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  #21  
Old 07-08-2020, 09:17 AM
Stefan Buda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonius View Post
I'm sure you guys must have thought of this, but you couldnt use one of those focuser tilt rings you get for RC scopes, could you?


Markus
Yes it would work but it's not worth the trouble considering that we are talking about a tilt, coming from the focuser, of something like 15 microns across the sensor. I bet the sensor alignment in the camera is not much better than that.
Not a worry considering that the theoretical depth of focus is well over 40 microns at f/7.7
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2020, 04:06 PM
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Sunfish (Ray)
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Thanks to your posts Stefan I managed to find an led illumination method for for my collimation telescope project . Managed to collimate my Tak. Not perfect but much better and i can do another round after a star test.

Better do you think or is there something I am missing?

Not too hard with only one lense cell i suppose. The LED does change the world.

After and before images along with my T2 lense collimator frankenscope and reticle eyepiece projection.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2020, 08:12 AM
Stefan Buda
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Great work. It definitely looks better. These collimators should be more common.
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  #24  
Old 04-11-2020, 01:03 PM
Joanna (Lisa)
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thanks,i Managed to collimate my Tak. Not perfect but much better and i can do another round after a star test. the optical axis must go through the center of the corrector group.
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  #25  
Old 04-11-2020, 04:24 PM
garymck (Gary)
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Any chance you give details of how to make one of these collimators?
Cheers
Gary
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  #26  
Old 11-11-2020, 12:59 PM
Stefan Buda
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Do you have access to a lathe and a milling machine?
If you do, I can give you some guidelines.
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  #27  
Old 11-11-2020, 01:40 PM
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tempestwizz (Brian)
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I too would be interested in fabricating one of these devices. I have access to a lathe and crude milling equipment. I would like to test/confirm my efforts at collimation of my Tak TOA130 were effective. My scope is located in remote Laos, and the concept of shipping is daunting.
Unfortunately, at the moment I’m in Australia, waiting for the opportunity to return to wife and family in Laos, but on my return I would like to try this out.
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  #28  
Old 11-11-2020, 04:13 PM
garymck (Gary)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan Buda View Post
Do you have access to a lathe and a milling machine?
If you do, I can give you some guidelines.
Hi Stefan,
I have a Mill and a Lathe, as well as a cnc router.

cheers
Gary
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  #29  
Old 13-11-2020, 09:31 AM
Stefan Buda
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Perfect, but I'm going through a bit of a hectic time. I'll get back with some guidelines in a few days.
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  #30  
Old 13-11-2020, 09:34 AM
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I have all the equipment too and am following this with interest.
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  #31  
Old 14-11-2020, 10:10 AM
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If you have a 75mm focuser and a simple doublet or perhaps a triplet and can make a plate which screws into the focuser with a small hole in the centre with three equally spaced leds on the back as far apart as practical, that can work. That is what I used.

Will only work with a big 75 mm focuser other wise the reflected separation is too small to see without adding the collimating scope lenses as Tak and Grzybowski do. Stefan could make them easily and you could all buy one.

We could call it the Buda collimator.

I only added the t2 lense and projection reticle spacer in a 2inch eyepiece clamp to confirm the result by taking the photos.
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  #32  
Old 16-11-2020, 10:10 AM
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Like this worked for me for an obvious correction on a doublet. Three LED on the back of a cheap 72mm to t2 adapter. Maybe 50mm would work. I used an adapted camping light but you can buy a three led disk online.

The spacing of the led needs to be at least 20mm centre to centre to give enough separation for naked eye adjustment viewing through a 5mm hole in the centre.

You can also use an eyepiece projection tube and two old stacked Plossl to get focus for a closer view.
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  #33  
Old 25-11-2020, 07:27 PM
Stefan Buda
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Sorry for the delayed response. Among other things I had to deal with a HDD crash on my main PC. Slowly restoring all my apps now.

I'll let the photos do the explaining. The most difficult thing was getting the power cable to the LEDs go through the housing in a neat way.
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  #34  
Old 26-11-2020, 11:46 AM
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Hi Stefan, as you say pictures are worth lots of words. Combined with the pic from your first post on the topic, it makes sense to me now, and quite do-able.

Would I be correct in assuming that a wider spacing of the lens , ie larger diameter of the ring of leds, would improve resolution? At first glance,(and specifically for my TOA 130) I think I could fit the leds into a 2.7" extension tube Ive made already. That would allow me to space them a bit wider than the 2" at the focuser.
Also, I'm assuming the finer the LEDs, the better the resolution? Earlier, Ive used a fibre cable to work as an artificial star. This gives a star diameter of about 50 microns. Maybe i could insert glass fibres instead of LEDs and feed with a laser? I think TOSLink plastic fibre would not be much of an improvement over mini LEDs. Another also is that maybe the fibre idea would not be bright enough to reflect back of all the surfaces of a triplet?

Thanks for the information in any case. Brian
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