I'm just trying out both the Sky-90 and its f/4.5 reducer/flattener for the first time photographically. I also now have a 40D, so this combination is a first for me. I'm mid-collimation on the Sky-90 as it has been way out since I got it some time ago. It's getting better as I go....slowly. At least the FOV is perfect for things such as this pair, and the Rosette, which I'll try for this weekend. It's just good to be imaging again!
I'll get around to trying the QHY-9 on the Sky-90, but need to sort the back-focus distance hardware equation first. Not sure how I'm going to position the sensor 72.2mm away from the rear flange step on the reducer through the filter wheel. Oh well.. time to start scouring the user groups for attachments.
This full-crop pairing of M20 and M8 is a quick muck-around to check out the 40D. 4 x 300 sec subs at ISO400. No darks. Quick manual stack in PS CS4. I'll get a pile more data tonight and see what happens. I'll also take a dark or two. LOL!
It's certainly different to the old 350D to use in the dark. I'm starting to learn the buttons and various functions by feel, so it's proving to be a good camera so far. I'm even thinking of buying a couple of zooms for it so that I can use it terrestrially too. Wow.. that coming from a Nikon man...
Cheers narnyrama... always ready to help out You should absolutely fly with your TSA102 and modded 40D. Can't wait to give a it a burl with you. Looking forward to seeing what your more sensitive camera does in relation to my less sensitive one, but with my scope being quite fast at f/4.5 vs. yours at f/6.3 or thereabouts with the reducer fitted.
Thanks too Trevor - and yes, it's been a little while.
Yes, the 40D is completely stock. I set white balance to incandescent and that's it. I have a dozen or more Nikon lenses, so I usually shoot Nikon terrestrially. I'm coming around to the 40D as a daytime camera, and have bought a cheap 18-55 IS kit lens to give it a go. I may have to get a couple of better lenses as time goes on. A mate of mine has a bagful if L-series stuff, so I may have to quietly borrow it one day.
THe Tak was out of whack. I had horrific seagulls for ages. John Glossop (JohnG) told me how to collimate the Sky-90 with a straight cheshire, and I've done as well as I can without hooking it up to an SBIG CCD and CCDinspector to tune it in real time. One day. It's OK for the moment.
You did a good job of collimating it now then. You can also call Art at Texas Nautical and they'll tell you what to do as well. A Tak collimating scope may be useful.
I used to set white balance to bright sunlight. Incandescent may put a hue on your image as it adjusts for the temperature of incandescent lights. If you take images in RAW you can flick through the various white balances and see what affect it has on the image.
Another way to set white point is to get an 18% photographic grey card and take a shot at midday in bright sunlight. Then set white balance to use that image as a custom white balance. That was the best way when the camera is modded. But it may work well for a stock camera as well.
LOL!You're right Greg - it's daylight. The icon for daylight on the 40D looks like the incandescent bulb icon on my Nikon - a sphere will rays emanating outwards. It certainly is the most neutral that I've tried. I run a set of Vortex "Warm Cards" - one of which is Kodak 18%: http://www.warmcards.com/WC_PHOTO.html
Yep - A Tak collimating scope is something I think I'll need one day soon. I have plans to buy another 102 or 120 soon, and would like to know that I can adjust it if needed.
40D? I had look at the dictionary to find a word to describe it and, at the same time, to improve my english. I found: betrayal, disloyalty, treason, faithlessness, sedition, rebellion, mutiny, subversion.
Please do not by a Minolta, I do not think they are any words left.