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  #21  
Old 10-09-2014, 10:06 PM
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DavidTrap (David)
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Greg - I think you'll find the aperture rings on the Fuji lenses are merely a selector switch, rather than a mechanical linkage that adjusts the aperture diaphragm.

Haven't tried the Canon trick of depth of field preview while removing a lens from the body - don't think there is such a button on my X-E2.

I did get some improvement by using a 1mm shim to adjust the flange to sensor distance with my 14-24, but there was still a lot of distortion in the corners.

DT
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2014, 08:15 PM
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Spookyer (Brett)
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Yeah, I experimented with more lenses including primes like the 50mm 1.4 that does have an aperture ring. My conclusions are that the STT8300 is not really suitable to use with DSLR lenses. There is nothing wrong with my lenses, they work fine on a DSLR. My STT8300 works fine with my scope. But they don't work fine together. I got some average sort of results with some work but I would guess the spacings and angles are not quite right, as a result it is hard to focus and even stepping down the lenses a fair bit you don't get great results.

A bit disappointing as I bought the recommended stuff to use lenses with the CCD but looks like I will be back to the CCD on the scope and if I want to do widefields it will have to be with the lenses on the DSLR.

Thanks all for your comments and suggestions.

Brett
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  #23  
Old 12-09-2014, 08:58 AM
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alocky (Andrew lockwood)
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The odd thing is the 8300 chip is smaller than a full frame sensor, and it's a flat surface , and it's got larger pixels than a D800, so it has to be a spacing or tilt problem since that is the only difference there could be between the systems.
Right? Or am I missing something?
My point being, in that case you have something that was not fit for purpose as supplied and it should be something the vendor would be obliged to resolve?
Cheers,
Andrew.
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  #24  
Old 13-09-2014, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidTrap View Post
Greg - I think you'll find the aperture rings on the Fuji lenses are merely a selector switch, rather than a mechanical linkage that adjusts the aperture diaphragm.

Haven't tried the Canon trick of depth of field preview while removing a lens from the body - don't think there is such a button on my X-E2.

I did get some improvement by using a 1mm shim to adjust the flange to sensor distance with my 14-24, but there was still a lot of distortion in the corners.

DT
Yes you are abosolutely right. I just went and checked. I did not know that.

Perhaps exposure lock then release the lens may leave it at the last selected aperture?

Greg.
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  #25  
Old 13-09-2014, 08:06 PM
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gregbradley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyer View Post
Yeah, I experimented with more lenses including primes like the 50mm 1.4 that does have an aperture ring. My conclusions are that the STT8300 is not really suitable to use with DSLR lenses. There is nothing wrong with my lenses, they work fine on a DSLR. My STT8300 works fine with my scope. But they don't work fine together. I got some average sort of results with some work but I would guess the spacings and angles are not quite right, as a result it is hard to focus and even stepping down the lenses a fair bit you don't get great results.

A bit disappointing as I bought the recommended stuff to use lenses with the CCD but looks like I will be back to the CCD on the scope and if I want to do widefields it will have to be with the lenses on the DSLR.

Thanks all for your comments and suggestions.

Brett
I have a FLI Microline 8300 and the Nikon adapter that fits in the filter wheel. I'll try that out at some point.

Martin Pugh did some widefields with an SBIG8300 camera and lenses. Have a look at his site to see which lens he used.

Greg.
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  #26  
Old 15-09-2014, 06:55 AM
Garbz (Chris)
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Are you sure you have the spacing exactly right? I've experienced similar on my Nikon adapters. It's not sufficient to be in the focal range, but rather if your lens isn't focusing very close to it's infinity mark then it makes things much worse around the image. This is worse on wide angle lenses than telephotos in my experience.

If you have the spacing right then it likely really is just a sharpness issue. I typically shoot at f/4
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