMOD pulse guiding and do away with the GPUSB to save a USB port.

What's your ultimate goal?
How far is distance from scope to PC?

johnnyt123
06-06-2013, 12:33 AM
My ultimate goal is to have the scope set up in the backyard and me sitting inside at my pc seeing where the scope is pointed and watching it take deep sky images.

The distance is about 20m.

I found this cool piece of tech. It's a wireless 4 port USB hub by iogear.
It combines a USB server with a wireless router.

mswhin63
06-06-2013, 12:48 AM
I am not sure but I feel this hub only operates with certain products like Hard Drives etc. I think I have the same model already and ended up using it only for remote hard drives. Mine also has wireless connectivity. I think it is a client server not a host server.

While typing, i found it, mine is an Iomega iConnect. so maybe the one you found might work but be careful as it maybe limited to certain device connected to it.

johnnyt123
06-06-2013, 10:00 AM
Hi Malcolm.

I read the iogear website regarding the wireless USB hub i mentioned and they dont say anything about any device limitations.

But i will let you know how it all goes

John

RobF
06-06-2013, 04:05 PM
I use 2 of these (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=XC4120) to control my rig from inside. Fortunate that the rig is within about 12metres away, however I think you can chain two or more. One to a 4 port unpowered hub (guider, mount, focus control, DSLR sometimes), the other straight to my QHY9. Don't like leaving the lappy outside. Can run the lappy downstairs by VNC from desktop upstairs when I'm really being lazy.

Very reliable.

Starblazer99
06-06-2013, 05:33 PM
I’ll be interested to see if it works but it states under requirements on the web site * Some USB devices require a direct connection for optimum performance, I use aIcron 2200 series USB to Cat5 Extender 4port at
(480 Mb/s)
up to 100 meters of cat 5 can be used no driver disk needed I run 2 sbig cameras scope control and moonlight focuser, has a hefty power supply can run a unpowered hub if needed and I have never had it crash out on me.

DannyV
07-06-2013, 09:27 AM
Hi John,
I'm remote controlling everything, but I found the following problems
. Usb2 gets overloaded, particularly with image transfer
. Canon DSLR locks up over 10 metres (even over the jacar amplified extension), I had to run the usb via a shielded LAN (cat 5e) cable (see below)
. I got errors from the hand piece (I wanted the hand piece inside) so I wired the hand piece cable to a LAN cable (wire to wire - no swapping) then used the rs232 locally to the handpiece inside - via a 6w to 6w adapter.
. I wired a remote switch inside to turn the power on/off to the mount
. I wired a 12v to 5v converter into my control box to power my usb hubs ( I chained 2 powered hubs in series)
. I also made a higher current 12v to 8v converter for my canon camera, with a remote switch to allow me to switch it off if it locks up.
. I used usb to RJ45 adapters to wire the 10 metres, because I was getting errors with plain usb cable - even with extender amps built in.
. I have several video cameras - all wired in video cable - then via a security system to switch the channel - so I can see the spotter, the W.O. and the main scope all at once).
. moonlite focuser is run via rs232 to rj45 connectors and a lan cable.

All cables on the mount are very thin for three metres from my control box to a connector box, then wire in normal cables back inside.

I have a remote control 4 channel (soon to be upgraded to 9ch) switch to control 12 v things like Canon power supply, demister, camera cooler etc


PS: I'm working to add arduino control, then I can control over the wifi to my mac, but this is a work in progress.

mswhin63
07-06-2013, 10:11 AM
I have a Version 2 Bluetooth that has approx 100m range so I would prefer my signalling to go through that method but imaging to go through a non critical method like WiFi. I will be a work in progress but halted till I complete my exams at uni. I only have a short break so I may not have enough time to complete the project till it goes on hold again. I at least hope to try the iOmega device and see how that goes, I was though keeping my eye on another device but as happens in the past so many new products are mentioned and failed to deliver, so I am not going to say what it is till I can confirm its operation. My signalling though is 100% operational, I just want my video and Canon to be accessible.

BTW I had already used remote terminal software for an onsite PC but I want to keep power low and the unfortunate by product is slow PC operation.

DavidNg
07-06-2013, 10:15 AM
Hi John,

May be worthwhile to consider some sort of weather sensor when you are in your room comfort? wouldn't want to risk all your effort in a flash shower/rain?

Cheers,
David

johnnyt123
08-06-2013, 02:15 AM
Hi again everyone

I am going to try this out on the coming long weekend.
I have to unused 54mb wireless routers that I will bridge.
Hopefully the wireless connection can be established and be stable.
If remote wireless control and cameras operate well I will purchase 2 n routers for a better wireless connection.

I will keep you all updated on how it goes.

Hope u all have a great long weekend.

Ps David a weather sensor would,be a smart and cheap insurance policy!!!

mswhin63
08-06-2013, 09:16 PM
I'm on a study break so I may also test the the iOmega with the camera.

g__day
09-06-2013, 11:58 AM
I have never managed to get USB cameras to connect and have WIndows load the correct drivers unless they are wired directly or through active USB extension cables into a PC. Whenever I introduced wireless or USB over IP cables - I couldn't get it to work for me.

I ended up connecting all my gear to a PC then slaved this to a remote PC (running Cat 6 cable everywhere. I run VNC to control everything (though I hear RadAdmin is better).

Keen to hear how your design works!

mswhin63
09-06-2013, 06:26 PM
Yes I have a tendency to agree with you, most USB remote hubs are specifically for generic equipment. Mostly hard drives with some printers

Tandum
09-06-2013, 06:52 PM
I simply remote connect to a small pc in the dome which runs everything. The microwave here interrupts the wireless link and I have to wait for it to stop running before I can reconnect. If something like that happened in this setup everything would crash and probably require a reboot.

mswhin63
10-06-2013, 12:28 AM
Just an update, the iOmega iConnect failed to transfer camera data. It does have a media server though so there are option that could be utilised but not in my situation.

johnnyt123
10-06-2013, 12:36 PM
Here is an update..

I wired up my scope yesterday and it wasnt as straight forward as i thought.

I had a 10 port powered USB hub that managed 2 USB to serial adaptors, the ORION USB CCD Imager and the DMK51.

It all worked when i had the hub directly connected to PC but when i had a USB to ethernet cable extension placed the CCD imagers would not work but the serials devices continued to work. Even with a 1m ethernet extender cable installed it would not work.

The wireless attempt was even worse.
The devices were discovered on the network but could not be negotiated with. Kept getting unknown errors and operation time outs...

So in conclusion i would have to go with what Rally mentioned and place a dedicated PC like Fit-PC that handles all the telescope devices and can be controlled remotely through a program like VNC Viewer..

I still need to find myself a USB 7 Position filterwheel to have the setup complete.

I Will keep you posted on how things progress.

Take care everyone..

John

DannyV
10-06-2013, 01:06 PM
Hi John,

All my focus and other controllers including Canon Eos work ok on two jacar USB to RJ45 adapters, and 10m of cat 5 in between.

What I did notice was that the Canon was fussy about hubs, I went through a 10 way, a 7 way and settled on two 4 ways from office works (Belcan) I wired these in series and the Canon was happy.

PS: The problem only showed up when connected via the 10m extension cable - it usually worked ok if the hub was plugged in directly to the computer.


I suggest You try swapping hubs, I think the more expensive ones are better.

mswhin63
10-06-2013, 03:49 PM
I too noticed the Canon was a bit fussy, but I detected the issue was mainly the original cable. If an after market one was used then it most of the time failed. Went back to the original and it was smooth as silk :thumbsup:, it took me a while but managed to get a good after-market USB cable to replace the original but it is now working even on my 10 port el-cheapo hub.

DannyV
10-06-2013, 11:25 PM
John,
Would you like me to test my SBIG STi CCD via my system?

I havent got around to plugging that in yet. My setup is currently on a test trolly while I try to get everything going again.
I believe it will behave like the Canon.

johnnyt123
10-06-2013, 11:49 PM
Danny it seems like the Orion deep sky ccd doesn't like being on a hub and neither does the dmk51. The serial adapters don't seem to mind it.
The SBig Sti might work. That's a great guide camera btw Danny.

I am in the process of building a mini itx pc which has more than adequate USB ports and can manage the devices. It's the sensible way to do this.

I will post some pics up when they become available.

John.

Starblazer99
11-06-2013, 09:22 AM
I have tested the SBIG STI on a Jaycar USB to RJ45 extender had problem with the film wear loading, has something to do with the driver the extender uses , but works well on their usb extender cables but the joiner booster in the middle of the 20 meter cable is not water proof and needs sealing.

DannyV
11-06-2013, 09:44 AM
Hi Brian,
the adapters I used were these:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=XC4884

and required no drivers, in fact they had no active components.
Cheers!
Danny

Starblazer99
11-06-2013, 10:01 AM
The version that you are using is USB 1.1 the one I was trying was USB 2 uses separate power supply and drivers , the STI needs USB 2 to run http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=XC4923&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=1044#6 and it doesent work with the sti

DannyV
11-06-2013, 05:16 PM
Guys, Just for a test,
I've just tested my SBIG-Sti CCD camera via the Jcar USB 1.1 Adapter http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=XC4884 (No drivers) with NO hub over 10 metres and it works a treat.
If I put a Hub on it, It fails, So I'll have to run another cable just for this camera, so - what's one more cable :shrug: - I'll use the one that Brian suggested - I've got them spare.

(piky was in the process of re-cabling)

Jon
12-06-2013, 03:19 AM
Grab an old laptop you are happy to leave outside.

I use a freeware app called "TeamViewer" to remote-control it. Works a dream from PC and iPad.